It’s currently a little smaller, but I will go back in and open it up to the max soon, I am playing around with a 372xp oe and will probably swap it on there and see how each saw likes it
)ROFL! To be fair they do make a product saying it's good for exhaust part sealing, not same as being the body of something (kinda like how temps in the chamber are higher than aluminum's melting point but we don't..usually..melt pistons)Could he just make the entire muffler out of one gigantic chunk of JB Weld?
These look AMAZING, what considerations when buying? Surely tin/lead won't be strong/heat-resistant enough for muff usage (affixing deflectors)
If one already has torches (butane & propane, various sizes), is there any "kit" you know of for "1-off" usage? I realllllly wanted to go the brazing route but turned out it'd be cheaper to just buy a muff that's already got it done professionally, than buy all the goops individually to affix a deflector -- kept googling hoping for some small-volume "kit" but to no avail, any suggestions?
Outta curiosity, if you're seeking someone locally w/o knowing anyone (IE using facebook/craigslist/etc), would be real interested how it went & how you phrased your request, am in similar spot now pondering if I wanna get away from nuts&bolts
May I ask what size(s), specifically, you guys are using? I'm interested in-theory, and for my 660's, and have worked with the ~60%-exhaust-flange figure for my 660 but subsequently saw videos of guys with bigger holes (in the proper location IE rearwards, not short circuiting the exhaust pulse's "kickback" at the flange) getting more power than mine, in fact they went a size bigger (maybe 3X the OEM primary hole!) and it was still picking up power (sadly they didn't continue, to see where it drops off!! This is so important, because being a lil under that point is fine, going past it is a real error!)
Anyone ever try JB's "Exhaust" product?? Not for affixment / securing anything but as a gasket-maker, have always hated that, for clean mate-up's on mufflers, I can only rely on clean surfaces & tight bolts, no gaskets/goops/etc, their brand has never let me down and they make (2) exhaust products.. (again I'm strictly referring to using it for gaskets only, like the gasket under the deflector that you affix w/ nuts&bolts
ROFL! To be fair they do make a product saying it's good for exhaust part sealing, not same as being the body of something (kinda like how temps in the chamber are higher than aluminum's melting point but we don't..usually..melt pistons)
These look AMAZING, what considerations when buying? Surely tin/lead won't be strong/heat-resistant enough for muff usage (affixing deflectors)
If one already has torches (butane & propane, various sizes), is there any "kit" you know of for "1-off" usage? I realllllly wanted to go the brazing route but turned out it'd be cheaper to just buy a muff that's already got it done professionally, than buy all the goops individually to affix a deflector -- kept googling hoping for some small-volume "kit" but to no avail, any suggestions?
Outta curiosity, if you're seeking someone locally w/o knowing anyone (IE using facebook/craigslist/etc), would be real interested how it went & how you phrased your request, am in similar spot now pondering if I wanna get away from nuts&bolts
May I ask what size(s), specifically, you guys are using? I'm interested in-theory, and for my 660's, and have worked with the ~60%-exhaust-flange figure for my 660 but subsequently saw videos of guys with bigger holes (in the proper location IE rearwards, not short circuiting the exhaust pulse's "kickback" at the flange) getting more power than mine, in fact they went a size bigger (maybe 3X the OEM primary hole!) and it was still picking up power (sadly they didn't continue, to see where it drops off!! This is so important, because being a lil under that point is fine, going past it is a real error!)
Did you give up on the spot welder? Or it just won’t fit into the tighter spots? Been thinking about one
SO many thanks SS!!! How many inches of soldering would it be fair for me to expect out of that kit? IE doing 3" per deflector (1" on (3) sides per deflector)
"Spot welder".....I'm picturing some mini-welder setup, "welding for guys whose workshop is whatever table's clear-enough for a tarp to be tossed-down" lol, have wanted to get a welding setup but never had plans for anything large, GG look into "spot welders" but would be eager for any entry-levels here (welding is the 1 big gap in my "handyman arsenal" and gotta cover it at some point, if it's $50 for silver-solder to do a few deflectors, or $75-125 for a "spot welder" that I'd be able to keep using, I'd be all over the latter!!)
