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The browser does if you turn the phone sideways
Thanks Mike, that's good to know!
The browser does if you turn the phone sideways
Thanks Mike, that's good to know!
Thanks Mike, that's good to know!
Psst... I think you mean Kevin...
I don't know, Gary. Scott seemed pretty confident when he made the introduction...
Having a hard time keeping high tune free spooling. Switched carb, drilled jet, raised metering lever. A new line and filter is on its way.
I have that exact same problem with my 10mm 044 that has an old Zama. hold it wide open and if it is tuned above 13500 it four strokes nice and then starts to creap into higher rpm's
There is something not right with my 10mm. When I start it on high ide it does not keep a constant rpm but increases in a hurry until it hits WOT rpms. When I hold it at WOT it 'steps up' in rpms every couple seconds for a total 3-4 times until it is barely four stroking then sits there. I increased the flow of the tank vent and the high idle starting issue more or less went away. The WOT creep is still there but a little better. I am going to put a new fuel filter in it next week and see what that does, I have never swapped out the filter since I bought the saw.Sorry, I'm late on this thread. Anyway, this issue where you hold it on WOT and after four-stroking briefly it then creeps higher (think my hybrid may do that at times).
What it's telling me is that at first its 4-stroking since, as usual, the F/A is rich enough for it to miss every other stroke. Then after a few seconds the chamber rises in temperature sufficiently for the cycle, that was previously missed, to now burn completely/or least better, hence generate more torque, revs rise etc...
Hmm.... maybe somethings "not right" with your saw, Kyle. I would not know.There is something not right with my 10mm. When I start it on high ide it does not keep a constant rpm but increases in a hurry until it hits WOT rpms. When I hold it at WOT it 'steps up' in rpms every couple seconds for a total 3-4 times until it is barely four stroking then sits there. I increased the flow of the tank vent and the high idle starting issue more or less went away. The WOT creep is still there but a little better. I am going to put a new fuel filter in it next week and see what that does, I have never swapped out the filter since I bought the saw.
Might have to drill the jet, this is common for ported saws in long cuts.Don't know where your post went @huskyboy but I have rebuilt the carb. Got the saw off Ebay from a guy in England who said he had not used the saw in about a year and it was hard starting. I rebuilt the carb, replaced the clutch springs and clutch bearing which had exploded and it started, idled and ran fine (except for this issue) after a little tuning. Only noticed this when I was making long cuts on a big oak log. Pick up body looked fresh and he said it had had a new fuel line about 18 months prior so I assumed the filter was ok. I am used to Huskies where the filter is not covered by pick up body...My intuition is telling me it is the filter, guess I could just take out the filter and see how it tunes with only the filter body or?
Can’t tune a saw with a bad clutch, good thing that’s sorted, I usually just start fresh and new lines carb kit/entire fuel system if I’m experiencing issues. Are the seals original ones?Don't know where your post went @huskyboy but I have rebuilt the carb. Got the saw off Ebay from a guy in England who said he had not used the saw in about a year and it was hard starting. I rebuilt the carb, replaced the clutch springs and clutch bearing which had exploded and it started, idled and ran fine (except for this issue) after a little tuning. Only noticed this when I was making long cuts on a big oak log. Pick up body looked fresh and he said it had had a new fuel line about 18 months prior so I assumed the filter was ok. I am used to Huskies where the filter is not covered by pick up body...My intuition is telling me it is the filter, guess I could just take out the filter and see how it tunes with only the filter body or?
Not my ported 044 just a 10mm with a dual port but I will keep my ears open when running the 12mm.Might have to drill the jet, this is common for ported saws in long cuts.
Original seals, I know, I know. Don't really want to put anymore money than I have to seeing as I have a ported 12mm and an 064, not to mention I rarely get a chance to cut anything over 24 inches, got more saws than sense or cents at the moment...Can’t tune a saw with a bad clutch, good thing that’s sorted, I usually just start fresh and new lines carb kit/entire fuel system if I’m experiencing issues. Are the seals original ones?
Cost probably less than 25$ for seals and a hour of your time.Original seals, I know, I know. Don't really want to put anymore money than I have to seeing as I have a ported 12mm and an 064, not to mention I rarely get a chance to cut anything over 24 inches, got more saws than sense or cents at the moment...
Pressure and vac test would be where I start then.
If the filter swap don't do it then that's what will be happening.Cost probably less than 25$ for seals and a hour of your time.
Is it better at getting to the max rev ceiling for 4-stroking at WOT now Kyle?Filter swap worked like a charm. Saw had the old style small orangish pickup body and foam filter, switched out to the larger black pickup body and solid filter. I ordered some of the foam filters that fit the newer black pickup body before I realized the solid filter came with the pickup bodies my dealer ordered. Are the foam filters inferior to the solid filters?