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STIHL The Official Stihl Chainsaws Thread

Sloughfoot

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I'm the type who drills ball joints and tie rod ends to screw in grease fittings. Trying to resist the urge to drill grease holes in my Stihl bar tips.
Same here. Other day I pulled the axle from the wheel hub on our 4x4 to get a zerk in the new lower ball joint.
 
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lehman live edge slab

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I'm the type who drills ball joints and tie rod ends to screw in grease fittings. Trying to resist the urge to drill grease holes in my Stihl bar tips.
Wouldn’t help anyway, I’ve seen so many Stihl bar rails wear out before the tips ever quit under normal conditions. I’ve changed a few out on pro bars that guys bore cut with a lot but most regular cutting wears the rails out first.
 

heimannm

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Fellow brought in a really whupped MS170, basically no compression. He really wants it going again (sentimental reasons...) and I'm leaning towards a China short block. I see them anywhere from around $25 to $130 (LRB). I'm not expecting a high quality unit for replacement but is there really any reason to spend an extra $100? Does anyone have experience with any of the bargain basement short blocks?

Thanks,

Mark
 

heimannm

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Chris - do you know what the cylinder and piston measurements should be? I don't mind putting a piston in it, but I'd like to know the cylinder is still within specs.

Mark
 

lehman live edge slab

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Chris - do you know what the cylinder and piston measurements should be? I don't mind putting a piston in it, but I'd like to know the cylinder is still within specs.

Mark
I don’t know for sure if my 170-180 repair manuals say but I will look this afternoon and let you know if it says.
 

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Chris - do you know what the cylinder and piston measurements should be? I don't mind putting a piston in it, but I'd like to know the cylinder is still within specs.

Mark
I don't think there will be anything more than the standard cylinder/piston diameter of 37 mm and ring thickness of 1.2 mm.

If the chrome plating is still in good condition and you can't see the dull aluminum underneath, I wouldn't worry about the cylinder.
 

lehman live edge slab

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Chris - do you know what the cylinder and piston measurements should be? I don't mind putting a piston in it, but I'd like to know the cylinder is still within specs.

Mark
Nothing in the repair manuals for measuring ect even the technical data sheets that I have. How clean was the exhaust screen on the saw if it still has one? Also not super sure how low 105 psi is on that saw didn’t think that they ran much more than 125-130 new.
 

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Chris - do you know what the cylinder and piston measurements should be? I don't mind putting a piston in it, but I'd like to know the cylinder is still within specs.

Mark
Nothing in the repair manuals for measuring ect even the technical data sheets that I have. How clean was the exhaust screen on the saw if it still has one? Also not super sure how low 105 psi is on that saw didn’t think that they ran much more than 125-130 new.

New P/C clearance should be ~0.002" on a small saw.

Long ago I was doing a bunch of 038 ----> 038M conversions and had access to good machinist tools. NOS OEM super and and mags were 0.002", NOS Italian Tecomec 038M was 0.0025".

On a 170 0.0015" should be enough with new piston, if you get to 0.003" piston might be loose fit. Don't forget to check ring gaps.

Quick and easy is use feeler gauges as go (0.0015"), and no go (0.003").
 
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