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What oil is best? and what ratio?

farminkarman

I like the red & black ones
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Just park your vehicle in large city, leave it over night and you no longer need to worry about catalytic converter. Car dealership around here would also work.
ain’t that the truth….idiots stole the DPF’s off a bunch of local school busses recently…probably thought they were something worth stealing.
 

jakethesnake

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Yeah I run diesel oil in my gasoline engines. I don’t run gasoline oils in my diesels. If I bought a brand new truck tomorrow I’d run whatever they told me until the warranty ran up. Then to shell 15-40 conventional

@Mastermind the synthetic 5-40 is great in winter. It gets moving faster so to speak. Makes the engine spin over way easier. Myself I just use conventional. I plug em in when I can When I can’t I let them crank till they fire. Maybe if I lived in Siberia I’d switch but we only get a couple months of super cold weather a year. If it’s that brutal out I typically only use diesel to feed the cows. And that machine plugs into the wall
 

Nutball

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Not the same kind of unit.
They sure look similar. Both are supposed to burn the dirty exhaust so it comes out cleaner, right? I have seen the diesel particulate filter on a grapple truck, and it looked like a filter rather than a cat, because nothing burned, it was one big block of carbon.
 

whitesnake

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Yeah the T6 sure helps them crank when cold. I needed all the help I could get when I had my GM 6.5. If I was home it got plugged in of course. But a lot of scenarios where you can’t be plugged in. It’s also great, along with the white bottle 15/40, in wet clutch applications. Motorcycles, quads, etc. it’s got the extra zinc and doesn’t have moly so no clutch slippage. It takes a pretty good beating. All I ever ram in my R1 that saw almost 14k rpm on the daily and never a problem. It’s also being used as your transmission fluid as well so pretty impressive. I picked it up from a lot of track day riders that ran it. If it holds up on a road course it’s fine for the street. Mobile 1 15/50 is also ok for wet clutches. I use that in applications that call for a heavier weight oil. Actually my zero turn calls for it in the hydros. I like lube. Good stuff.
 

FergusonTO35

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Restore brand oil treatment is one of a few that actually works quite well. I use 12 ounces in every oil change on my 1998 Mazda 626 with 330k miles. The car looks like crap but runs great. It leaks about a quart between changes but doesn't burn any oil and still gets over 30 mpg. Last time I did a leakdown and compression test the numbers looked like a vehicle with 100k instead of over 300. I do believe that Restore helps to seal rings and pistons with alot of honest wear and probably adds a bit of cushion to the bearings as well. I use store brand full synthetic 10w30 changed every 2k because I know that a vehicle with that kind of mileage is going to put more combustion byproducts in the oil than a newer one.
 

FergusonTO35

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ain’t that the truth….idiots stole the DPF’s off a bunch of local school busses recently…probably thought they were something worth stealing.

Well, ya know some people actually pay alot of money to do an emissions delete and they got it for free!
 

Duce

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Our 2018 Massey Ferguson with Shibaura engine has a cat and you can't see or smell the exhaust at all. I'm glad it doesn't have DPF or DEF to worry about
Same engine manufacturer as my New Holland, 2004 with 2058 hours. Still runs like the day I purchased it, knock on wood.
 

Nutball

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Even at 32:1 or 25:1 it is cheaper than a lot of other high end oils, unless you run the high end ones at 100:1
 
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