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PA Dan

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If memory serves it is 0.5mm thick. There are two gaskets for this series and one is half as thick as the other. The thicker one is the same part number but ends in 02.
Thanks Joe! On my first 262 rebuild I got a gasket and if I remember right it put my squish way over .030. I made a gasket for that one and I believe im at .021.
 
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Tor R

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262xp?
I have the opportunity to look at one tomorrow and own it if a deal can be had.
I’m under the impression there is a more desirable version with the HDA87 carb and KS cylinder.
Can anyone help me out on what to look for on the cylinder?
Also wondering ballpark value assuming decent operating condition.
262 after s/n 3350195 + KS top end kit with an 87 carb would be my dream 262 setup!
Them KS's are easy to sort out against Mahle, cylinder foot flywheel side is labeled like 01 91 (its KS way to show when they where casted), most of them has a black dot paint on top on the jug, alu colour is more shinny compared against Mahle.

You need the 503 70 48-01 Base Gasket. The 262 is a head slapper with no gasket unless machine work is done.
its the 254 who is the head slapper, 262 is ruffly 9-10th in squish without gasket, at least thats where mine has been before the sanding :)

If memory serves it is 0.5mm thick. There are two gaskets for this series and one is half as thick as the other. The thicker one is the same part number but ends in 02.
I've never been lucky with them gaskets, me think Husky trow them out randomly :D
 

Cut4fun

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262 after s/n 3350195 + KS top end kit with an 87 carb would be my dream 262 setup!
Them KS's are easy to sort out against Mahle, cylinder foot flywheel side is labeled like 01 91 (its KS way to show when they where casted), most of them has a black dot paint on top on the jug, alu colour is more shinny compared against Mahle.

Interesting, Thanks for info.

I remember some kind of color deal on the top of cylinder and wondered about it. I did notice the cyl was really silver looking.

This one K&S cyl and p with hda87 carb.

Cly will get a fresh crosshatching before new ring.


h262fixxxx.jpg
 

Tor R

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@Tor R

Black dot you talk about? Front right

View attachment 96886
yup, there it is, KS on 242, 254, 262 all had that little black paint dot, at least up to 93-94, think they swapped to a blue one later on 254's and it's not that shiny aluminium on them latest I saw.

The way I figure out if its an Mahle jug is to study the A or B letter on them, there are some super small numbers on both sides of the A B.
 

Tor R

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you can see the production year and month on that KS jug, 7 1990 if my eyes are correct, far as I know no other brand label them like this.

I think I've seen 4 different jugs on 262 (Mahle & KS), if I should count timings differences I think there was 5, hmm, wasn't there a Gilardoni version also? :D
 

Cut4fun

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you can see the production year and month on that KS jug, 7 1990 if my eyes are correct, far as I know no other brand label them like this.

I try and get some better pics for ya later.

Just waiting on parts. Guess I could be cleaning the piston groove etc up and the cylinder for crosshatch. Busy with hunting stuff today. :buitre:
 

Tor R

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saw was produced and send out around week 42 year 90, not sure how precise Husky was on those things.
KS produced the jug in month 7 year 90.

Them Husky cranks are also marked when they was produced, when I get one who miss its s/n is the only way I can figure out when the saw was made, most of the times its just a month between the crank and the whole saw :)

I'll find some pictures to show them Mahle marks
 

Cut4fun

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Need any of the K&S marking from the piston? Forgot to try and do that.
 

trooney

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you can see the production year and month on that KS jug, 7 1990 if my eyes are correct, far as I know no other brand label them like this.

I think I've seen 4 different jugs on 262 (Mahle & KS), if I should count timings differences I think there was 5, hmm, wasn't there a Gilardoni version also? :D

You are correct Tor
 

huskyboy

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I began to notice the other day out cutting with my ported 375 that the chain began to creep after a cut slightly, no matter how you adjust idle it did not fix this. image.jpeg I had my suspicion the clutch was on its way out. Ended up being broke and the springs were weak as well. Comparing it to the newer clutch off the parts saw, it was obvious it was well worn. image.jpeg Also discovered there are two different oil pump designs. One with a plastic driver on the older saws and metal on the newer ones I believe. I attempted to swap them but they do not interchange. I reused the old style plastic driver. I think if I went through the trouble of swapping oil pumps, it would work on the older saws.
 

94BULLITT

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Those supports are a couple inches off the ground.

If you are on unlevel ground that is not going be enough. You may also not be able to raise it back up after you get a load on it, if it is not on level ground. the suspension will squat and the tires will bulge a little. I know I've been in situations were I barely needed ramps, and your gate would not go down in these places. Your gate also looks really short.

This is what I did.

 
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