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Who makes this chain

Junk Meister

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I made an attempt to assist earlier in this thread. It appears you you already had your answers.
So if you know they use the Oregon SKUs, I will assume that an intellect like "yerself" can figger out what you want confirmed.
What I can't Figger Is why ask a question if you Know the answer.
It is Obvious to me that many people buy this style chain or they wouldn't make so much of it.
They make so much of it 'Cuz so many people discard it in its' prime.
I use it when in iron, rock, wire ETC. Sometimes I file it, sometimes it gets tossed. That is the Frugal way to get it off my peg board.
 

AVB

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I made an attempt to assist earlier in this thread. It appears you you already had your answers.
So if you know they use the Oregon SKUs, I will assume that an intellect like "yerself" can figger out what you want confirmed.
What I can't Figger Is why ask a question if you Know the answer.
It is Obvious to me that many people buy this style chain or they wouldn't make so much of it.
They make so much of it 'Cuz so many people discard it in its' prime.
I use it when in iron, rock, wire ETC. Sometimes I file it, sometimes it gets tossed. That is the Frugal way to get it off my peg board.
Understand this...When I post the initially I DID NOT KNOW the answer and actually still don't have an answer as to who makes that particular chain.

But I am surfing the net looking and finding a lot of other items to add to the inventory for the shop. None of which was the actual chain but I did find supposedly one my distributors has a similar chain. The problem they apparently they have it only in loops. Which will work on a break and mend level. OF course I will have to order one loop to verify the style but I commit to buying 20+ loops.

One of the additions will be a 25 ft spool of 1/4 0.050 chain. I also found a vendor selling the TriLink 3/8lp 0.050 for less than half of what Stens wants for the same chain so now I can make the profit if I want to.

So basically I was trying to save myself a lot research time on this end. Maybe someone over on the Arboristsite has an answer. That is my next stop asking the same question. At least it is my off season so I have plenty time to do the research though I rather be researching for service manuals and helping others.

This is my last post on this subject...Have fun posting away.
 

bogieboy

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Let's see...

The receiving end is tuned to particular frequency, then the IF section of particular bandwidth is used to mixed with incoming frequency, this separates the carrier wave, leaving only the audio section in the case of audio radios. Same thing happen with Television except there are multiple IF sections for the vertical, horizontal, and audio. Now with digital signals is the same to a point then things changes. It become similar to receiving two CW frequencies on the same carrier wave. With digital format the amount info that can be pack in the same bandwidth can be much greater. Otherwords a lot much more info can be sent in a much tighter bandwidth thus creating much better use of assigned spectrum width. Even with CW we can tighten up the IF section to a much better bandwidth to reject more noise to make the receive able to reject signals outside the desired one. This is why I have a 100hz bandwidth receiver for CW instead of the standard 500 hz version and even my old CB has a 3000 hz bandwidth IF section instead of the wider one. Now this does tuning a lot more sensitive to frequency shifts but I learned to deal with it.

And there multiple ways to modulate the signals too. Some of which are AM, FM, CW, and PW and those carriers can carry at least two information channels. An example is SSB. With AM there is a lower and upper single side bands which allow us the be one SSB while another party is on the other and no interference except when there a full AM signal which screws both sub bands because it has both.

General Class licensed. I do need to go far the Extra class since they dropped the 20 wpm CW requirement. But I am happy with bandwidth I have now.
I was reading thru this thinking "tell me youre H.A.M. licensed without telling me your licensed"..... and then i got the the part where you said you were 🤣

Currently gmrs licensed and studying for the tech/general BTW....
 

JT Sutton/candycane

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Who makes this 3/8LP .050? I am looking to buy a 100' roll if I can find reasonable. My vendor only appears to sale in cut loops which I am not going to buy even length loop just to have it in stock when I can break and mend chains on demand.
View attachment 479909
What us the exact name and number of this chain
 

AVB

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Okay here is one for you guys. I brought two replacement anvils for my Woodland Pro Rivet Spinner. Right of the package one would fit and other one didn't. Both looked identical. I have resolved the problem but what could cause the problem? And it was not burrs from dinging around. And flats calipered the same spec.

