High Quality Chainsaw Bars Husqvarna Toys Hockfire Saws

What oil is best? and what ratio?

andyshine77

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Thats totally incorrect IMO and the majority thinks that way. How can liquified oil turn to carbon? Ive never seen oil poured on a table turn to carbon?Carbon is a byproduct of complete combustion and turns to carbon by complete combustion which takes heat. I know for a fact a saw with a low oil/fuel ratio say at 32to1 and tuned rich will stay cleaner than a saw ran at 50to1 and tuned lean will make more carbon. Been there and done that
That has more to do with piston wash from unburnt fuel/oil.
 

andyshine77

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A saw thats running cooler and running a low oil ratio and tuned rich will stay clean. So IMO running a oil thats hard to combust like Motul 800t and a high octane fuel along with a rich tune will stay cleanest. The oil wont combust completely, stay in a liquified state, and actually wash the piston and exhaust clean. All that at the expense of lost performance IMO
Lol exactly. Guess I should team all the posts before responding.
 

andyshine77

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I like more oil over alil more performance. Currently Im running K2 at 32to1 in my Stihl FS250 trimmer with 93 Corn gas and its alil wet at the muffler opening but I feel comfortable with that
I haven't seen that with K2 but I don't run it at 32:1 in my trimmers or blowers. I personally feel that 32:1 is too much in the lower revving equipment, and when I take a blower or trimmer apart that's been ran on 50:1 and tuned correctly, it's always soaking wet with oil. Saws "especially ported ones" tend to be much dryer inside with 50:1 mix.

It all depends on application and tuning. I don't really pay attention to the buildup on the piston crown much, you will always have some carbon on the crown. What I look at is the ring groves, bearings, wear on the piston skirt and exhaust port buildup.
 
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Keith Gandy

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I haven't seen that with K2 but I don't run it at 32:1 in my trimmers or blowers. I personally feel that 32:1 is too much in the lower revving equipment, and when I take a blower or trimmer apart that's been ran on 50:1 it's always soaking wet with oil. Saws "especially ported ones" tend to be much dryer inside with 50:1 mix.

It all depends on application and tuning.
Ya that was my first tank with it in the FS250 and may go to 40to1. In the Stihl BG86c blower I noticed the unit running better on topend but it runs WOT
 

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The oil doesnt endlessly collect and stay in the crankcase. Only a certain amount migrates from the fuel to the bottoemend and the warmer the engine runs the excess is consumed. Its a total loss oiling system IMO

Oil dont vapor like gas or wather.
Oil lubes everything with the mix traveling tru the engine and what dont complete burns is carbon. Castrol A747 most used oil over here in 70cc scooters. 27hp on rear wheel. Max 40:1 recommend by Castrol best use by Castrol 50:1 to 60:1 because of carbon build up on piston and exhaust port.
 

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Oil dont vapor like gas or wather.
Oil lubes everything with the mix traveling tru the engine and what dont complete burns is carbon. Castrol A747 most used oil over here in 70cc scooters. 27hp on rear wheel. Max 40:1 recommend by Castrol best use by Castrol 50:1 to 60:1 because of carbon build up on piston and exhaust port.
Are those scooters fixed jet?
 

Keith Gandy

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Oil dont vapor like gas or wather.
Oil lubes everything with the mix traveling tru the engine and what dont complete burns is carbon. Castrol A747 most used oil over here in 70cc scooters. 27hp on rear wheel. Max 40:1 recommend by Castrol best use by Castrol 50:1 to 60:1 because of carbon build up on piston and exhaust port.
Oil dont vapor like gas or wather.
Oil lubes everything with the mix traveling tru the engine and what dont complete burns is carbon. Castrol A747 most used oil over here in 70cc scooters. 27hp on rear wheel. Max 40:1 recommend by Castrol best use by Castrol 50:1 to 60:1 because of carbon build up on piston and exhaust port.
Thats incorrect. What oil that doesnt combust doesnt turn to carbon. It stays wet along with the fuel and washes the piston and exhaust port and shows up wet in the muffler and outlet. IMO u r backwards. If its carboning bad its ran with less oil, hot, and a lean tune
 

bwalker

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Lol at least I know that's how it is on cars. Don't see the point in semi synthetic myself. Might as well just run dyno.

