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What oil is best? and what ratio?

stihl sawing

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Can you guys get ethanol free gas where you're at? I only buy it for the small engines. It's about 50 cents a gallon higher.
 

mdavlee

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I get it for .15 more a gallon. All grades are available. Dumonde was pretty clean. It left a gray film on the crown when tuned by ear.
 

Mark71gtx

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OK oil heads. I still never received an answer to my legitimate question about Red Armor claiming to clean the piston. Do any other oils make the same claim?
 

bwalker

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In the oils i have found ,if they clean the piston top ,they also do not combust as well
Any oil will clean a piston if it's running excessively rich and poorly combusting.
Tuned correctly I have never seen a oil remove carbon that's already in place.
Btw I am working g with my cr500 right now and I got the jetting such that it's burning Super techniplate very cleanly. Running a different taper needle than I have used before and it's working great. This is no easy task with a five hunny as they are typically fat down low decent in the midrange, lean to the point of detonation under load at 3/4 throttle and rich on top.
 

junkman

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Any oil will clean a piston if it's running excessively rich and poorly combusting.
Tuned correctly I have never seen a oil remove carbon that's already in place.
Btw I am working g with my cr500 right now and I got the jetting such that it's burning Super techniplate very cleanly. Running a different taper needle than I have used before and it's working great. This is no easy task with a five hunny as they are typically fat down low decent in the midrange, lean to the point of detonation under load at 3/4 throttle and rich on top.
I always liked fat needles ,and lean pilots and mains
Was taught if the bike idles ,it is too rich on the pilot ,10-15 seconds it should die if the pilot is right .
 
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bwalker

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I always liked fat needles ,and lean pilots and mains
Was taught if the bike idles ,it is too rich on the main ,10-15 seconds it should die if the pilot is right .
I run the pilot lean to the point it bogs with the air screw 1.5 turns out. Then I play with needle diameter, slide cutaway and needle taper till it runs perfect. I then lean the main out till the plug chop is cocoa brown or till it mkes the most power while loaded, which is typically a hair on the fat side.
 

junkman

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I run the pilot lean to the point it bogs with the air screw 1.5 turns out. Then I play with needle diameter, slide cutaway and needle taper till it runs perfect. I then lean the main out till the plug chop is cocoa brown or till it mkes the most power while loaded, which is typically a hair on the fat side.
That's how i was told to do it from several pro racers and engine builders ,luckily my builder got me a starting point and had his own needles made to save a lot of time for me ,they said ddj or dgh ,i can not remember now ,it is written on my shop wall somewhere so i did not forget .
 

bwalker

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That's how i was told to do it from several pro racers and engine builders ,luckily my builder got me a starting point and had his own needles made to save a lot of time for me ,they said ddj or dgh ,i can not remember now ,it is written on my shop wall somewhere so i did not forget .
I'm currently running a DGN which in OEM numbers is a R1472J. The richer 14 taper really helps them at 3/4 throttle and the 72 straight section leans out the bottom nicely.
 

junkman

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Used to have all this stuff memorized ,have not had a 2 stroke atv for over 10 years now ,forgot my sizes now ,i think i used to run a 50 or 52 pilot ,172 seems to jump out for a main size ,i need to look on my shop wall still to see what needle i ran ,i remember it was in the 4th clip ,i am still at work ,carb was a 38 air stryler modded to 39 mm ,had a 302 cc jug
 
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