I would like to see your guesses.
 
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EFSM

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Okay here is one for you guys. I brought two replacement anvils for my Woodland Pro Rivet Spinner. Right of the package one would fit and other one didn't. Both looked identical. I have resolved the problem but what could cause the problem? And it was not burrs from dinging around. And flats calipered the same spec.

I would like to see your guesses.
You’re saying it wouldn’t fit inside the hex?
 

Wilhelm

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The corners weren't knocked down sufficiently on the one that didn't fit.

images.jpeg

As such measured flat-2-flat One would get the same dimensions, but not when measured corner-2-corner.
 

Wilhelm

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Damn, those could be made out of CR-V allen wrenches.

What do they measure foat to flat?

I think mine don't look like that, Oregon spinner.
 

AVB

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Wilhelm, You won the Quippy doll. When weren't knock down they measured .002+. I don't remember the flat dimension right now

BTW the Anvil picture is for an Oregon Rivet Spinner. The Woodland Pro looks like this.
1769642674845.png
And they are not interchangeable per Baileys as I asked them about that.
 

lehman live edge slab

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Heck if I got to use Oregon low kickback style I just go with TriLink @ $166 / 100' and order 10 ea of the Rotary 7221062 loops @ $11.41 ea. , Retail $19 ea. On the Rotary 7221062 I'll just break and mend when I need few DLs. Hence I can do 45% GPMU on the TriLink and still be below the cost of the Oregon chain and save the customer half his normal costs.

BTW I personally know the TriLink is very good chain. I have sold a lot of it over the last 15 yrs. But I was just needing the guard strap version for personal use and some pole saws chain replacements.
Personally tri link is the worst chain I’ve used,
Streched horrible and had very inconsistent tooth hardness. Some would wreck the file teeth and others were like butter. If your buying an overseas chain the duke stuff seems good and being Chris is on here you can even give him some feedback.
 

Wilhelm

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Personally tri link is the worst chain I’ve used,
Streched horrible and had very inconsistent tooth hardness. Some would wreck the file teeth and others were like butter. If your buying an overseas chain the duke stuff seems good and being Chris is on here you can even give him some feedback.
Same here regarding TriLink chain.

Two out of five snapped on me, a third I noticed a broken tiestrap while sharpening and scrapped it, the remaining two I used only till 1/4 life left then scrapped them too.
Semi and full chisel 3/8".

Maybe newer production is better.
I couldn't care less as I have a fair spare chain supply by now buying up brand name B&C lots to last me for decades.
 

Wilhelm

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Wilhelm, You won the Quippy doll. When weren't knock down they measured .002+. I don't remember the flat dimension right now

BTW the Anvil picture is for an Oregon Rivet Spinner. The Woodland Pro looks like this.
View attachment 481101
And they are not interchangeable per Baileys as I asked them about that.
Yeah, I encountered that milled allen to hex socket fitment issue making my clutch removal tools (they aparently did not fit SnapOn sockets).
I since added a circular milling path to all programs to knock down the corners after the hexagon is milled.

I gotta check my Oregon spinner.
New project on the draving board! :thumbsup:

Do You need my shipping info for the Quippy doll? :p
 

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See actually experience does help sometime. It is like something you ran into years ago may not happen for years then suddenly pop up working a completely different equipment. I have had it to happen to me as I traded trade fields due necessity. I was over qualified when I was layoff and no would hire me so I had to find a new line of work.

Wilhelm, just got to shop the flats are .3115. Of you divide by 2 for centering.

As you found nearly all tools and hardware has there radius at the edge of the hexes or any other tool that has corners. It probably has to do the way casting works.

Basically on the tool here they did a double hex with the larger one for knocking off the sharp corners but rounding works too.

Now for as the Span-On tools they probably removed sharp edge or open up the corners so the tool drives on the flats (flank drive) instead of the corners. This would help to stop the rounding of corners when removing struck fasteners.
 
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