Thinned the wheel

[Alderman]

.075
Just had some old chain to play with.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[PA Dan]

Lower your arm until the wheel angle hits your corner.

 

[Alderman]

I’m having a hard time with that part. Still haven’t figured out what does what.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Moparmyway]

You shimmed your motor, raising the wheel. I’d suggest that you remove the shims, center the arm, and then see where you are at

 

[Alderman]

I only shimmed one side as it wasn’t the same side to side.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[Moparmyway]

I only shimmed one side as it wasn’t the same side to side.

What wasn't the same side to side ?
What was different ?
How did you determine what size shim to use ?

 

[CR888]

The square grinder guys are asking good questions for good reason to getchoo thinking. Taking the advice can be a huge shortcut to good looking chain.

 

[Alderman]

What wasn't the same side to side ?
What was different ?
How did you determine what size shim to use ?

The motor wasn’t level. Had to level the motor to get the wheel level. Shimmed one side to get the chain to hit the same height on each side.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[Moparmyway]

You are supposed to index the wheel to the chain holder, as using any chain will use a different cutter between left and right sides

I’d suggest that you remove the shim(s) and index the arm to the wheel using either the .050 or the .063 side of the chain holder.

Don’t even think about trying to level the motor or the wheel by shimming the motor to it’s mount, rather adjust the 3 legs of the stand untill your motor sits level

Indexing the arm to the wheel is seperate from leveling the motor

Instructions are below
Page 13 is what you wanna read carefully Sir

http://www.madsens1.com/PDF/howtousesimington.pdf

 

[mdavlee]

Some of those old ones do need shimmed to get the arm and wheel parallel from what I remember. They didn’t machine the bases as good as they could have.

The simple solution to me looks like you need to roll the chain holder further into the wheel the get the corner to intersect. If the tooth is screwed ip looking then you need to play with the height of the holder, wheel, or arm. I can’t remember which model you have so some is easily adjusted and some isn’t.

 

[huskihl]

My 451 came with two blue plastic shims underneath 1/4-20 nuts to shim up two sides of it out of the three motor bolts

 

[Duane(Pa)]

You can get that side beak from simply pushing too far with the swing arm. You have to watch carefully to see the top beak disappear and bingo you’re done! (With that tooth) Advancing the tooth on the disc controls the length.

 

[Duane(Pa)]

Kelly has a segment about shimming in the “what can go wrong” video

 

[Alderman]

Kelly has a segment about shimming in the what can go wrong video

I watched the video and it pretty much matched up to what was going on. The arm was hitting lower on one side as opposed to the other so I shimmed one side to getting it hitting the same on both sides.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Duane(Pa)]

A side beak will cut like a sum beach, but may not be very durable. A top beak won’t cut for sheet.

 

[Alderman]

I can see where having decent eyesight would be very helpful. Struggling here with old eyes that never were good to begin with.
Since I had the wheel so thin and didn’t have any more 3/8 to play with I tried to do a .325.
Still a little beak but to my untrained eyes I am hoping it was a step in the right direction. I’ve got to get into the woodlot to try it out.
If nothing else, reading and getting advise here has certainly been interesting. Lot of good info and I appreciate you all taking the time to send me the info.
I’m not too quick on figuring this out so thanks for giving me some slack.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[PA Dan]

Try what Mike said using the chain adjuster to push the tooth forward. That will make a blunter more durable top plate and eliminate that side beak.

 

[Alderman]

Been trying that a little at a time. Some of these today were really beaky so went back and adjusted to try and remove some of it. Seems a little adjustment goes a long way with these. I’m having fun if nothing else.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Alderman]

I have my chain holder disk just a little forward of center. I’ve read where moving the chain holder back will give a blunter angle and make a more durable tooth. Is it any easier to match the corner with a blunter angle?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[PA Dan]

I have my chain holder disk just a little forward of center. I’ve read where moving the chain holder back will give a blunter angle and make a more durable tooth. Is it any easier to match the corner with a blunter angle?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It should be the same with a sharp or blunt angle. I screw the stop out and keep bumping the cutter then check. Screw in a hair, bump check and repeat until I hit the corner. Then I lock the stop and proceed. I keep checking every other cutter to make sure I'm still where I want to be.