What oil is best? and what ratio?

[mrxlh]

I would love to spend a week with Dyno Joe testing the top oils “loaded” on his Dyno. The vibration data would show which oil keeps the bearings the quietest. There is a point of diminishing return, where more oil on the bearings doesn’t really change or reduce vibration. My gut feeling is the oils with greater viscosity won’t need to be any richer than 40:1. The lower viscosity oils would probably end up in the 25:1-32:1 range.

 

[thompsoncustom]

I would love to spend a week with Dyno Joe testing the top oils “loaded” on his Dyno. The vibration data would show which oil keeps the bearings the quietest. There is a point of diminishing return, where more oil on the bearings doesn’t really change or reduce vibration. My gut feeling is the oils with greater viscosity won’t need to be any richer than 40:1. The lower viscosity oils would probably end up in the 25:1-32:1 range.

I think it was dupont that did a study years ago that tested oil ratios vs power,wear, and smoke.

I believe 16 to 1 made the most power but 32 to 1 was ruled the best overall due to lower smoke/wear/fowling and only a little less power than 16 to 1.

 

[mrxlh]

I think it was dupont that did a study years ago that tested oil ratios vs power,wear, and smoke.

I believe 16 to 1 made the most power but 32 to 1 was ruled the best overall due to lower smoke/wear/fowling and only a little less power than 16 to 1.

Not looking for power, I’m interested in what is the best ratio to keep a bottom end alive. If you want a top end to live, learn to sharpen your chain. If you’re looking for more power, learn how to port…

If we are truly looking for the very best lubricant and ratio for OPE, reliability should be the benchmark. Lowest lifecycle operating costs with largest returns.

 

[Loony661]

Not looking for power, I’m interested in what is the best ratio to keep a bottom end alive. If you want a top end to live, learn to sharpen your chain. If you’re looking for more power, learn how to port…

If we are truly looking for the very best lubricant and ratio for OPE, reliability should be the benchmark. Lowest lifecycle operating costs with largest returns.

Well said.

 

[Mastermind]

Not looking for power, I’m interested in what is the best ratio to keep a bottom end alive. If you want a top end to live, learn to sharpen your chain. If you’re looking for more power, learn how to port…

If we are truly looking for the very best lubricant and ratio for OPE, reliability should be the benchmark. Lowest lifecycle operating costs with largest returns.

I'd say a poorly sharpened chain, or rakers too low have beat the pto bearings out of a great many saws.

 

[TreeLife]

I would love to spend a week with Dyno Joe testing the top oils “loaded” on his Dyno. The vibration data would show which oil keeps the bearings the quietest. There is a point of diminishing return, where more oil on the bearings doesn’t really change or reduce vibration. My gut feeling is the oils with greater viscosity won’t need to be any richer than 40:1. The lower viscosity oils would probably end up in the 25:1-32:1 range.

I would love to see genuine tests like this. It's my opinion there's some snake oil out there (pardon the pun).

 

[mrxlh]

I'd say a poorly sharpened chain, or rakers too low have beat the pto bearings out of a great many saws.

I’m in agreement, but most dull chains claim pistons and cylinders. I’m fairly certain we have established which oils have great add packs, but I’m not sure we have established the best “single viscosity” 2 stroke oil for rolling element bearings, and plated cylinders and piston rings…

 

[Mastermind]

I’m in agreement, but most dull chains claim pistons and cylinders. I’m fairly certain we have established which oils have great add packs, but I’m not sure we have established the best “single viscosity” 2 stroke oil for rolling element bearings, and plated cylinders and piston rings…

Dull chain equals overheating for sure.

 

[Powerstroke Cowboy]

I cut the rakers to low one time, and my poor 7901 would go from screaming through the cut to dead in its tracks with just a little to mutch pressure. The chain is worthless now.

That, had to be hard on everything on the PTO side, including the crankshaft.

 

[mrxlh]

The largest problem with 2 stroke oil, is published viscosity. Sure you can send a sample of each oil to a lab and PAY to obtain this info. However every other oil API certifies has to have the donut rating and viscosity on the label.

 

[Mastermind]

The largest problem with 2 stroke oil, is published viscosity. Sure you can send a sample of each oil to a lab and PAY to obtain this info. However every other oil API certifies has to have the donut rating and viscosity on the label.

I know from having experienced this.

Belray H1R at 32:1 works really well to protect a saw engine when milling or stumping. It is a thick oil...that's plain to see when pouring it.

BUT....

