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TheDarkLordChinChin

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Blew the decomp valve out of my 462 today. Was sawing away in big Ash and she came flying out.
Upon inspection the piston and cylinder are fine, no scoring whatsoever to be seen through the exhaust port.
However, the hole in the cylinder that the valve threads into is wrung. I won't be able to get another valve in there securely.

What are my options? New cylinder or can I re thread the hole and get a valve/plug to fit?



IMG_20240302_174822.jpgIMG_20240302_175455.jpg
 

av8or3

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I think you could find a heli-coil kit that would fix that right up. The toughest part of it might be drilling a hole that size straight through. On the other hand , being wallowed out the way it is, it might be opened up enough to not require drilling before running the heli-coil tap thru it. It certainly looks to me to be fixable without any welding.
 

Ketchup

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Blew the decomp valve out of my 462 today. Was sawing away in big Ash and she came flying out.
Upon inspection the piston and cylinder are fine, no scoring whatsoever to be seen through the exhaust port.
However, the hole in the cylinder that the valve threads into is wrung. I won't be able to get another valve in there securely.

What are my options? New cylinder or can I re thread the hole and get a valve/plug to fit?



View attachment 410192View attachment 410193

Definitely a tap and re-thread. The quality rethread inserts are a little spendy. If you don’t use the de-comp you could just thread to a standard size and plug it with a short bolt and crimp washer.
 

TheDarkLordChinChin

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Definitely a tap and re-thread. The quality rethread inserts are a little spendy. If you don’t use the de-comp you could just thread to a standard size and plug it with a short bolt and crimp washer.
Yeah people on FB told me to plug it with a bolt. That's what I'm going to do.
 

Gullet

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I put a carb kit in a Shindaiwa 695 yesterday (LUV IT!)
Modded this 18" Forester k095 today to fit the k041 488.
5oz lighter than the solid Tsumura that was on it.
I think it a little better balanced than the Tsumura.

20240303_171122.jpg
 
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Partner

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I will try to resuscitate the stator before I replace it, I bought a 5" Metabo 17 grinder, it was supposed to be for parts 😉🤠 for a few dollars, later I will need bearings and brushes
 

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Partner

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I can't unscrew the dial so I had to enter through the back door 😉🤠 It still looks good after all these years / Half a year ago I found a photo on the Internet with a white switch on the top and my grinder has a switch inside the handle, it seems to be the same manufacturer 😎
 

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nbbt

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Picked up the pull-down handle and belts for both of the Foley's.

20240306_094223.jpg
Handle was a quick twist it in, and dun. It became a good place to hang the belts till their installs a bit later. The 308 takes a 20" x 1/4"wide, and the 550-1 is the same width, but is a shorty @ only 16"s.
 

Partner

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Picked up the pull-down handle and belts for both of the Foley's.

View attachment 410687
Handle was a quick twist it in, and dun. It became a good place to hang the belts till their installs a bit later. The 308 takes a 20" x 1/4"wide, and the 550-1 is the same width, but is a shorty @ only 16"s.
Tim Foley former Player 😎🤠
 

Woodwackr

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So, tank and handle repairs on the 288.
A previous owner had drilled out the two holes at the front of the tank for 5/16" carriage bolts. They obviously stripped out at some point.
I'm thinking some sort of insert installed in the tank and use regular 5/16 bolts as everything is drilled out anyway.

Thoughts?

The spiked inserts can be heated up and melted into the plastic fairly easily using a clamp... no drilling. The other screw-in inserts would require further drilling out the holes before heating and screwing in place.
1000003422.jpg1000003423.jpg1000003424.jpg1000003425.jpg
 

Powerstroke Cowboy

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So, tank and handle repairs on the 288.
A previous owner had drilled out the two holes at the front of the tank for 5/16" carriage bolts. They obviously stripped out at some point.
I'm thinking some sort of insert installed in the tank and use regular 5/16 bolts as everything is drilled out anyway.

Thoughts?

The spiked inserts can be heated up and melted into the plastic fairly easily using a clamp... no drilling. The other screw-in inserts would require further drilling out the holes before heating and screwing in place.
View attachment 410801View attachment 410802View attachment 410803View attachment 410804

Some good epoxy should hold the spiked insurts in nicely. If you have enough room to drill it out farther for the screw in anchors and still have the meat to hold them in place. That would look the best.


Here what on my bench right now. I bought as a runner. It used to be a DCS6421 but nows it's supposed to have the 7900 cylinder on it. We shall see!20240306_200524.jpg
 

pbillyi69

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i think the tank fix will work well if the plastic is deteriated to the point of cracking really easy. how heavy are those 7900? i used to work with a guy that had a makita, i dont remember what model it was a good strong saw but it was or seemed to be way heavier than my 372
 

Woodwackr

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Some good epoxy should hold the spiked insurts in nicely. If you have enough room to drill it out farther for the screw in anchors and still have the meat to hold them in place. That would look the best.


Here what on my bench right now. I bought as a runner. It used to be a DCS6421 but nows it's supposed to have the 7900 cylinder on it. We shall see!View attachment 410809
The mufflers on those can be gutted to the point of reducing weight by damn-near a full pound.
 

Woodwackr

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Some good epoxy should hold the spiked insurts in nicely. If you have enough room to drill it out farther for the screw in anchors and still have the meat to hold them in place. That would look the best.


Hear what on my bench right now. I bought as a runner. It used to be a DCS6421 but nows it's supposed to have the 7900 cylinder on it. We shall see!View attachment 410809
Another possibility is to go with smaller inserts like a 1/4-20 in the screw-in type. Spike type would be too loose. I don’t have ant metric inserts but now might be a good time to add to my stock :p. An M6 might fit very well. Then I could use a Husky bolt…have plenty
 

Powerstroke Cowboy

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Another possibility is to go with smaller inserts like a 1/4-20 in the screw-in type. Spike type would be too loose. I don’t have ant metric inserts but now might be a good time to add to my stock :p. An M6 might fit very well. Then I could use a Husky bolt…have plenty

Sounds like a plan. Keep it simple.

The mufflers on those can be gutted to the point of reducing weight by damn-near a full pound.

This muffler has been took apart at one point. It's been welded back together, but, I'm not sure how much it's been gutted since it's still heavy. Noticeably heavier than my DCS7901 muffler.

Here's the same saw now. I got stuck on the clutch. The old hammer and srew driver methods not working on this one. I do twant to beat on it and cause the crank to develop runout. I'm going to build a tool. Looks like a 3/4 6 point socket with ever other flat cut out should work.

20240306_205801.jpg
20240306_205806.jpg20240306_205811.jpg

This one definitely has the 79cc topend in it.
20240306_205850.jpg
 

Woodwackr

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The 6421 muffler I did weighed nearly 2#. I cut it open and removed the cat and baffles leaving just a can with bolt sleeves. That was a while back…will look for pics…
no pics found :(
 
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