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what sealant for fuel hose line to nipple

r7000

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I worked on a BR600 STIHL backpack blower, the fuel line from the carb nipple to the push primer bulb is a loose fit over the carb nipple. Such that after running the machine for more than 5 minutes there's gas/oil everywhere.

- does the fuel tank get pressurized (on all 2 stroke power equipment similar to this) ?
- the fuel going from the tank to the inlet of the carb, is that being sucked from the carb end of pushed to the carb because the gas tank is pressurized?
- the push primer bulb, what kind of fuel flow happens there (through it) when the engine is running?
- basically can someone write one small paragraph explaining the fuel system what happens where in terms of pressure/suction/flow, taking the BR600 engine as an example with its carb and hose setup?

to seal the black rubber hose to the brass nipple what's the choice sealant to use? I don't want to buy a new hose, the hose is otherwise fine. I figure some sealant and a small zip tie to secure it is all that's needed.
 

nbbt

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Get some fresh Tygon fuel line (not the china crap line) install and don't look back. Can usually buy in foot increments from your local ope dealer/repair shop.
 

Stump Shot

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r7000

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you are implying the OEM line on a STIHL BR600 is chine crap?

My problem is the current line that is press fit onto the nipple on the carb, the hose from the carb to the primer bulb, is not tight enough on the carb nipple. Anyone pushing the hose on would think it's fine, until you run it and it leaks there. So I don't actually know the actual hose inside diameter, and what corresponding inside diameter of tygon line from HLKSupply link above (which is nice) I would need.
 

Dustin4185

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you are implying the OEM line on a STIHL BR600 is chine crap?

My problem is the current line that is press fit onto the nipple on the carb, the hose from the carb to the primer bulb, is not tight enough on the carb nipple. Anyone pushing the hose on would think it's fine, until you run it and it leaks there. So I don't actually know the actual hose inside diameter, and what corresponding inside diameter of tygon line from HLKSupply link above (which is nice) I would need.
How old is the blower? Ethanol fuel is heck on fuel lines. They may “look” okay, but if they are leaking I would change it. As far as the “China crap” comment, I believe he was just warning you that you need genuine Tygon, not just “fuel line” from fleabay.
 

huskihl

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Small zip ties usually work.

Purge bubbles pull fuel from the tank through the filter, through the carb, to the bubble, and then back into the tank. They purge the system of air so fewer pulls are needed to start after running out of fuel
 

nbbt

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They may “look” okay, but if they are leaking I would change it.
Are the lines even slightly stiff, if so IMO change it. If it's been on and off a couple of times it could be streached out.
As far as the “China crap” comment, I believe he was just warning you that you need genuine Tygon, not just “fuel line” from fleabay.
Ethanol fuel is heck on fuel lines.
Exactly, I've gotten evilbay claimed Tygon fuel line products that start getting stiff within several weeks or so. And I Never use fuel with ethanol in any of my ope equipment. I've got a local shop that had bulk rolls of Oregon tygon fuel line that has served me well.
I'm sure there are other brands that hold up well long term also.
 

schreib69

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you are implying the OEM line on a STIHL BR600 is chine crap?

My problem is the current line that is press fit onto the nipple on the carb, the hose from the carb to the primer bulb, is not tight enough on the carb nipple. Anyone pushing the hose on would think it's fine, until you run it and it leaks there. So I don't actually know the actual hose inside diameter, and what corresponding inside diameter of tygon line from HLKSupply link above (which is nice) I would need.
-- take a ruler and physically measure the internal diameter(ID) of the line, convert it to fractions and decimals
-- use the link provide by Stumpshot to choose the closest ID SMALLER than what you got
-- all is good,

Don't rely on glues to handle this problem; relay on a tight fit. If nothing else, just use the tie wrap and call it good for now!
 

hotajax

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Use Permatex NON HARDENING AVIATION FORM-A-GASKET.

Can use isopropyl alcohol if you get it on your fingers.
 
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MSaw

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Cut the hose back 10mm. Then you can measure. I doubt you can get away with cutting both ends back like that but they would be a tight fit on the barbs if you did. I would just order a line from Stihl, that way you get the right length and diameter, ready to fit. There should be no need for sealant and space is so tight around the bulb that clips or ties are difficult. I'd get a new bulb while you're at it, I've had this problem on a number of still strimmers. The line seemingly being loose might not be your actual problem.
 
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