What oil is best? and what ratio?

[rogue60]

Apparently any oil added to the fuel works, but I haven't checked it myself

Pretty much...
You just ended a 1001 page long oil thread

 

[edisto]

Pretty much...
You just ended a 1001 page long oil thread

Until you made it 1002 pages...

 

[Partner]

I guess not everyone understood me I didn't write that it was 2T oil

 

[ZeroJunk]

Apparently any oil added to the fuel works, but I haven't checked it myself

30 weight Quaker State worked fine in a Homelite 7-19C that I cut and sold firewood with. Bought two of them for $90, maybe 1972.
Used burnt motor oil for bar oil. The world did not end. Can you imagine ?

 

[MustangMike]

Used motor oil will ruin your bar ... not a good idea.

 

[Boomer2230]

Yamalube at 40:1

 

[ZeroJunk]

Used motor oil will ruin your bar ... not a good idea.

Well, it was slow a coming if it would . Maybe you could try it .

Love people talking about stuff they have never done.

Hell, we had never heard of bar oil.

 

[rogue60]

Used motor oil will ruin your bar ... not a good idea.

I can buy a new bar for any of my homeowner saws for around or less than the cost of a gallon of "bar oil" down here.
One day you guys might have stupidly over priced bar oil like us. That's when the word "tackifier" no longer means anything. Ya just want cheap or free oil for the bar and chain that does the same thing anyway even without this magic tackifier in it..
And who cares anyway the money ya save not buying bar oil in a year if ya run saws a lot ya can buy 10 new bars and a new saw lol

 

[Hoser]

My grandfather used to strain used oil through a cheese cloth “to catch any sh*t” and that’s all we used for bar oil. I don’t remember any adverse effects or oiler problems. We also ran 2 stroke oil of any flavour. outboard, snowmobile, whatever was on sale, again no issues that I remember. Cutting 50-60 cord a year, trees for lumber, etc.
Now that’s it’s my gig I run amsoil saber and bar oil. Buy both by the case load and the price is reasonable enough I don’t care. When I look at profit margins bar oil and amsoil aren’t going to put me under.

 

[MustangMike]

Well, it was slow a coming if it would . Maybe you could try it .

Love people talking about stuff they have never done.

Hell, we had never heard of bar oil.

I did try it, that is how I know. I now use only real bar oil because it works better. I have not lost a single bar using real bar oil.

None of my saws are stock, perhaps you had different results with more anemic saws!

 

[MustangMike]

I can buy a new bar for any of my homeowner saws for around or less than the cost of a gallon of "bar oil" down here.
One day you guys might have stupidly over priced bar oil like us. That's when the word "tackifier" no longer means anything. Ya just want cheap or free oil for the bar and chain that does the same thing anyway even without this magic tackifier in it..
And who cares anyway the money ya save not buying bar oil in a year if ya run saws a lot ya can buy 10 new bars and a new saw lol

I use a lot of Stihl light bars, because they are the lightest for their size. You would have to pay a lot for bar oil to replace a 36" one of those because you ruined it while milling hardwood.

Use what you want, it does not matter to me, but don't tell folks used oil works as well as real bar oil, because that is just BS.

You can often get deals buying it when it is on sale at places like TS.

 

[MustangMike]

Now that’s it’s my gig I run amsoil saber and bar oil. Buy both by the case load and the price is reasonable enough I don’t care. When I look at profit margins bar oil and amsoil aren’t going to put me under.

That is exactly what I do! I have 16 running saws, most are ported, none are stock, and I often mill with 36" Stihl light bars.

Using the right products (I run Saber at 40:1) keeps all of your valuable equipment functioning well.

 

[rogue60]

I use a lot of Stihl light bars, because they are the lightest for their size. You would have to pay a lot for bar oil to replace a 36" one of those because you ruined it while milling hardwood.

Use what you want, it does not matter to me, but don't tell folks used oil works as well as real bar oil, because that is just BS.

You can often get deals buying it when it is on sale at places like TS.

I never really noticed any notable difference personally between bar oil and oil even running hard nose bars when "bar oil" is really put to the test. But one thing I do notice is my wallet is way fatter not buying "bar oil"..

Like I said bar oil is a little more expensive down here than what you guys pay. If bar oil was as cheap here as it is there I'd run bar just like you guys.
I'm all for running the cheapest bar oil ya can get also just like you.

Like this for example yeah I'm not paying that for busted ass bar oil lol

 

[PissRev]

Do women argue who makes the best dish soap and laundry soap on their forums?

 

[PissRev]

I never really noticed any notable difference personally between bar oil and oil even running hard nose bars when "bar oil" is really put to the test. But one thing I do notice is my wallet is way fatter not buying "bar oil"..

Like I said bar oil is a little more expensive down here than what you guys pay. If bar oil was as cheap here as it is there I'd run bar just like you guys.
I'm all for running the cheapest bar oil ya can get also just like you.

Like this for example yeah I'm not paying that for busted ass bar oil lol

View attachment 457570

That's a crazy high price. The last bar oil I bought was $8 US for 3.78 l.

 

[Partner]

Everyone knows that their choice works best The woman knows it too

 

[ZeroJunk]

I did try it, that is how I know. I now use only real bar oil because it works better. I have not lost a single bar using real bar oil.

None of my saws are stock, perhaps you had different results with more anemic saws!

Yeah, a Homelite 7-19C was likely more anemic.

 

[MustangMike]

Yeah, a Homelite 7-19C was likely more anemic.

Much slower RPM, I'm sure.

My Homelite 330 was touted as being "Hi speed" ... it was 7,500 RPM. I replaced it with a 10mm 044 that does 15,000.

There is a difference in needs between high torque and high speed.

A car engine with powdered rods can withstand a lot of torque and will even hold up to a SC is you limit the RPMs, but if you raise the RPMs it will come apart. They even use powdered rods in diesel engines.

A steel crank is stronger than a nodular iron crank, but it must be perfectly balanced to work well and is therefore mostly just used in racing engines. Passenger car engines are not as meticulously balanced and will last a lot longer with a nodular iron crank that is capable of withstanding vibrations.

My point, what works best depends on the circumstances.

 

[ZeroJunk]

Much slower RPM, I'm sure.

My Homelite 330 was touted as being "Hi speed" ... it was 7,500 RPM. I replaced it with a 10mm 044 that does 15,000.

There is a difference in needs between high torque and high speed.

A car engine with powdered rods can withstand a lot of torque and will even hold up to a SC is you limit the RPMs, but if you raise the RPMs it will come apart. They even use powdered rods in diesel engines.

A steel crank is stronger than a nodular iron crank, but it must be perfectly balanced to work well and is therefore mostly just used in racing engines. Passenger car engines are not as meticulously balanced and will last a lot longer with a nodular iron crank that is capable of withstanding vibrations.

My point, what works best depends on the circumstances.

I was talking about using used burnt motor oil for bar oil 50 years ago, little longer ago than that actually.

Not sure how it morphed. Internet thing.

 

[hacskaroly]

Not sure how it morphed. Internet thing.

Probably like using used transmission fluid...or just about anything to try and save a few $$ and not buy B&C oil.

Likely YouTube Video - Free Chainsaw Hack, How I use vegetable oil from KFC fryers instead of B&C oil!!