Seems some saws don't benefit too much, have been VERY intrigued by this would love hearing ANYONE elaborate on why some saws benefit so much when others don't, I mean obviously it goes w/o saying "Those that got gains were more choked-up", obviously, but what I'm getting at is why one company's non-strato unit would have the tightest exhaust-exit // exhaust-flange ratio you've ever seen (2511t) while others (ms660) have OEM openings a bit over 50%-flange-area..
ROFL it's equal parts comforting & worrisome that someone like you is still approaching it that way, sounds like how I describe my stuff "Hack hack hack my way til it works" lol, obviously you're doing it on another level but think your passage here shreds my idea of "1 product that'd let me always, continuously affix small metals"
SO many thanks SS!!! How many inches of soldering would it be fair for me to expect out of that kit? IE doing 3" per deflector (1" on (3) sides per deflector)
Also:
- I'm good w/ paints, fiberglass etc (and can grind/cleanup well) but never worked hot-metals like this, I can tell this is "gotta have the feel" to do it right, which to me is simply full-seal (aesthetics don't matter or rather i can't be arsed the time&$ for them in this instance!) Would hate getting this thinking I'll get 2 or 3 deflectors affixed, only to find myself next week "ordering kit #2, pretty sure I can move-on from test-scraps" lol!
- What metals are problematic here? If I'm "getting it" then this silver works on both steel 660's, and SS 2511's, is that the case? Are these 2 steels going to generally work w/ all the same welding/brazing/fluxing products? (I ask because my understanding is their being ferrous makes it a Yes but wanna know for sure)
"Spot welder".....I'm picturing some mini-welder setup, "welding for guys whose workshop is whatever table's clear-enough for a tarp to be tossed-down" lol, have wanted to get a welding setup but never had plans for anything large, GG look into "spot welders" but would be eager for any entry-levels here (welding is the 1 big gap in my "handyman arsenal" and gotta cover it at some point, if it's $50 for silver-solder to do a few deflectors, or $75-125 for a "spot welder" that I'd be able to keep using, I'd be all over the latter!!)
Seems some saws don't benefit too much, have been VERY intrigued by this would love hearing ANYONE elaborate on why some saws benefit so much when others don't, I mean obviously it goes w/o saying "Those that got gains were more choked-up", obviously, but what I'm getting at is why one company's non-strato unit would have the tightest exhaust-exit // exhaust-flange ratio you've ever seen (2511t) while others (ms660) have OEM openings a bit over 50%-flange-area..
For how you describe affixing it, that's basically what I do, I make the surfaces as-if I'm prepping them for paint or glassing, I put heavy marine-grease on the interfaces and drill my pilot holes BUT I use nuts&bolts, have never tried self-tappers would be far too fearful of their failure (surprised to hear they worked at all to be honest, w/ the higher-displacement units I've found a need to tighten everything down to levels I never did on 60cc and smaller saws, 90cc's rattles everything loose would be interested if others are having luck w/ self-tap screws!
Someone posted riv-nuts which look fantastic, gonna be seeking a pack of them at local spots today (hoping for proper size, otherwise it's just easiest to use nut&bolt, and grind-off the excess bolt-shaft where it protrudes from the nut inside the muffler....we're not using acoustics in our mufflers so "smoothness of flow" is only important insofar as "the whole system" not rough edges inside it, if that makes sense...all that matters is that exhaust pulse can expand and put pressure on the flange before it escapes the muff, so we can prevent excess charge-spill, which is the best we can hope for from canned-mufflers!)
Also, carb-tuning after muffler mods: Can anyone explain this "ELI5"? ("Explain like I'm 5"), I know the standard refrain would be "Open/CCW your H&L jets because you're now 'flowing more' through the unit" but, kinda embarrassing to say this but after muffler mods I rarely feel the machine needs much of anything...I should be clear I do not "over-do" them, but am not asserting that's the point....my thinking/curiosity is that this advice is basically conflating the richness of mixture coming-from the intake, 12.5:1 to 12.8:1 or whatever, but a higher-flow setup wouldn't be asking for changes in richness, but rather flow-through (IE the proper move wouldn't be "turn up the carb's richness" it'd be "get a new carb w/ appropriately up-sized throat", no? Thanks for any elaboration on this!
ROFL it's equal parts comforting & worrisome that someone like you is still approaching it that way, sounds like how I describe my stuff "Hack hack hack my way til it works" lol, obviously you're doing it on another level but think your passage here shreds my idea of "1 product that'd let me always, continuously affix small metals"