In a smallish autotune or mtronic unit, it hurts performance....not just a wee bit either. I was using H1R at 32:1 in everything...and Julian @Redbull661 told me that I was handicapping my saw by using it. Naturally, I thought he was nuts. So, I bought some Yamalube 2R (a much thinner oil) and tried it.

In a ported 562XP, just switching oil increased cut speed 35%.

I still use H1R in big saws that are being used for torturous activities. But my usual oil is Amsoil Dominator at 40:1

 

[TreeLife]

I know from having experienced this.

Belray H1R at 32:1 works really well to protect a saw engine when milling or stumping. It is a thick oil...that's plain to see when pouring it.

BUT....

In a smallish autotune or mtronic unit, it hurts performance....not just a wee bit either. I was using H1R at 32:1 in everything...and Julian @Redbull661 told me that I was handicapping my saw by using it. Naturally, I thought he was nuts. So, I bought some Yamalube 2R (a much thinner oil) and tried it.

In a ported 562XP, just switching oil increased cut speed 35%.

I still use H1R in big saws that are being used for torturous activities. But my usual oil is Amsoil Dominator at 40:1

It's interesting you said this, a local fellow I know who built high performance 2 stroke road bikes would say "wait til they figure out lesser and lighter oils make better power..." he wasn't wrong

 

[Loony661]

The largest problem with 2 stroke oil, is published viscosity. Sure you can send a sample of each oil to a lab and PAY to obtain this info. However every other oil API certifies has to have the donut rating and viscosity on the label.

Right on Amsoil’s website FYI, each oil they make has it’s data listed. This is a screenshot of Dominator 2 Stroke Racing Oil:

 

[Kiwioilboiler]

I know from having experienced this.

Belray H1R at 32:1 works really well to protect a saw engine when milling or stumping. It is a thick oil...that's plain to see when pouring it.

BUT....

In a smallish autotune or mtronic unit, it hurts performance....not just a wee bit either. I was using H1R at 32:1 in everything...and Julian @Redbull661 told me that I was handicapping my saw by using it. Naturally, I thought he was nuts. So, I bought some Yamalube 2R (a much thinner oil) and tried it.

In a ported 562XP, just switching oil increased cut speed 35%.

I still use H1R in big saws that are being used for torturous activities. But my usual oil is Amsoil Dominator at 40:1

Yamalube huh. Good times renaming that ay.

 

[Squareground3691]

Amsoil makes the best everything. Been a fan probably 25 years. First thing I do when I get a new car is replace all the fluids with Amsoil. No surprise they make the best 2 stroke oil too.

Yea , use it in all my mowers, compressors, power washer, etc

 

[qurotro]

Dominator is water thin. Saber is thicker.
Well, the caster is the thickest.

 

[Mastermind]

Dominator is water thin. Saber is thicker.
Well, the caster is the thickest.

Saber at 40:1 will foul plugs and leave drool behind if not tuned just right.

 

[rogue60]

Nothing is absolute.

I've cut with dull chains plenty of times sometimes ya got to do whatever it takes to finish what ya doing..
Run 25:1 mineral oil and have never blown a saw up even with red hot smoking chains lol
Will add I'm guilty as charged I never warm a saw up as soon as they will take throttle they warm up fine in the 1st cut and I always shut them straight off with no cool down idling no matter how hard the saw has worked. Yes I do everything wrong and still can't blow em up lol,


This dirty rotten thing was full of granite sand from sugar ants building nest in it. smoked .404 RS in no time wasn't worth stopping to sharpen would have to wait like 20min or more before I could touch the chain to sharpen anyway meh...

 

[Mastermind]

Nothing is absolute.

I've cut with dull chains plenty of times sometimes ya got to do whatever it takes to finish what ya doing..
Run 25:1 mineral oil and have never blown a saw up even with red hot smoking chains lol
Will add I'm guilty as charged I never warm a saw up as soon as they will take throttle they warm up fine in the 1st cut and I always shut them straight off with no cool down idling no matter how hard the saw has worked. Yes I do everything wrong and still can't blow em up lol,


This dirty rotten thing was full of granite sand from sugar ants building nest in it. smoked .404 RS in no time wasn't worth stopping to sharpen would have to wait like 20min or more before I could touch the chain to sharpen anyway meh...

Torture tests.

 

[huskihl]

I dunno. Seems to me Ultra actually thermal coats the entire combustion chamber and exhaust/muffler making it a more thermally efficient. People pay lots of money to have their pistons, heads, headers, etc. coated. Maybe it's ahead of its time?

Yeah that’s it