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Rubbish as it pertains to cars too.
 

bwalker

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If the fuel gets hotter due the lower octane number, than i think that you have less carbon buildup.
Carbon is mostley unburnd oil i learned on school. Hotter fuel, hotter oil.

Just my toughts...
Lower octane fuel doesnt burn hotter.
Four cycle pistons have carbon on them. Its normal.
 

sawmikaze

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Ya that was my first tank with it in the FS250 and may go to 40to1. In the Stihl BG86c blower I noticed the unit running better on topend but it runs WOT

I might go to 50:1 in my blower and trimmer keith..they don't seem to like heavier ratios in my experience...atleast not with the oils I've tried.
 
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tp2177

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Rubbish as it pertains to cars too.

As cheap as Mobil one is now at Walmart you don’t really save anything with semi synthetic. Also I can only get 0W-20 for my Camry in full synthetic. Toyota master tech I go to church with has seen fleet Camrys with over 300k running that oil at 10k oil changes. And he said those cars are beat on all the time. I change mine at 5k but I do that for my own piece of mind, not any scientific data to back it up.

Also with the particle size being different sizes how do you know tighter tolerance engines now a days are properly lubricated? It’s not like the smaller particles know to go to smaller places. With full synthetic particles are a much tighter size as far as uniformity. Any particle can go anywhere.

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RI Chevy

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Do yourself a favor and have a UOA test done on your 5k oil. It will be an eye opener. [emoji6]
 

bwalker

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Oil dont vapor like gas or wather.
Oil lubes everything with the mix traveling tru the engine and what dont complete burns is carbon. Castrol A747 most used oil over here in 70cc scooters. 27hp on rear wheel. Max 40:1 recommend by Castrol best use by Castrol 50:1 to 60:1 because of carbon build up on piston and exhaust port.
Oh boy! I dont know where to start other than to say you havent posted a single thing thats correct.
 

tp2177

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Do yourself a favor and have a UOA test done on your 5k oil. It will be an eye opener. [emoji6]

I’ve seen some reports that tell me it’s fine lol. I just know when I change it, it’s dark, not dyno oil at 3k dark but enough that I don’t want all that dirt “lubricating” my engine. I plan on getting 300-400k+ out of this Camry as I drive it for work, so I don’t mind spending more on oil.

Edit: I do no believe that Toyota’s are as good as they were in the 90’s (Japanese built and assembled) so I’m helping it as much as I can


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tp2177

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I Camry would probaly last forever ran on coal tar..

Lol the old ones definitely. My Nissan hardbody will never see anything but dyno oil, but they last forever even with that.


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bwalker

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As cheap as Mobil one is now at Walmart you don’t really save anything with semi synthetic. Also I can only get 0W-20 for my Camry in full synthetic. Toyota master tech I go to church with has seen fleet Camrys with over 300k running that oil at 10k oil changes. And he said those cars are beat on all the time. I change mine at 5k but I do that for my own piece of mind, not any scientific data to back it up.

Also with the particle size being different sizes how do you know tighter tolerance engines now a days are properly lubricated? It’s not like the smaller particles know to go to smaller places. With full synthetic particles are a much tighter size as far as uniformity. Any particle can go anywhere.

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Particle size isnt an issue... and never has been.
Synthetic four cycle lubricants work better because they are more stable and resist changes in viscosity better.
 

tp2177

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Particle size isnt an issue... and never has been.
Synthetic four cycle lubricants work better because they are more stable and resist changes in viscosity better.

Hey if Mobil one can take a BMW to a million miles I’m a believer lol. A Toyota or Honda to a million miles wouldn’t be near as impressive.


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bwalker

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I’ve seen some reports that tell me it’s fine lol. I just know when I change it, it’s dark, not dyno oil at 3k dark but enough that I don’t want all that dirt “lubricating” my engine. I plan on getting 300-400k+ out of this Camry as I drive it for work, so I don’t mind spending more on oil.

Edit: I do no believe that Toyota’s are as good as they were in the 90’s (Japanese built and assembled) so I’m helping it as much as I can


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I am currently running a 20k change intwrval in my 2012 Toyota Tacoma using Mobil 1 Annual Performance. Used oil analysis says the engine is doing great and I am not nice to it..
 
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