STIHL The Official Stihl Chainsaws Thread

[FergusonTO35]

I'm the type who drills ball joints and tie rod ends to screw in grease fittings. Trying to resist the urge to drill grease holes in my Stihl bar tips.

 

[Sloughfoot]

I'm the type who drills ball joints and tie rod ends to screw in grease fittings. Trying to resist the urge to drill grease holes in my Stihl bar tips.

Same here. Other day I pulled the axle from the wheel hub on our 4x4 to get a zerk in the new lower ball joint.

 

[hacskaroly]

Greased bar tips collect crud.

In my experience.

I agree, WD-40 to help loosen up the gear if needed, but other than that let the bar and chain oil do its work.

 

[lehman live edge slab]

I'm the type who drills ball joints and tie rod ends to screw in grease fittings. Trying to resist the urge to drill grease holes in my Stihl bar tips.

Wouldn’t help anyway, I’ve seen so many Stihl bar rails wear out before the tips ever quit under normal conditions. I’ve changed a few out on pro bars that guys bore cut with a lot but most regular cutting wears the rails out first.

 

[heimannm]

Fellow brought in a really whupped MS170, basically no compression. He really wants it going again (sentimental reasons...) and I'm leaning towards a China short block. I see them anywhere from around $25 to $130 (LRB). I'm not expecting a high quality unit for replacement but is there really any reason to spend an extra $100? Does anyone have experience with any of the bargain basement short blocks?

Thanks,

Mark

 

[heimannm]

I went ahead and tore the 170 apart, piston and cylinder look fine but compression is only 105 PSI.

Mark

 

[lehman live edge slab]

Sounds like new rings bearings and seals will do it maybe a piston

 

[heimannm]

Chris - do you know what the cylinder and piston measurements should be? I don't mind putting a piston in it, but I'd like to know the cylinder is still within specs.

Mark

 

[lehman live edge slab]

Chris - do you know what the cylinder and piston measurements should be? I don't mind putting a piston in it, but I'd like to know the cylinder is still within specs.

Mark

I don’t know for sure if my 170-180 repair manuals say but I will look this afternoon and let you know if it says.

 

[el33t]

Chris - do you know what the cylinder and piston measurements should be? I don't mind putting a piston in it, but I'd like to know the cylinder is still within specs.

Mark

I don't think there will be anything more than the standard cylinder/piston diameter of 37 mm and ring thickness of 1.2 mm.

If the chrome plating is still in good condition and you can't see the dull aluminum underneath, I wouldn't worry about the cylinder.

 

[lehman live edge slab]

Chris - do you know what the cylinder and piston measurements should be? I don't mind putting a piston in it, but I'd like to know the cylinder is still within specs.

Mark

Nothing in the repair manuals for measuring ect even the technical data sheets that I have. How clean was the exhaust screen on the saw if it still has one? Also not super sure how low 105 psi is on that saw didn’t think that they ran much more than 125-130 new.

 

[Mad Professor]

Chris - do you know what the cylinder and piston measurements should be? I don't mind putting a piston in it, but I'd like to know the cylinder is still within specs.

Mark

Nothing in the repair manuals for measuring ect even the technical data sheets that I have. How clean was the exhaust screen on the saw if it still has one? Also not super sure how low 105 psi is on that saw didn’t think that they ran much more than 125-130 new.

New P/C clearance should be ~0.002" on a small saw.

Long ago I was doing a bunch of 038 ----> 038M conversions and had access to good machinist tools. NOS OEM super and and mags were 0.002", NOS Italian Tecomec 038M was 0.0025".

On a 170 0.0015" should be enough with new piston, if you get to 0.003" piston might be loose fit. Don't forget to check ring gaps.

Quick and easy is use feeler gauges as go (0.0015"), and no go (0.003").

 

[edju1958]

Hi fellas,first time posting in this sticky.I've got an 045 AV Super that just died on my son yesterday - no spark.I suspect it's the switch because it'd been acting funny.The first time I had the saw running a few yrs.back,I went to shut it off & got knocked on my keister.Yesterday we fired it up to go out cutting & it didn't want to shut off.we had to toggle it back & forth & then it shut off.I talked with a guy who runs a local saw shop & he said he worked on an 045 recently & he had to tear the saw down completely just to change the switch.Is there any truth to this? I have a new switch for it,how big of a job is there to changing it out?Seems to me that the top cover comes off & it'll expose the switch.I noticed that the top cover is incorporated into the rear handle.Thanks for any & all input.

 

[hacskaroly]

Seems to me that the top cover comes off & it'll expose the switch.I noticed that the top cover is incorporated into the rear handle.Thanks for any & all input.

Yes, that is what it looks like to me, remove the top cover and then you will have access to the switch (though not 100% sure that the choke lever may be in the way).



The top cover/handle are all one part, just takes a few screws to remove it, possibly need to remove the front handle first.

 

[jacktheripper]

Compared some “working weights” of a few saws just now. Tanks full.

Stock flat top 066 1/2 wrap with 25” rollomatic es b/c: 22.8lbs

064 with 25” Sugi, full wrap, base plate, bare maxflo and scrench holder: 21.4lbs

440/460 hybrid with 28” Tsumura, full wrap, west coast cover, and full maxflo kit: 20.4lbs