The underated 390xp

[Normzilla]

It’s been touched on already in this thread I think but does anyone else’s 390 run hot? Only saw I’ve set wood on fire with.
Sharp chain, oiling, clean and maintained.
Still love how smooth this saw

Never had an issue with mine. I'm curious ro hear others now.

 

[Hoser]

The one I torched was a punky 26” maple I wasn’t in the cut long at all on it but she lit up.
Either way the 390 and 288 are becoming my go-to’s for working the log pile just fun saws to run

 

[Normzilla]

The 592 is the nicest and most ergonomic saw i’ve held/used since 1985/6 luv this saw, even carrying old injuries it makes the day so much easier, if i were to have to carry the ms660 under the same conditions it aint gunna happen easy or it aint gunna happen at all. I ain't big or tall or anywhere near as strong these days either. And its the easiest starting saw of the twenty odd i own. Smokes my 660.

Nice. I believe it, after owning a 572 I can only imagine it's similar in feel of 592 comfort and anti vibration. The newer technology is fantastic there.

 

[Kelly Dodge]

My main daily use saws, are my 500i and My Stumpsot 572. But I have a ported 390 I traded a Stihl guy a MS 460 for years back. I think many overlook the 390, and IMO it has seemed underrated by many. All I can say is when I got mine my 395 started sitting in the truck. The 390 is more manageable to pack. Especially for hillside falling. Over a 66 or 395. And I have put some big wood on the ground, bucked the biggest logs, and cut big big stumps. I still use it, and it's been tough as nails. We were in a financial crunch about 5 or 6 years ago. I had to let a saw or two go. I had two good ole 288s and always been a huge 288 fan. But I thought I'd be crazy to sell a newer production saw, vs selling those 288s. So I let the 288s go. Ended up being glad I kept the 390. Great saws, tough plenty of power and smoother.

I agree I love my Husqvarna 390,

 

[David Young]

I don't think the 390s had crank problems as much - there was a run of earlier 385s that went through a lot of big end rod bearings but part of that was due to Husky's instruction to users to only run 50:1. Early 390s did have issues with the mounting ears on the cylinders cracking and breaking off. It was such a problem that two west coast shops developed their own external mounting systems for the 390 cylinders. Husky ten redesigned the 390 cylinder to stop that problem.

I have an XS385 and it's one of the best machines I own. I had a Mooberizer 385 that was a great timber-falling saw - it ended up with a faller buddy of mine. I'm building a stock 390 this winter and will be going through a stock 592 so I'll be able to test those two side by side.

good info JJ how can you tell if the 390 jug is one of the redesigned?

 

[pro94lt]

Hard to say a legend is underrated, That saw had a long long run and they were very very good saws to anyone who got one. I still have 2 385's that I have been abusing in my tree service for 15 years i guess. It was really ahead of its time as it was one of the first big saws that wouldn't make your hands tingle after running all day.

 

[Stump Shot]

I don't think the 390s had crank problems as much - there was a run of earlier 385s that went through a lot of big end rod bearings but part of that was due to Husky's instruction to users to only run 50:1. Early 390s did have issues with the mounting ears on the cylinders cracking and breaking off. It was such a problem that two west coast shops developed their own external mounting systems for the 390 cylinders. Husky ten redesigned the 390 cylinder to stop that problem.

I have an XS385 and it's one of the best machines I own. I had a Mooberizer 385 that was a great timber-falling saw - it ended up with a faller buddy of mine. I'm building a stock 390 this winter and will be going through a stock 592 so I'll be able to test those two side by side.

Jacob,
I'm dealing with a 385xp with a big rod end bearing starting to go out. Do you think fella would be better off with buying a new aftermarket New West made crank or going with a used one from a trashed 390xp. A new one from Husqvarna is out of the budget, or I wouldn't entertain such ideas.

 

[farminkarman]

Jacob,
I'm dealing with a 385xp with a big rod end bearing starting to go out. Do you think fella would be better off with buying a new aftermarket New West made crank or going with a used one from a trashed 390xp. A new one from Husqvarna is out of the budget, or I wouldn't entertain such ideas.

Steve, perhaps this is out of budget too, but it is actually cheaper than a crank by itself:

GENUINE SHORTBLOCK CRANKCASE ASSEMBLY FITS HUSQVARNA 390XP 598423801

GENUINE OEM PARTS

www.sawsalvage.co

 

[Stump Shot]

Steve, perhaps this is out of budget too, but it is actually cheaper than a crank by itself:

GENUINE SHORTBLOCK CRANKCASE ASSEMBLY FITS HUSQVARNA 390XP 598423801

GENUINE OEM PARTS

www.sawsalvage.co

It's the smarter buy, that's for sure.

 

[..X..]

It's the smarter buy, that's for sure.

For $220 a guy would be crazy not to go this route. What's a NWP crank go for? $100? Here you get new cases, bearings, seals and an OEM crank for $120 more??

Oh and he could probably sell his old cases for $50 at least.

 

[Stump Shot]

For $220 a guy would be crazy not to go this route. What's a NWP crank go for? $100? Here you get new cases, bearings, seals and an OEM crank for $120 more??

Oh and he could probably sell his old cases for $50 at least.

If it were to be a legit working saw, there would be no question that would be the route to take. Being that it's just a play saw for myself that I already have considerable cash into, gives the $50 AM crank an alure, albeit not without concern. Sadly, I did not find it out until the final assembly of the saw as it is just barely on the bad side and hard to notice. While adjusting the ignition timing is when it was found to be out a degree or so out confirmed by watching through the intake manifold of the source. Otherwise, I could have just as easily made it a parts saw, had I found out from the get-go and moved on to greener pastures.

 

[farminkarman]

I thought I might have had a bad crank in my 385 due to a rattle. Out of curiosity, I opened it up quick….thankfully the crank is fine, but piston is way toast, and the plating is wore through on the intake side of the jug. I have a new OEM 390 top end that will be going on I guess.

 

[Shane¹]

If it were to be a legit working saw, there would be no question that would be the route to take. Being that it's just a play saw for myself that I already have considerable cash into, gives the $50 AM crank an alure, albeit not without concern. Sadly, I did not find it out until the final assembly of the saw as it is just barely on the bad side and hard to notice. While adjusting the ignition timing is when it was found to be out a degree or so out confirmed by watching through the intake manifold of the source. Otherwise, I could have just as easily made it a parts saw, had I found out from the get-go and moved on to greener pastures.

Could you try to change just the big end bearing if you figured out what size it was? Also what about used I am sure someone on here has a used 390 crank. There is a used one on chainsawr if no one on here has one

 

[jacob j.]

Jacob,
I'm dealing with a 385xp with a big rod end bearing starting to go out. Do you think fella would be better off with buying a new aftermarket New West made crank or going with a used one from a trashed 390xp. A new one from Husqvarna is out of the budget, or I wouldn't entertain such ideas.

Steve -

I don't know anything about the New West cranks but I may have a used crank you can have. The newer cranks from the 390s are pretty tough and seem to be holding up very well. I'll check this weekend.

 

[Stump Shot]

Steve -

I don't know anything about the New West cranks but I may have a used crank you can have. The newer cranks from the 390s are pretty tough and seem to be holding up very well. I'll check this weekend.

Thank you kindly good sir, much appreciated.