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Woodslasher

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Couple of quick jobs today, I lengthened the slot on a Stihl light bar a little so it'll fit on my 390 and I figured out why my 350's chain wouldn't stop spinning. Also, since I had the muffler off I documented how well the secondary heat shield on a 350 works. That upgrade should be mandatory on these plastic-case saws.
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farminkarman

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Cuttin530

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Here yah go partner, pick out a new one. Yours is done.

Bummer, just gonna run her till she pukes because im behind on my firewood hoarding for this coming winter...
 
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Cuttin530

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Scored cylinder bore aside the 620p runs fantastic except for a somewhat surging idle....previous owner said it sat for 6 years so i popped of the carb and took a look yet shes squeaky clean inside and the gaskets and diaphragm are still nice and flexible, impulse and tank lines dont have any splits and are still rubbery...would that be an effect of the scuffed cylinder bore or am i missing something?

carb still has the limiters on
idle surges from 2400-3200 slowly, measured the WOT at about 13.4k
 
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slackinoff

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Scored cylinder bore aside the 620p runs fantastic except for a somewhat surging idle....previous owner said it sat for 6 years so i popped of the carb and took a look yet shes squeaky clean inside and the gaskets and diaphragm are still nice and flexible, impulse and tank lines dont have any splits and are still rubbery...would that be an effect of the scuffed cylinder bore or am i missing something?

carb still has the limiters on
idle surges from 2400-3200 slowly, measured the WOT at about 13.4k

I certainly would rather spend a couple hours one evening pulling the jug off and cleaning up the cylinder with some sand paper and throwing a new ring in it……vs running it till it blows up.

Does the idle move around if you lay it on one side or the the other? Could be crank seals.

Is there a reason you still have the limiter caps on it? Might just need some more low jet and you are up against the low screw limiter cap.
 

Cuttin530

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I certainly would rather spend a couple hours one evening pulling the jug off and cleaning up the cylinder with some sand paper and throwing a new ring in it……vs running it till it blows up.

Does the idle move around if you lay it on one side or the the other? Could be crank seals.

Is there a reason you still have the limiter caps on it? Might just need some more low jet and you are up against the low screw limiter cap.
to be honest ive never performed surgery on a saw, not sure where to even source rings but i would love to save her

idle seems to stay the same whether on side or tilted bar down, limiters are only still on because it started raining and unclogging the gutters on the house took precedence....
 

slackinoff

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@Cuttin530 - then the crank seals are prob ok. You might try richening up the low needle. If you are at the limiter stop already on the low and need more to richen it up, take ‘em off.

And here’s what’s on my bench now. Doing some parts organizing…..Anybody wanna take a guess what this gigantic bottom fed reed clamshell cylinder is off of? Ms170 cylinder beside it for comparison.

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slackinoff

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It's from a 1992 Lawn Boy mower. Picture below. Anyways, when I bought my first house a couple of years ago, I wanted something that would be really fun to mow the yard with since it's on the small side and I'm in an office now all day instead of working outside all day. OPE is no longer just a tool to me, now they are things to enjoy....toys really! And honestly it's more fun that way now.

lb mower.jpg

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nbbt

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@Cuttin530 - then the crank seals are prob ok. You might try richening up the low needle. If you are at the limiter stop already on the low and need more to richen it up, take ‘em off.

And here’s what’s on my bench now. Doing some parts organizing…..Anybody wanna take a guess what this gigantic bottom fed reed clamshell cylinder is off of? Ms170 cylinder beside it for comparison.

View attachment 395980

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I'm partial (like a lot) to the F and M series LB's. Finding piston kits for those F-series (around here anyways) is a challenge. At least properly priced.
 

heimannm

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On my way to the Mastermind GTG I picked up some parts from an old McCulloch dealer...

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So far we've made it through the two boxes from Definitive Dave Smith and I'm almost done with the clutch drums.

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Some will need a little attention before I catalog them and put them away.

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There are some real odd balls in the mix.

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Mark
 

slackinoff

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I'm partial (like a lot) to the F and M series LB's. Finding piston kits for those F-series (around here anyways) is a challenge. At least properly priced.

A few years back when I bought this mower, I started collecting parts for a rebuild if it ever needed one. I picked up a new old stock Stens piston and a set of rings on ebay. I just searched again and yes the actual NOS Lawnboy pistons are pretty high. I didn't even see any Stens like mine.
 

Cuttin530

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Decided to pop the top on my new to me 2015 Echo 620p as i THOUGHT i had seen scoring through the muffler....decomp seems to be leaky any suggestions what to plug it with?

Piston looks ok? cylinder is totally smooth but maybe worn/glazed? seems like maybe someone has been in it before, saw mechanic noob here...
620cylinder.jpg
620pistontop.jpg
620piston.jpg
 
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slackinoff

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@Cuttin530 - I can still clearly see machine marks on the piston all the way down the intake side which is really good. This is where I always see them wear first (piston skirt, intake side). In that spot the machine marks will be worn off, which is fine, it just makes it harder to determine exactly how worn it is once they wear completely off.

The cylinder - I have an old 630 Jonsered cylinder that has that type of spot ( darker spot on your cylinder, in between the exh port and the transfer) But on my cylinder, the darker spot surrounds the intake port. I don't know what it is exactly either. Sorry...looking forward to seeing what others say.

In your last pic, the cylinder base on the case looks like it got scratched / gouged? Could just be the camera, but be mindful of that.
 

Woodslasher

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Last night I decided to polish off a few minor tasks around the bench, so I cleaned a sticky Armstrong ratchet someone gave me and pronounced it's Snap-On buddy D.O.A. Then I mocked up a 54" bar on my problem child CP125, and did some quick carb rebuilds on the 090 and 1130G.

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Nutball

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Decided to pop the top on my new to me 2015 Echo 620p as i THOUGHT i had seen scoring through the muffler....decomp seems to be leaky any suggestions what to plug it with?

Piston looks ok? cylinder is totally smooth but maybe worn/glazed? seems like maybe someone has been in it before, saw mechanic noob here...
View attachment 396882
View attachment 396883
View attachment 396884
Cylinder looks fine. The 590/620 have a common problem with the main nozzle check valve in the carb. They used a thin piece of carb diaphragm material instead of stiff fiberglass or whatever is used in most all other carbs. They get a slight air leak sometimes and go lean at idle and surge some. It is something you could probably live with, or buy a new carb and hope it doesn't happen again, or put a different main nozzle in it.
 

Maintenance Chief

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heimannm

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Local fellow had been using 90W gear oil for the bar/chain lubricant in his XL with a missing duckbill valve, saw needed some attention. The Holzforma needs a new stop switch.

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And I am still working my way though the totes of parts I brought back in October.

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Mark
 
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