Who makes this chain

[EFSM]

I hate chains with those bumpers as I run my chains until I start loosing cutters. The rakers would end up lower than the bumpers

This 100%

 

[Sloughfoot]

3 loops of dull chain came with an old saw I bought last summer. Was going to use them and noticed they had those bumpers. They're being turned into Buicks or something now.

 

[AVB]

You guys don't how to sharpen them apparently but that okay as some us also have ugly kids. All of mine have feathers; all 50 of them. From gorgeous to damn right ugly.

Anyway I will use them for the purpose I intend them for as I have ordered 10 62 dl chain loops along with a 100 ft spool of TriLink chain for those that don't do plunge cuts. I do do plunge cuts on 3 ft or higher diameter wood blocks to insert wedges for splitting. I had a guy with 36 ton splitter was going show me up on 5 ft diameter blocks. The thing just stalled out while the block I splitting broke in half after 4 wedges were drove in. The guy was just cussing the splitter as he left.

Just glad I didn't order the TriLink or Sabre from Stens. Either one would cost more than twice I just paid for the TriLink.

 

[Wilhelm]

3 loops of dull chain came with an old saw I bought last summer. Was going to use them and noticed they had those bumpers. They're being turned into Buicks or something now.

Those bumpers can be ground down/off easy enough.
Just saying.

 

[singinwoodwackr]

Okay guys I just buy some of the loops then Break and Mend as needed but I had preferred not to as loops usually cost more per DL. I did get it down to 0.184 per DL.

Many eBay sellers that sell loops will sell you a roll. Just contact them.

 

[Sloughfoot]

You guys don't how to sharpen them apparently but that okay as some us also have ugly kids. All of mine have feathers; all 50 of them. From gorgeous to damn right ugly.

I don't even know how a transistor radio works.

 

[AVB]

Let's see...

The receiving end is tuned to particular frequency, then the IF section of particular bandwidth is used to mixed with incoming frequency, this separates the carrier wave, leaving only the audio section in the case of audio radios. Same thing happen with Television except there are multiple IF sections for the vertical, horizontal, and audio. Now with digital signals is the same to a point then things changes. It become similar to receiving two CW frequencies on the same carrier wave. With digital format the amount info that can be pack in the same bandwidth can be much greater. Otherwords a lot much more info can be sent in a much tighter bandwidth thus creating much better use of assigned spectrum width. Even with CW we can tighten up the IF section to a much better bandwidth to reject more noise to make the receive able to reject signals outside the desired one. This is why I have a 100hz bandwidth receiver for CW instead of the standard 500 hz version and even my old CB has a 3000 hz bandwidth IF section instead of the wider one. Now this does tuning a lot more sensitive to frequency shifts but I learned to deal with it.

And there multiple ways to modulate the signals too. Some of which are AM, FM, CW, and PW and those carriers can carry at least two information channels. An example is SSB. With AM there is a lower and upper single side bands which allow us the be one SSB while another party is on the other and no interference except when there a full AM signal which screws both sub bands because it has both.

General Class licensed. I do need to go far the Extra class since they dropped the 20 wpm CW requirement. But I am happy with bandwidth I have now.

 

[Sloughfoot]

Magnets. Don't have a clue how those work either.

 

[hacskaroly]

I don't even know how a transistor radio works.

Transistors contain purple smoke, you keep it in, it works fine, you let the smoke out and it's done.

 

[AVB]

Transistors contain purple smoke, you keep it in, it works fine, you let the smoke out and it's done.

And here I thought it was magic smoke. At least it not those bomb capacitors that send pieces all over the place.

Magnets. Don't have a clue how those work either.

Now you are just becoming a pest. What holds you together? Or are you just an ugly bag of mostly water?

Guys I done found a solution I just going just buy some loops, break and mend them to the DL lengths I need. Done order 100 ft of TriLInk with regular bumpers for the other saws. Now I got save up for the .325 pixel chain from Oregon even with my dealer discount, as it is thru the roof. Hopefully I can talk my customer into changing to standard .325. chain and bar.

 

[hacskaroly]

And here I thought it was magic smoke.

