Its alil finicky off a long idle and has a bobble and catches right up and wont bobble again unless idles a minute or so which I dont idle that much very often anyway. When pouring the fuel to it it is a cuttin son of a gun with PS chain. Im cutting with r2 at 20to1 and im not so sure that its ever run better
Keith this is what you need in that 241. Loggers swear by it at 25-32:1 and get almost 4 years out of their 372's. Running it at 50:1 they were getting 6-18 months. Same refinery makes the base oil for the Stihl orange bottle as this oil. Probably blends here in Shreveport at the same plant also. Loggers tell me they never inspect the inside of their saws for buildup....stupid if it's still working. Once it breaks...buy a new one or I get it. Then it goes to Keith for rehabilitation or resurrection.
Ya its just a tool for most professionals
NOTE that does NOT say "synthetic"? WHY NOT take advantage of the newest technology of the synthetics?
So far on my 241 my saw is liking r2 at 20to1
"never inspect inside of their saw.." or BOSSES SAWS? Ownership makes a difference in how the equipment is treated.. LOL
ACTUALLY, I would say "Sad But True"
Keith knows I was joking. I only use 800 off-road in all my saws, ported and stock, with zero issues. The Logger that uses Safe Guard oil says he's found out that it's the QUANTITY of oil not the TYPE of oil that counts. He's also used Lucas synthetic and husky synthetic oil but didn't notice any improvement in the life (longevity) of his saws. I doubt if anyone reading this thread has ever experienced an engine failure using a 32:1 mix with ANY brand of oil. If so, I'd like to hear about it.
Exactly. Great post
Not necessarily, these guys KNOW what works and what does not from many thousands of hours trial & error, as simple as fellows believe they might be. Modern mineral oils made from quality base stocks are fantastic, assist in the combustion process rather than resist it. Those guys could replace a saw brand new each year easily with the savings from not running synthetics. Running oil that's 3x the price that offers less protection, tuning issues, promotes blow-by from lack of ring seal, is hygroscopic (attracts moisture inside crank case) and resists being combusted......well to some ain't such a good idea. You will get more power, better ring seal and less varnish not running synthetics. Don't forget how oil is used in 2t applications is totally different to 4t. A two stroke burns oil, what do you think burns better providing more power? Mineral derived or synthetic ester? It is a chemical nightmare making synthetics work well in 2t, a lot of problems to overcome. If you want the BEST lubricating properties, run Caster nothing will beat it at that one quality."never inspect inside of their saw.." or BOSSES SAWS? Ownership makes a difference in how the equipment is treated.. LOL
(Anytime) you run a saw, I.e. Continue to run, knowing in your head (e.g. ear) that it is running lean, you are dancing with the devil....
