So in the quest to follow ChrisPA's advice on a cheap project I was trying to put a G621 clone so I bought this
https://www.ebay.com/itm/X-BULL-20-Bar-Gasoline-Powered-Chainsaw-62cc-Engine-2-Cycle-Chain-Saw/222814864432?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 thinking it was one with slightly different plastics the clutch cover looked way too small to be hiding an external clutch of a G5000 clone. I figured I could buy a 30 pack of top ends kits for $6 each on alibaba and I could try crazy *s-word porting for laughs.
Then when it arrived, sadness, I didnt realize the G5000 clones came as a 62cc.
But the case does kind of look like a G621?
And the transfers dont look like the other G5000 clones. I didnt feel like I needed to do anything to them, except they didnt deburr the transfers before chroming it so I did have to hit the transfer with the stone after tapering the ports. You can see the exhaust port was dead flat on the top and all I did was make it as wide as I could to clear the exhaust bolts. The bore is 45mm, which means the stroke must be 38mm if the stated displacement is correct.
Then I just took the flash off the intake elbow and tried to match the carb as well as I could. Throttle plate is like 14mm, venturi looks to m 13mm based off that. This is a WT carb? Theres no casting marks on the carb anywhere besides the junon lable, and really on any part of the saw.
And then I pillaged the ports with my makita die grinder. I tried to turn the rpm all the way down to not take too much out but instead I just bounced around the port and made a mess, learning I guess. All I did to the exhaust was widen it from 25mm to 30mm, the pockets for the exhaust bolts are 35mm apart so thats as wide as I wanted to go. For the intake all I did was widen it the same amount, make the bottom of the port flatter and match the rubber intake boot.
Muffler was already really open,I wouldnt have ground off the crimp if I could do it again. All I needed to do was make the inlet larger than the exhaust port on the head, and add those holes under the cover. And since I opened the thing up I just drilled out the "baffle" for the sake of it. I kept the bottom bit of crimp and then just tig'ed it back together with no filler and like 20 amps. I also had the belt sand the *f-word out of the flange side so it had a prayer to seal without the gasket, wasnt even in the ballpark of flat.
So basically I was disappointed as soon as I saw the external clutch, so I didnt time it. I did pull the base gasket and didnt check squish either way, just said *f-word it. Anyways I bought it because a 30" spruce fell across the path in my woods over the winter and it would have taken a month of sundays with my mac3200 to cut that up to move, so I figured I'd use this anyways. I knew the chain would be crap but I didnt want to buy a new chain until I knew exactly what was going to be on it, being a chinese crap saw. Its a 76 link .325 chain by the way. Holy hell, how do you suck so bad at making a chain? It came in a bag that had Oregon graphics on it, looked like the guy didnt give a *f-word grinding it, some of the teeth were burnt, some were not sharpened far enough, and some it looked like he just forgot to hit at all. I got at it with the roller guide and it just got worse. Some of the teeth are so hard the file just skates over them unless you really bear down and work for it, some were so soft that they clogged up the file like they were aluminum, heights were all over the place. After the first tank of 40:1 the damn thing needed to be sharpened on the soft teeth, like yeah they're that bad.
Anyways it actually runs pretty great after leaning it way way out. Oils a reasonable amount out of the box. I actually can't lean on it hard enough to stall it in the wood without using the dogs, which is pretty impressive to me. It seems like it cuts best at a slower speed, I should take a video and use the spectrograph app to figure out the rpm, but it sounds like it drops ~2k rpm from free rev to where it seems happiest when cutting, I bet it would move some serious wood with a non *s-wordty chain.
But here's where the question is, should I change to a 3/8" chain and just deal with having a torque monster saw and lay on it, or is there a carb that uses similar links and has an external impulse line I could fit fairly easily. Linkage and impulse/fuel lines are the big concern since I can 3d print a different intake runner out of nylon or urethane, then I would consider actually timing it, doing math, and changing port timing.