What is the best MS390 cylinder kit?

[Mastermind]

I have one of these to rebuild. Don't know crap about these things.

 

[Nutball]

I think the best bet is Meteor. I wouldn't trust a chinese cylinder to fit together as well, but I have never used any 390 cylinder kits.

 

[Stump Shot]

STIHL

 

[farminkarman]

I have one of these to rebuild. Don't know crap about these things.

Are you going to massage the ports at all? If yes, I would say OEM is obviously best, but I wouldn’t mind using a Dukes kit. If you are just going to run it, then perhaps meteor would be ok.

 

[Mastermind]

View attachment 357978
Are you going to massage the ports at all? If yes, I would say OEM is obviously best, but I wouldn’t mind using a Dukes kit. If you are just going to run it, then perhaps meteor would be ok.
View attachment 357979

Got one of those. Thank you Greg. Customer ain't interested in buying a top end that cost more than the saw is worth.

 

[Mastermind]

I think the best bet is Meteor. I wouldn't trust a chinese cylinder to fit together as well, but I have never used any 390 cylinder kits.

Meteor jugs that I've seen were the worst of any aftermarket jugs.

 

[farminkarman]

Got one of those. Thank you Greg. Customer ain't interested in buying a top end that cost more than the saw is worth.

I get it. I put one on a friend’s 290. With a little port work, muffler mod & timing advance, it was a respectable saw.

 

[huskihl]

All this Chinese/Taiwanese shít is starting to make Tecomec look really good. Shame

 

[jacob j.]

All this Chinese/Taiwanese shít is starting to make Tecomec look really good. Shame

The Tecomec stuff I got back in the day was pretty good, of course this was 20 years ago. I think most of it was made in Turkey back then.

 

[dall]

View attachment 357978
Are you going to massage the ports at all? If yes, I would say OEM is obviously best, but I wouldn’t mind using a Dukes kit. If you are just going to run it, then perhaps meteor would be ok.
View attachment 357979

Got one of those. Thank you Greg. Customer ain't interested in buying a top end that cost more than the saw is worth.

i usually get the ones from dukes


they are easy to take apart and put together

 

[Wilhelm]

What are You doing wasting Your time on a fried clamshell for?!

Not that its any of my business, but I still wonder.

It is either OEM quality, or AM questionability - either way keep in mind Your customer will hold You responsible for the saws overhaul.
I am no longer messing with other peoples saws, this very last one was a 3 months dragged out mess (parts out of stock) that still needs financial sorting.

Anyway, good luck!

 

[Wilhelm]

Got one of those. Thank you Greg. Customer ain't interested in buying a top end that cost more than the saw is worth.

Fixing chainsaws is expensive, there is a point where parting a saw out is more viable than rebuilding.
I have a 9010 which will get fixed, but I also own a botched purchase 5105 that might get parted out.

 

[Mastermind]

What are You doing wasting Your time on a fried clamshell for?!

Not that its any of my business, but I still wonder.

It is either OEM quality, or AM questionability - either way keep in mind Your customer will hold You responsible for the saws overhaul.
I am no longer messing with other peoples saws, this very last one was a 3 months dragged out mess (parts out of stock) that still needs financial sorting.

Anyway, good luck!

Fixing it as a favor for someone.

 

[Wilhelm]

Fixing it as a favor for someone.

I have had favors backfire at my expense, that may make me a little grumpy on the topic.

Used good condition OEM might be the best choice.

 

[whitesnake]

Cross performance??

 

[isaaccarlson]

I have one with all oem parts that I ported. It's a very respectable saw and will thoroughly trounce my stock 372xp oe. (My ported 350 will whip both of them)

I put a 1/2 or 5/8" outlet pipe on the muffler and drilled the baffle holes bigger, but left the baffle in.
The exhaust and intake were widened.
The piston ears were removed.
Transfers were pretty much left alone. The plating in the transfers was nearly impervious to the carbide cutter and dulled it quickly, so I left them alone. I might go back in some time and raise/widen them, but it works very well right now.
Port timing is as follows: Intake: 82 Exhaust: 98 Transfers: 123

The top of the piston could be ground to effectively raise the transfers.

they make a pop-up piston for the ms390, but I don't have one.

 

[Mastermind]

Cross performance??

Out of stock.

 

[Stevetheboatguy]

Out of stock.

Pff...... You should have asked.....

We all have our stash of goodies.



Steven

 

[isaaccarlson]

I want to see where this goes.

@Mastermind I run a 28" full comp bar on mine most of the time and it pulls it well.

 

[isaaccarlson]

I made a little drawing of what I am talking about if anyone didn't understand what I was talking about. I included stock and ported transfer aiming.

In the following picture, the shaded areas are lowered with a taper, so the end closest to the center of the piston fades out and the end on the edge of the piston is the depth of the transfer adjustment desired. The only limiting factor here is the depth to the ring. You want to leave a little meat above the ring. You don't have to taper in very far for small adjustments, but you want to taper in much more for bigger adjustments. You want the charge to stick to the top of the piston, not get launched up off of it. You can taper all the way to the center if you want/need to.