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JohnnyBlade

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Ok so with all the flyin clutch talk got my brain racing. I just put a new new clutch and drum on the 142 husky. Is there proper tourqe specs to be followed? Locktite? In my head one shouldnt fly off regardless of flimsy plastic cover being on or off. Please clarify
 

Sty57

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Ok so with all the flyin clutch talk got my brain racing. I just put a new new clutch and drum on the 142 husky. Is there proper tourqe specs to be followed? Locktite? In my head one shouldnt fly off regardless of flimsy plastic cover being on or off. Please clarify
Start it up.....give it a little rev and trip the break. Once or twice and it's not coming off.
NO Locktite.
 

JohnnyBlade

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Lol! First two responses may contradict each other. I'm going to let this one play out for a little:risas3: even though answer #1 seems good enough for me
 

beaglebriar

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Ok so with all the flyin clutch talk got my brain racing. I just put a new new clutch and drum on the 142 husky. Is there proper tourqe specs to be followed? Locktite? In my head one shouldnt fly off regardless of flimsy plastic cover being on or off. Please clarify
It's when you spin them on finger tight and forget to do what Brian said that it becomes a problem.
 

T.Roller

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Lol! First two responses may contradict each other. I'm going to let this one play out for a little:risas3: even though answer #1 seems good enough for me
Well I respect @Sty57 opinion, but if it was me I'd just put some pull rope as a piston stop in the plug hole and tighten down the clutch. If you don't piss rev it without a bar you don't have to worry about it anyways.
 

JohnnyBlade

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Ok, ya i did the rope trick and leaned on it:D
Sometimes u hear things that other peeps with alot more experience than u did and lite bulbs start flashin above my head! Thanks for the clarification.
 

Dub11

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Well I respect @Sty57 opinion, but if it was me I'd just put some pull rope as a piston stop in the plug hole and tighten down the clutch. If you don't piss rev it without a bar you don't have to worry about it anyways.

I would rather let the clutch fly off then start a thread *b-wording about it.......
 

NCFarmboy

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Ran into something yesterday never saw before. An HS257 Tillotson. It's not even listed on the Tillotson website. It's a recirculating carb. on a Jonsered 630 SuperII. When I first looked at it I thought I got this one easy fuel barb plugged. Not! It's the recirculation barb with a tiny hole in the center. Looked in my Jred IPL's found it on the last page with accessories. Going to kit it and hope for the best.
Shep
 

brandonstclair20

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I’m working on two saws that almost took me to my wits end.

Stihl 064, I bought it locally as a good runner that just needed a clutch cover and a bar. Turns out the piston was scrored.

MS441, On it’s 3rd crankcase half. The first one was broken during shipping, the second was broken during installation.

Now they are coming along pretty good.

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c3c9d27d5cc3deb041db84432ad7323c.jpg



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

MustangMike

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If I am going to experiment, I will do it on my own saws.

In the past, I have seen too much muff opening make it difficult to set idle + / or diminish throttle response. And, sometimes, not increase performance.

As a result, on client saws, I am very conservative. I don't want idle problems, I want improved throttle response and performance. Two quarter inch holes high in the side cover has achieved these results for me numerous times. It is easy to do and gives me the results I'm looking for. I see no reason to change.

Please keep in mind, these are not ported saws, they are stock saws, just looking for a little bump in performance at a low cost.

My customers are happy with it (to the extent they keep sending me new customers), so I'm happy with it.
 

Bigmac

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I went really big on my 026. I think the smaller muffler mod (ground under the deflector) on my 562 is louder.View attachment 133184View attachment 133185View attachment 133186
I recently was testing an o28, and started it without the muffler to see if there were any issues because of the muffler...it wasn’t that loud, it was kind of suprising! Same with a free ms170, the muffler was missing and I wanted to see if it ran, it was quite without the muffler, I think some saws are just louder by design
 

T.Roller

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If I am going to experiment, I will do it on my own saws.

In the past, I have seen too much muff opening make it difficult to set idle + / or diminish throttle response. And, sometimes, not increase performance.

As a result, on client saws, I am very conservative. I don't want idle problems, I want improved throttle response and performance. Two quarter inch holes high in the side cover has achieved these results for me numerous times. It is easy to do and gives me the results I'm looking for. I see no reason to change.

Please keep in mind, these are not ported saws, they are stock saws, just looking for a little bump in performance at a low cost.

My customers are happy with it (to the extent they keep sending me new customers), so I'm happy with it.
Only time I've seen idling issues is with very large front exit holes.
 
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