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What oil is best? and what ratio?

stihl saws

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I have ran 3 gallons of blue oil so far.
I ported a 660 the other day and after less than a tank I pulled the cylinder to change timing and the new piston was completely black and dry.
I have never seen anything like it,with the other oil i used it would be just a slight wash pattern.

Should it be completely black that fast?
My 660 when I bought it had hard black carbon on the piston top. I replaced the rings and ran it on Stihl Ultra. When I took it back apart (maybe 4 hrs run time) the carbon was washing away and could be wiped off with a rag.
 

jmssaws

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My 660 when I bought it had hard black carbon on the piston top. I replaced the rings and ran it on Stihl Ultra. When I took it back apart (maybe 4 hrs run time) the carbon was washing away and could be wiped off with a rag.
I've had a mountain of 660's apart that ran on stihl oil and there covered in a thick layer of carbon. I've seen the exhaust port about shut off.

Another thing about those saws is below the rings it's bone dry and I don't like that
 

stihl saws

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I've had a mountain of 660's apart that ran on stihl oil and there covered in a thick layer of carbon. I've seen the exhaust port about shut off.

Another thing about those saws is below the rings it's bone dry and I don't like that
Just saying my personal experience, not endorsing it. I run K2 now, but pics are in Dave's "Pull it out and measure thread."
 

smokey7

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Oddly my saws have the same ashy cover on the whole piston top. But my skis have sone near the exhaust port and washed on the transfers. And I'm using the same brand just a different formula. I wonder what causes that?
 

drf256

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It may have been covered already, but I run Motul 800 @32:1 and get nearly zero ash formation.

I was running Royal Purple prior and got ash after a few tanks. My mufflers are definitely oily inside and piston tops shine like new.

But I don't mill or run saws as much as you guys do
 

mdavlee

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800 won't burn. I don't use it any more. Less power on it than other thinner oils that will combust easier. It will protect no doubt. Just not optimal for peak power. 800 in a saw that was used for milling some.

34178688a9ad9b39ee5ceb9e88471fc5.jpg
 

Jose A.S.T.S.

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So here is a question been chatting with a logger out west. He says ported or not ported he runs 50:1. He said oil actual holds heat in which is not good for an air cooled engine. Running his saws at 50:1 he cuts millions with an S of board feet and has not noticed a problem with the life expectancy in His saws.
What do yall think of this Annalise????
 

Jose A.S.T.S.

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@junkman by going to 60:1 reducing oil amount could yes clear up spooge but will you be Lossing protection and or will you saw be running hotter?? How will you know? Spooge could be gone but is it bc of less oil or hotter burn due to less oil? I don't have the answers but have been wondering myself. Will you loose protection going with less? Is it better for your saw? Could the saw run cooler with less oils at 60:1?
 

CoreyB

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I am thinking of trying the saber at 60 to 1 ,see if some of the limbing light load spooge goes away .40 to 1 in the mill 660 even feels a tad rich
I have been getting some "spooge " on my 192 running the Echo red armor at 43:1 and no spooge on the Dolmar.
I was wondering if I still had it tuned to rich. By throttle response and cuttingthey sure don't feel rich. The red armor does seem to leave more oil on the piston (of the 6100) then the Dolmar oil. I wonder if the little 192 just doesn't run hot enough or under enough load? I guess I should just go cut some wood.
 

junkman

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@junkman by going to 60:1 reducing oil amount could yes clear up spooge but will you be Lossing protection and or will you saw be running hotter?? How will you know? Spooge could be gone but is it bc of less oil or hotter burn due to less oil? I don't have the answers but have been wondering myself. Will you loose protection going with less? Is it better for your saw? Could the saw run cooler with less oils at 60:1?
I have been taught less oil runs cooler actually ,one of my old atv engine builders told me to run gas over my finger ,then oil ,the gas was cooler than the oil ,not sure if he was full of bs or if it is right ,but is the way i was told .One of my friends that was sponsored by redline oils ran his cr125 supercross bike at 64 to 1 ,and never blew it up from the oil .
 

Jose A.S.T.S.

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That sounds right I have had old guys tell me that's why they run 93 octane gas more pure and burns cooler I don't know, for me going from 87 octane to 93 I saw a difference in my saws performance, oil on the other hand I'm learning...
 

CoreyB

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I have been taught less oil runs cooler actually ,one of my old atv engine builders told me to run gas over my finger ,then oil ,the gas was cooler than the oil ,not sure if he was full of bs or if it is right ,but is the way i was told .One of my friends that was sponsored by redline oils ran his cr125 supercross bike at 64 to 1 ,and never blew it up from the oil .
Well if that is true why is richer oil always recommended. I mean other than the manufacturersalways recommending 50:1
 

junkman

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Well if that is true why is richer oil always recommended. I mean other than the manufacturersalways recommending 50:1
Same reason the exhaust port is the size of a pencil eraser ,to meet emissions ,the more oil is not for piston protection as much as lower end bearings .
Also more oil will make the saw run leaner which in some cases produces more power ,as long as it is able to combust it that is ,and able to tune it properly .
 

Redbull661

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661 32:1 amsoil saber -

28" bar - no spark screens in
then
28" bar - put the spark screens in
then
41" bar - spark screens still in

looks like things progressively heated up.
 

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