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Thinned the wheel

Alderman

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Once you get a decent grind on a chain is it any easier to do a touch up if you don’t tear the chain up too much in the wood, dirt and rocks?


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PA Dan

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Once you get a decent grind on a chain is it any easier to do a touch up or you don’t tear the chain up too much in the wood, dirt and rocks?


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Should be a breeze but you will still have to set the grinder back up for that chain.
 

Duane(Pa)

It's the chain...
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Once you get a decent grind on a chain is it any easier to do a touch up or you don’t tear the chain up too much in the wood, dirt and rocks?


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Yes. It will get exponentially easier and faster. The learning curve is steep. If frustration sets in, walk away. If your eyes are tired, get some cheaters or a loupe of some type to get some magnification. Also, keep asking questions here. Everybody gets some benefits from the discussion...
 

Duane(Pa)

It's the chain...
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Yes. It will get exponentially easier and faster. The learning curve is steep. If frustration sets in, walk away. If your eyes are tired, get some cheaters or a loupe of some type to get some magnification. Also, keep asking questions here. Everybody gets some benefits from the discussion...
Second sharpening on some Raisman .325 Edge of wheel was getting too thin for 3/8, but pretty sweet for the smaller .325 tooth.
 

huskihl

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Should be a breeze but you will still have to set the grinder back up for that chain.
I needed to simplify things a little bit. I set the chain stop for how sharp of a cutter I want to make. I put an angle finder on top of the tooth and roll the tooth forward until I get 30*. That’s about as blunt or “tough” of a cutter as I can get. If I’m grinding work chains, I don’t touch the chain thumbwheel anymore. If my corner is low or high, I adjust only the height of the arm and the swingarm stop. Otherwise, you end up with all of your new chains very sharp, and all of your old chains very blunt. I needed some consistency
 
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