Trees you've cut

[huskyboy]

View attachment 271431

Not a hickory, but no deep conventional either. More times than not I slick stump hickory so as to not get fiber pull. Same with walnut, no real face just clip the spurs off and slick cut it.

So making a sloped back cut like in your first picture is more ideal than straight cuts? Just curious. Learned something new today.

 

[so il logger]

Reminds me of jumping stuff off the stump with a small full faced dutchman.


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Exactly, does that back cut look sloped to you??

Lmao!!

 

[so il logger]

So making a sloped back cut like in your first picture is more ideal than straight cuts? Just curious. Learned something new today.

Not sure what you think your seeing. Its faced outta the stump, with a small snipe outta the butt. Back is flat

Do you gol fall everything with the lean?

 

[Skeans1]

So making a sloped back cut like in your first picture is more ideal than straight cuts? Just curious. Learned something new today.

Have you ever slipped something off the stump to the side or backwards? There’s a place for a sloping back cut.


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[woodfarmer]

Here’s a couple Ash I cut, my feet were put to the fire for poor cutting practices, but it works for me. Around here we go with 3 clean sides so the notch doesn’t come into affect. I use a small notch and stay right on the throttle as the tree is going over which is what some have issue with as it leaves a very small hinge but that is what prevents fibre pull in the Ash. Nipping the corners and sometimes boring out the heart leave a hinge on either side the size of a 2x4.

 

[so il logger]

A gol cut white oak from years ago. Notice it cracked one corner. Huge deal? No..

But if I hadn't set the hinge and then clipped the trigger I could have probably had the time to remove more material to keep it all intact. With white oak it don't take much hinge to crack them. Cutting a little relief to allow fiber flex will head this off to an extent

 

[CLEARCUT]

I like to use a conventional face-cut sometimes when on flat ground or when putting a tree slightly uphill when there is no danger of it coming back. It keeps the stumps low which is generally a good thing. As you can see in the second picture, I didn’t have to flush-butt a huge amount off to square it up for bucking.
Steep ground is obviously different, as we are generally putting them down the hill, and it would be wasting wood to use a conventional face, not to mention that the face wouldn’t just fall out.

 

[Skeans1]

View attachment 271496 View attachment 271497 View attachment 271498 I like to use a conventional face-cut sometimes when on flat ground or when putting a tree slightly uphill when there is no danger of it coming back. It keeps the stumps low which is generally a good thing. As you can see in the second picture, I didn’t have to flush-butt a huge amount off to square it up for bucking.
Steep ground is obviously different, as we are generally putting them down the hill, and it would be wasting wood to use a conventional face, not to mention that the face wouldn’t just fall out.

Some of those would be a good excuse to use a block face the only bad thing is it can take more time and really is it worth the extra time in the 3rd and 4th generation wood?


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[so il logger]

^^^ Agreed

I use conventional daily. But like you, I don't start the face 12-18" above the plane. Short conventional I guess...

This whole gol ideology has guys putting crazy tall faces in and with the right log it is causing the lower foot or sometimes more to get rejected for rotary stuff. Log is 16' on one side and 15' on the other type stuff. Not everyone bucks it off and then they are pissed when they are cut short

 

[CLEARCUT]

There is a point though, where our productivity would suffer if we tried to make every stump in the dirt. It’s fairly tiring to back-bar an excessive amount, particularly on steep ground. So we “dawg in”. It raises the stump a little bit, but is more productive. This is what works for me.

 

[CLEARCUT]

Or you can just do what @HYPERSAWS does.

 

[huskyboy]

View attachment 271487

A gol cut white oak from years ago. Notice it cracked one corner. Huge deal? No..

But if I hadn't set the hinge and then clipped the trigger I could have probably had the time to remove more material to keep it all intact. With white oak it don't take much hinge to crack them. Cutting a little relief to allow fiber flex will head this off to an extent

But if you used your 395 or 500i you wouldn’t have cracked that one corner . Those saws make a guy a better timber cutter than a 660 right? I read it on the forums so it must be true.

 

[Red97]

But if you used your 395 or 500i you wouldn’t have cracked that one corner . Those saws make a guy a better timber cutter than a 660 right? I read it on the forums so it must be true.

Yep, would have had enough to power through the pinch, while slick stumping.

 

[Coltont]

Chit seems tense in here. Hands are getting clamy.

 

[silveradol9h]

View attachment 271506View attachment 271507View attachment 271508There is a point though, where our productivity would suffer if we tried to make every stump in the dirt. It’s fairly tiring to back-bar an excessive amount, particularly on steep ground. So we “dawg in”. It raises the stump a little bit, but is more productive. This is what works for me.

You sure do get to see some pretty country.

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[Coltont]

Well this is part of some trees I cut. Peeled the bark, dried it and going to use it to cover a wall or two in my new place.

 

[so il logger]

But if you used your 395 or 500i you wouldn’t have cracked that one corner . Those saws make a guy a better timber cutter than a 660 right? I read it on the forums so it must be true.

Well this is part of some trees I cut. Peeled the bark, dried it and going to use it to cover a wall or two in my new place.

That's awesome, how did you get it to peel without breaking?

 

[Coltont]

That's awesome, how did you get it to peel without breaking?

That's the tricky part. Cut it in like june when the sap is really pushing. Take your time cut a ring around it at your desired legenth, and a straight cut legenth wise then a stanley wonder bar to peel it off the log. We have a big basket for on the front of the skidder. Carry it carefully to it. Put a pallet or 2 on the garage floor and lay it on it, lumber stickers in between. Another pallet on top and ratchet strap them tight.

 

[Nathan lassley]

I found 1 more tree removal on our hazard tree report...number 31 eucalyptus.

 

[tickbitintn]

Well this is part of some trees I cut. Peeled the bark, dried it and going to use it to cover a wall or two in my new place.

Is that ash or tulip poplar?

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