STIHL The Official Stihl Chainsaws Thread

[SawAddictedFarmer]

Hi guys I’ve been a member and mostly lurker on here for a long time. My father recently passed away and I’m trying to sell a few saws for my mom that he had. Looking for advice on value.
He had a 044 with the slant fin (i think) and red lever. So far I cleaned up the 044 and took a few pics. It runs idles and oils good. He also had a couple 066’s, 020, 020av that I’ll be checking condition of and selling for her.
Thanks for any help

Sorry about your dad
Assuming the piston/cylinder are clean if I was going to sell one in that shape I'd probably ask $500 for starters. Now take into consideration I would put at least a hour of run time on it and check it over. Some guys don't have the skills to do so and I don't have a problem with that but I wouldn't sell a saw with out being absolutely sure it working properly. And if you sell a saw you'd better be damm sure your ready to stand behind it, it's hard to get rid of a bad reputation once you screw somebody up. Not saying you have to do 30 days or what not but if it's advertised as working it needs to work the first time the customer runs it. Good luck!

 

[lehman live edge slab]

Sorry about your dad
Assuming the piston/cylinder are clean if I was going to sell one in that shape I'd probably ask $500 for starters. Now take into consideration I would put at least a hour of run time on it and check it over. Some guys don't have the skills to do so and I don't have a problem with that but I wouldn't sell a saw with out being absolutely sure it working properly. And if you sell a saw you'd better be damm sure your ready to stand behind it, it's hard to get rid of a bad reputation once you screw somebody up. Not saying you have to do 30 days or what not but if it's advertised as working it needs to work the first time the customer runs it. Good luck!

Sorry about your father in my opinion if you start at 500$ for that saw you may be waiting some time for a sale. Couldn’t see the rewind side of the saw well enough to see the case by the muffler. That’s how you tell a 10mm vs 12mm saw because both can have a slant fin some people desire the 10mm but they are a bit weaker with the smaller rod also no matter what anyone says the “red lever” is a myth and they don’t have any special cylinders with more power. I’m thinking you start at 400$ plus shipping if going selling on any social media.

 

[Treematt]

Sorry about your father in my opinion if you start at 500$ for that saw you may be waiting some time for a sale. Couldn’t see the rewind side of the saw well enough to see the case by the muffler. That’s how you tell a 10mm vs 12mm saw because both can have a slant fin some people desire the 10mm but they are a bit weaker with the smaller rod also no matter what anyone says the “red lever” is a myth and they don’t have any special cylinders with more power. I’m thinking you start at 400$ plus shipping if going selling on any social media.

Thanks that helps. I don’t have enough threads on here to post a for sale ad so I’ll give it a try locally. What do I need to look for to know if it’s 10mm or 12? Just curious for future reference, I have another one that I’ll probably keep and wondered what size it was.

 

[Da dog man]

I'd be willing to bet there's pics and info on this forum regarding identifying 10 or 12 mm if I remember it's something to do with the case on fw side that u can see without taking anything apart

 

[lehman live edge slab]

I'd be willing to bet there's pics and info on this forum regarding identifying 10 or 12 mm if I remember it's something to do with the case on fw side that u can see without taking anything apart

It is the one gos at a 45 degree angle by muffler on rewind side case half, the other one is dished out like a u shape. Not 100% but the 45 degree angle one is 10mm i think.

 

[Sloughfoot]

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[lehman live edge slab]

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Had it backwards I guess

 

[Sloughfoot]

Had it backwards I guess

I can't keep it straight, either. I have to reference that photo every time one shows up for sale.

 

[Treematt]

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Thanks I'll have to check it out when I get home.

 

[eric4]

What tool do y'all use to split a MS462 crankcase? Seems like a traditional splitter wouldn't work with the design of the case... I'm going to be combining 2x 462's with broken halves, together (once I verify they are of the same case design since there are two).

The only thing I was able to find, was a fella who used a 'knocker' that threads onto the flywheel side of the crank, but I wasn't sure if that'd risk damaging things...

 

[lehman live edge slab]

What tool do y'all use to split a MS462 crankcase? Seems like a traditional splitter wouldn't work with the design of the case... I'm going to be combining 2x 462's with broken halves, together (once I verify they are of the same case design since there are two).

The only thing I was able to find, was a fella who used a 'knocker' that threads onto the flywheel side of the crank, but I wasn't sure if that'd risk damaging things...

You can tell that before splitting

 

[eric4]

You can tell that before splitting

I'm still waiting on one in the mail. Fingers crossed it's the same style case.

Working on another 462 m-tronic right now, and have everything assembled, but I'm not getting spark. Being new to m-tronics, perhaps the spark can't be tested in the same fashion, by grounding the plug on the cylinder head? I even used a different m-tronic carb, thinking the solenoid might control spark too, but still nothing.

Any pointers?

 

[hacskaroly]

Working on another 462 m-tronic right now, and have everything assembled, but I'm not getting spark. Being new to m-tronics, perhaps the spark can't be tested in the same fashion, by grounding the plug on the cylinder head?

I test my M-Tronic 261 by laying the spark plug on the cylinder and get spark that way (no issues). The M-Tronics have a specific flywheel, wiring harness and carb/solenoid set up, if you try to use a standard flywheel it won't work (or standard wiring harness/carb too). At least that is from my understanding watching a few videos of people converting their standard saw to M-Tronic.

 

[eric4]

I went thru all the connections, re-gapped the coil to .008, and with a hard yank of the cord, the spark is back! Saw fires on one pull now

 

[Sloughfoot]

026 bar studs. Can't get them loose. Tried locking bar nuts and vise grips.

What's the trick?

 

[hacskaroly]

026 bar studs. Can't get them loose. Tried locking bar nuts and vise grips.

What's the trick?

It's possible that they have some locktite on them and they are in there really good. Why do you have to replace them, boogered or bent?

 

[SawAddictedFarmer]

I took some out 8 in vise grips clamped supper tight.

 

[FergusonTO35]

This is what you need right here, I have this set and it works great.

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One trick an old machinist taught me is, install two grade 8 nuts and thread them down. Using two wrenches, tighten them into each other as much as you can. Now, use your wrench to turn just the bottom one to the left. The top nut will keep the bottom one from turning so that the whole stud will come out. Or it will break.

 

[hacskaroly]

Or it will break.

This would be my luck...lol

 

[Sloughfoot]

It's possible that they have some locktite on them and they are in there really good. Why do you have to replace them, boogered or bent?

Was worried that might be the case. Bar studs are good as new. I want the brake mechanism cover off to clean, put a new oil line in, get the oil pump out of the way to replace the crank bearing seal.