I suppose there is an element of magic to it, some of those transistors can cram a humongous amount of smoke in them, some can even belch flame!!

 

[AVB]

I have seen fully shorted power transistor and Mosfets blown completely apart. That when even the circuit boards get damaged. There use to be a lot electronic calculators on the Arsenal that I reworked using telephone bell wire. I even raided the telephone equipment for the spare wire. I surprised some of them didn't start ringing on incoming calls.

 

[EFSM]

You guys don't how to sharpen them

I know how to sharpen them, or at least how to tell Mr. Franzen to sharpen them, but it’s not worth sharpening them more than a couple times because then the bumper link needs taken down.

 

[AVB]

Yes depth gauges of types have to reworked after certain time. That's why there a 1/4 grinding wheel for my Oregon grinder. Yes it slower than the Franzen auto sharper but I use to all chains by hand and still check them after sharpening them. It just like new mower blades has to have their balance checked. I find quite a few out of balance which eats bearings for breakfast, lunch, and dinner depending how out of balance they are.

I can bring down to where I call them dirt chains as they are expendable at that level.

 

[EFSM]

Yes depth gauges of types have to reworked after certain time.

Absolutely. But on a chain with these bumper links, lowering the depth gauge alone is pointless.

 

[AVB]

Absolutely. But on a chain with these bumper links, lowering the depth gauge alone is pointless.

Well it does require using your brain as they have gauge tip on them too. Besides here is another version of same type of guard link that TriLink have in their catalog which you might be able to wrap your brain around.


You use the chain you prefer and I use what I need. You're not changing my mind with all the anti guard link talk. I know what it does for my uses. All I wanted was who makes it so I can contact them, period...

Now to another subject...Anyone with experience on Archer chains? I am looking a 25 ft spool of their 25AP025U chain. And yes they are using the same SKU numbers as Oregon. I think it worth a try at $135 vs my distributor's Oregon price which nearly $100 more.

 

[hacskaroly]

Anyone with experience on Archer chains?

I had a friend that tried an Archer chain and he found that it stretched faster than Stihl or Husqvarna chains. He said it cut well. I have not tried it yet, but it might be worth grabbing a loop and trying before committing to a roll.

You use the chain you prefer and I use what I need.

That is what it comes down to, use what works best for you! Similar conversation with 2-stroke oil or brand name saws...people have their opinions from what they use and debates can become quite heated.

 

[AVB]

That is what it comes down to, use what works best for you! Similar conversation with 2-stroke oil or brand name saws...people have their opinions from what they use and debates can become quite heated.

That why I stay out of a lot of threads.

Right, what works for one; don't work always for others. It like JB Weld, I have terrible experiences with it while others have good experiences. I just use what works best for my shop so it is the Permatex line for my shop. Just wish someone would come out with a JD Green plastic weld epoxy.

Or the premix can fuels. I mix my own here using a Pro Mix and 10% Ethanol with the same results. Just got to keep it in sealed containers. Darn it that remind I need to buy another case of it, getting low. Since I closed my A&I account I need to try another brand.

 

[EFSM]

Well it does require using your brain as they have gauge tip on them too. Besides here is another version of same type of guard link that TriLink have in their catalog which you might be able to wrap your brain around.

View attachment 480284
You use the chain you prefer and I use what I need. You're not changing my mind with all the anti guard link talk. I know what it does for my uses. All I wanted was who makes it so I can contact them, period...

Now to another subject...Anyone with experience on Archer chains? I am looking a 25 ft spool of their 25AP025U chain. And yes they are using the same SKU numbers as Oregon. I think it worth a try at $135 vs my distributor's Oregon price which nearly $100 more.

Go right ahead. This style of chain can make a nice smooth cutting chain if well sharpened. The point I was attempting to make is that sharpening these for customers is hardly worth my time. But for personal use—sure, that’s a different story.

 

[They call me Mr. Kibbs]

Go right ahead. This style of chain can make a nice smooth cutting chain if well sharpened. The point I was attempting to make is that sharpening these for customers is hardly worth my time. But for myself—sure, that’s a different story.

I've had great results from The Duke's chain, especially cost-wise, but not sure about whether they carry LP, much less humpbacks.