That's the thread I got the Idea from. Today I got the cylinder where I can bolt it up, base cut, made room in the case for the larger piston and took some off the flywheel so it wouldn't catch on the transfer tunnel.
I removed about .070 off the base and got .30 squish, it's getting pretty thin so I'm going to leave it like that and hopefully with the bolts moved inward and some half washers under the bolts to spread the load it will be strong enough.
I removed about .070 off the base and got .30 squish, it's getting pretty thin so I'm going to leave it like that and hopefully with the bolts moved inward and some half washers under the bolts to spread the load it will be strong enough.
I used an aftermarket hyway cylinder so I think it had a bit thicker base and may have not fit the same as a oem cylinder. But I was closer to .050 off both the case and cylinder. It needed very close to .1 off total to get squish tighter
Played with the pressure washer I got Sunday a little bit more. Hooked up some water, a hose and gun, fired it up and found out that the pump is good!! Just need to get the ends replaced on the hose that came with it and get a new gun. I'm keeping it for myself.
Husqvarna 353 for a bar oil leak. Removed bar/chain and cleaned possible leak areas. Filled with bar oil and now just to wait to see where it's leaking.
If you go to the 14:05 mark in video you'll see where I apply sealant to stop the common oil leaks in these saws...... seems like ALL the saws with this design tend do it.
Just finished building my 372 ported Bigbore and its a beasty, with the power it has presented so far i am glad i build it on
the reinforced XT cases and steelcage bearings cause it rips and runs like a champ!
On my bench now is my trusty 350 wich is receiving steel bootclamp and new caseseals.
It passed the pressure/vac test wich were quite surprising really considering that the bearingcap was out of shape. When grinding it on emory clothet flatplate it shows that only the corners were in contact with the case, and as always with the plastic intake clamp it was loose, more running of that saw would definately ended up in a toasted top-end, thankfully there’s not a scratch on the piston or cylinder, caught it in time
Whe ordering the steel intake clamp my local Husqvarna/Stihl dealer looked surprised and claimed they rarely encountered problems with the plastic clamp, i claim the opposite as most of the plastic clamps i came across were loose. Its quite obvious when Husqvarna themself stop selling the plastic one and only provides the steel one, that claim got my dealer something to think about for sure as the subject was changed rapidly
I found the best way to get a saw to not leak oil is to store it without oil in it. I haven’t come across a saw that did not leak oil yet. Some more than others obviously. It’s a chainsaw… it’s gonna leak some oil. I’d be more concerned if it stopped oiling. Lol
My 3120xp just arrived from @davidwyby!
It'll get a quick cleanup/inspection before a couple runs in stock form. Then teardown for carb modification and port work. Oh, and about 1,000,000 Husqvarna 359 projects. Okay, maybe only 4 at the moment, and one red version, but I'm tripping all over these damn things lately.
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