High Quality Chainsaw Bars Husqvarna Toys Hockfire Saws

Video: 2166 low power, stalling. Diagnosis?

davidwyby

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Ran good when I first got it recently after I repaired the stripped spark plug threads with “save a thread” insert. Pretty nice clean ‘13 that came from
a tree co and looks like they didn’t use it much. Have used it a little a couple of times. Seems to be going soft and today started stalling after I noodled a mesquite slab for my wife.

Plug looks lean. H is all the way out, L is close. *limiters are still installed*

Doesn’t race or run crazy much like saws I’ve had get air leaks, so maybe fuel supply? @Benwa suggested checking the tank vent. Any other suggestions for when I get around to looking at it?
Thanks
 
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LouCi4er

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Saw seems to run very low compression.Did you check it if it's scored?
 

timg

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Grab handle looks tweaked toward the brake handle on that saw. It's also moving around alot. Possible fuel line chaffed/pin hole or being pinched. Lee is spot on!!

Sent from my XT1635-01 using Tapatalk
 

davidwyby

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@LouCi4er compression feels low cutting and when pulling starter but I pulled muffler and it looks ok. This is the one I got with stripped spark plug threads and put an insert in. I wonder if there might be an issue there. Seems doubtful.


@timg Now that you mention it, my knuckles were hitting the brake noodling. Good observation.

Thanks all! I will report back.
 

mgr1

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Thats a lean mixture for me.
 

davidwyby

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Yeah I was hoping I just had a tuning issue until I realized adjustments were close to the stops and it flat died.


Here are pics of *when I first got it and fixed the threads.*

I also found my comment on first impressions cutting with it that it had more grunt than the 6100, but the inverse has become true. (Obviously). At first I thought it was just from hanging the 28” on it. 4C09B0A7-89DE-44EA-ADAD-F8020ED8FE3B.jpeg412D92B0-5789-4704-9F1E-2FA5483A8124.jpegDA0408E9-D297-4DE7-BA06-AEDB8F9EDC59.jpeg4E79269F-CBDD-48D7-9B2B-CB163B1DC711.jpeg
 
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Lee H

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That plug don't look good at all. Your way lean for one reason or another.
 

davidwyby

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Messed with it a minute before I left this am.


@mgr1 that was when I got it. Here is now. The spark plug insert doesn’t look right, maybe backed out? Also what I think is the tank vent isn’t hooked up but I didn’t have time to test. A0B2F333-2E69-4254-876D-2A11C3F82FE1.jpeg2F882F49-B6B6-4877-9FB0-85A60CA6FCF1.jpeg
 

mgr1

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Spray soap water arround the sparkplug, few Pulls and you can see as there is a leak.

Control Every part from the fuel supply before you toast that topend.
 

afleetcommand

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With any of the X-torqs, be a 2166,2172, 372, 365 when it acts up the FIRST thing u should do is a simple "brake clean" test on the PRO side , get a can of brake parts cleaner, NOT carb cleaner; spray a little brake clean under the clutch ( bar and chain off obviously, side cover too ) when the saw is idling. If it stall's, you found your issue. If it doesn't , then go into saw mechanic basics, fuel line, pulse line, carb kit, intake boot etc. If you catch a bearing failure fast enough on those often it's simply replacing the bearings and u are good to go. If you keep running it to failure most likely the saw is a parts saw needed a set of cases as the bearing pockets will be beat open to the point they leak around the bearing itself along with all the other things that happen when bits and pieces get pumped around a saw. To anyone with an X-torq that begins to run "funny", brake clean test, can make the subsequent decisions much easier. And btw, bearing materials do nasty things to cylinders...low compression will follow. SOME times pulling the muffler screen can give u a clue as well....and plastic like junk in there?? If so that's your bearings cages. :)There is no down side to a "brake clean" test...lots of up sides, cheap way of finding air leaks from a variety of places.
 
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davidwyby

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Always check first the last thing you worked on. I held the saw so the plug was vertical and puddled soapy water around it. Got sprayed in the face with water with a little tug. Massive air leak. Insert is cocked high on one side in relation to the recessed seal area in the cyl. When I got it I used an insert tool that follows the original threads. Maybe it was originally threaded crooked and someone overtightened it and stripped it. I don’t know how it sealed at first. I was too excited to notice I guess.


Now the question is how to fix. I had planned to at least grind the transfers and BGD, maybe port. So I could weld and rethread if I tore it down. But I’d like to wait to do all that until summer.
 

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davidwyby

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Had a blast today.

Went to Mess with this thing again tonight and turns out the short insert I used came loose. I don’t like these. I think we have some other options at work. 54B196B4-C804-49F8-87FB-871BAADB9076.jpeg
 

LouCi4er

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I am glad you found the problem.Did you use any kind of thread locker?From what i can see in the pic it seems you did so it is kind of strange how it got loose.Maybe a beaten up threads in the cylinder?Give it a try with the insert you have there,just check to not touch the piston at tdc,i don't like that it is a little longer than the plug.I it won't hold,then you might have to send the cylinder to someone for fixing it.2166 are damm to good saws.I really like the straight handle and the red color.
 

cuinrearview

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I've only tried that type of insert once and it didn't work for me. Even following the treads it got just a little bit off and that's all it takes with that much pressure. If you end up needing a jug David I have a couple.
 
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