High Quality Chainsaw Bars Husqvarna Toys

What oil is best? and what ratio?

Nutball

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Saber is advertised as cleaner at 100:1, but is it just as dirty as other at normal ratios?

What other oils advertise "cleans" than Red Armor? Dominator and Saber appear to just prevent carbon by clean burning and at lean ratios.

How clean of a piston can we expect to see from Red Armor? I have a FT ms250 with a black piston I could try RA in at 32:1 when I refill my gas cans.
 

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Saber is advertised as cleaner at 100:1, but is it just as dirty as other at normal ratios?

What other oils advertise "cleans" than Red Armor? Dominator and Saber appear to just prevent carbon by clean burning and at lean ratios.

How clean of a piston can we expect to see from Red Armor? I have a FT ms250 with a black piston I could try RA in at 32:1 when I refill my gas cans.
Dominator is not a lean ratio oil. Its recommended at 50:1 mix as a starting point.

Saber has ratios listed on the bottle from 32:1 on up to 100.

There are guys here running saber at 40 and 50:1 and say its clean enough.
 

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I was looking at their 100:1 packet page for Saber. They said you can use more, but were pushing the cleanliness of 100:1. Dominator just mentioned preventing carbon or so I gathered.
 

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I was looking at their 100:1 packet page for Saber. They said you can use more, but were pushing the cleanliness of 100:1. Dominator just mentioned preventing carbon or so I gathered.
After running the 100, 200, and 300:1 testing there was some carbon in the Dominator engine. Virtually nothing through 200. Only after 300 completion did some show up. Im talking in the exhaust port and above the ring. Im not hung up on a layer of hard carbon on the piston crown as long as it reaches equilibrium and doesn't grow thicker. Anyway, 3 full tanks of Dominator mixed at 40:1 after the lean tests showed significant removal of the deposits left from testing. Its own deposits. In no way am I saying it will clean other oils mess up but it cleaned its own. As did Red armor its own after lean testing was completed.
 

Egg Shooter

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Personally, I'll never run any oil in equipment I care about at anything leaner than 50:1 and that has only happened a couple times. I like more oil if it doesn't effect operation negatively. I personally know of lawn service crews running Saber at 80 and 100:1 in all there lawn care 2 strokes without issue and love it. I don't see the point unless your usage is so high that it makes a difference on your bottom line not to run it at 50:1.
 

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Personally, I'll never run any oil in equipment I care about at anything leaner than 50:1 and that has only happened a couple times. I like more oil if it doesn't effect operation negatively. I personally know of lawn service crews running Saber at 80 and 100:1 in all there lawn care 2 strokes without issue and love it. I don't see the point unless your usage is so high that it makes a difference on your bottom line not to run it at 50:1.

After your lean ratio testing, I ditched my 40:1 stickers. 50:1 is plenty of oil unless the oil you use is garbage. I still use 40:1, but no longer think 50:1 is a death sentence for Ope.
 

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I found that saws with flatter transfer roofs “wash” the top of the piston better and have less carbon build up no matter what oil I’m using. I also noticed the smoothness of the exhaust port finish and quality of the gas to affect carbon buildup too. Yes I think the oil still plays a role but there are other factors to consider too.
 

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After your lean ratio testing, I ditched my 40:1 stickers. 50:1 is plenty of oil unless the oil you use is garbage. I still use 40:1, but no longer think 50:1 is a death sentence for Ope.
I concur but just can't bring myself to go to 50 lol.
 

Egg Shooter

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I found that saws with flatter transfer roofs “wash” the top of the piston better and have less carbon build up no matter what oil I’m using. I also noticed the smoothness of the exhaust port finish and quality of the gas to affect carbon buildup too. Yes I think the oil still plays a role but there are other factors to consider too.
Fuel definitely plays a role. Perfectly sound 4 strokes get their carbon from something.
In my saws I only use VP racing 94 or Sunoco Optima 95. Both mixed with 40:1 Dominator mix. Canned fuel is super clean.
 

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Fuel definitely plays a role. Perfectly sound 4 strokes get their carbon from something.
In my saws I only use VP racing 94 or Sunoco Optima 95. Both mixed with 40:1 Dominator mix. Canned fuel is super clean.
The canned fuel definitely burns cleaner than pump gas. Even motomix with stihl ultra burns cleaner than ultra with pump gas imo. It even smells different. It’s such a difference that I swear they are using a different oil in the motomix but they say it’s the same…
 

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The canned fuel definitely burns cleaner than pump gas. Even motomix with stihl ultra burns cleaner than ultra with pump gas imo. It even smells different. It’s such a difference that I swear they are using a different oil in the motomix but they say it’s the same…
After running canned fuel with a few different oils, I can hardly stomach the smell of most pump gas / oil mixes. Luckily for me a 5 gallon can of VP or Optima will last 2-3 years. Some High usage guys would be hurting in the wallet.
 

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So just to clarify, you only observed carbon build up and removal in the exhaust port? I find the port doesn't get as dirty as a piston crown, and my main concern is the carbon getting to thick. Also, keeping the piston clean may help it stay cooler and trap more heat in the cylinder.

Next I'd like to see a test showing which oils or ratios protect best against overheat damage.
 

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After running canned fuel with a few different oils, I can hardly stomach the smell of most pump gas / oil mixes. Luckily for me a 5 gallon can of VP or Optima will last 2-3 years. Some High usage guys would be hurting in the wallet.
I can’t afford the canned fuel for my usage at work. Those saws get high usage anyway so they aren’t sitting for long with old ethanol fuel. But for some of my saws in my collection I don’t use for work I use the canned fuel. I can run a saw dry on it and have the piece of mind the fuel system stuff won’t go bad as quickly.
 

Egg Shooter

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So just to clarify, you only observed carbon build up and removal in the exhaust port? I find the port doesn't get as dirty as a piston crown, and my main concern is the carbon getting to thick. Also, keeping the piston clean may help it stay cooler and trap more heat in the cylinder.

Next I'd like to see a test showing which oils or ratios protect best against overheat damage.
They both, Dominator and Red Armor, started removing carbon from the exhaust port and side of the piston above the ring. During my after test teardowns I clean the crown to show wether there was detonation or not. So no idea on the crown cleaning abilities. I reassembled those two, with everything else as they were at tests end, and ran on 40:1 of each oil they were tested with. Only 4 engines out of 22 oils ran after and only two were nearly unscathed.
 
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