Gotta hole in yer gloveThis is my plug after running a Red Armor, Klotz, VP oil cocktail. Oil used with VP SEF.
MOFO 026 with a generally fat tune. Just cut 4 straight days running saw WOT for most cuts. Went through 1 gallon of bar oil for the job. 8 decent sized trees, 18 to 20" diameter sticks. Plug is the same one that came on my saw. About 2 years old.
Around 32ish:1.
This is also why I prefer a synthetic blend oil without esters for saw use.This is exactly why I have stayed away from Klotz original techniplate, and a few other oils like Dominator, Red Line and a few others. These oils state specifically they contain no corrosion inhibitors, and are notbro be use as storage lubricants.
To me most of the high end oils run clean. IMHO other factors like fuel, tuning and how the saw is ran, determines internal cleanliness, not just the oil. Only a few oils made a true mess of things, Klotz super techniplate comes to mind.
The old Red Armor did have a bit different formulation as compared to run of the mill OPE oils. As its formulated now I cant justify the price.Yes
This is one of two reasons why I asked:
I only notice “condensation” in saws with OTP and the Klotz OTP container says for race only. Doesn’t say anything about corrosion protection and even suggests fogging if you’re going to be storing it.
Just about every other good oil says stuff about corrosion protection and some even have fuel stabilizers for storage. Maxima K2, for example has details about corrosion protection.
Also, I’ve got some old Red Armor, smells like dead fish ........ the new Red Armor doesn’t smell like it at all. It’s definitely alot different from what it was
I still personally want an ester based oil. I believe with the right additive package some of the issues with ester are negated. K2 and others have good corrosion resistance from what I've seen. The positives with a properly formulated ester based oil outweigh the negatives IMHO That said if corrosion is ones main concern oils like 2R and HP2 are probably the way to go. Thus far I have seen no reason to switch from K2.This is also why I prefer a synthetic blend oil without esters for saw use.
That would be my guess tooStihl Ultra?
I sprayed it out with carb cleaner right before the picture was takenThe shiny glaze makes me think something with Castor in it.
K2 is an ester blend and I really like it. However, I wouldnt trust any ester or ester blend oil for storage long than a few weeks in a humid climate.I still personally want an ester based oil. I believe with the right additive package some of the issues with ester are negated. K2 and others have good corrosion resistance from what I've seen. The positives with a properly formulated ester based oil outweigh the negatives IMHO That said if corrosion is ones main concern oils like 2R and HP2 are probably the way to go. Thus far I have seen no reason to switch from K2.
Couldnt give me Stihl Ultra or a Fourmix engine for that matter..That Stihl Ultra is baked on
Im with u Ben. Someone gave me this HT101 telescoper which I have a HT250 non telescoping but I figured for free Id clean her up and feed her some K2Couldnt give me Stihl Ultra or a Fourmix engine for that matter..
When Ultra first came out I bought a new Ms361 and got two quarts of the stuff due to the dealer raving how great it was. Never cared for the smell and really didnt care for it after I took a peak inside.
Agreed. However I've had saws ran with K2 and R50 sit for 6+ months and have yet to see any signs of corrosion.K2 is an ester blend and I really like it. However, I wouldnt trust any ester or ester blend oil for storage long than a few weeks in a humid climate.
I did that sort of stuff for years and had no issues until one day I did. Lesson learned. Although, now that I live in MT where its bone dry its less of an issue.Agreed. However I've had saws ran with K2 and R50 sit for 6+ months and have yet to see any signs of corrosion.
I would venture to guess the oil was only one part of the problem, as you said environment plays a key role.I did that sort of stuff for years and had no issues until one day I did. Lesson learned. Although, now that I live in MT where its bone dry its kess of an issue.
Of course its damp in the upper midwest. Especially in the fall and spring.I would venture to guess the oil was only one part of the problem, as you said environment plays a key role.