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STIHL The Official Stihl Chainsaws Thread

67L36Driver

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Actually Stihl don’t make the bearings in their product. [emoji33]

But, when you order twenty thousand at a time, you can get ‘special features’.
 

PogoInTheWoods

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DDave may have a line on the FarmerTec specs as well as HLS. I'm sure the same bearing is sold in a variety of plastic bags with different names on em. Out of curiosity I asked Wolf Creek via their ebay listing for additional info and source of origin. It'll be interesting to see what they have to say.
 

sandmanxx

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DDave may have a line on the FarmerTec specs as well as HLS. I'm sure the same bearing is sold in a variety of plastic bags with different names on em. Out of curiosity I asked Wolf Creek via their ebay listing for additional info and source of origin. It'll be interesting to see what they have to say.

WELL - CHINA WON'T TELL ME LOL.. DANCED AROUND THE QUESTION - STATED IF MY UNIT IS A MS660 -
THEY FEEL IT WILL INTERCHANGE.

GUESS I SHOULD GET THE VICTORIA SECERT GIRLS TO EMAIL THEM .. I BET I CAN GET AN ANSWER AFTR A FEW EMAILS.
 

Cracker Boy

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For the price they're asking you could get the OEM if there's an honest Stihl dealer within 100 miles of you. Just priced a set yesterday for a 661 as a matter of fact. 14.49 and 16.99 respectively. Course the flywheel side is a common 6203 you can get anywhere for 6 bux anyway, so why not just go OEM for the PTO side?
Oem bearings have platic cage.id like to get oem bearings of popular saws take them in mic them go to like a miller bearing and get skf or timkens then document bearing numbers and make a chart.that would be way to go.
 

Definitive Dave

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Skf, slacker, etc won’t sell/make whatever the proprietary Stihl side for the saws but the China bearing mics out fine, I’ll send em to whoever wants to fondle them, big bearing factory on the Far East side makes em, they make bearings for different folks with different labels you would know that I have seen in oem swag and ex-mark equipments
The bigger “vendors” like farmertec and China bearing house are eager to sell enough of them to get their own cost down
 

sandmanxx

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I hate cell phones for posting in forums ..

Anyway - it's not OEM $$ vrs other $$ here. I just want the specs on that CEKN .

Noted RPM limits / load / etc .. Just wondering. The sales Dept typed back again - stated they have no idea what I am talking about SMH .
 

lehman live edge slab

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Skf, slacker, etc won’t sell/make whatever the proprietary Stihl side for the saws but the China bearing mics out fine, I’ll send em to whoever wants to fondle them, big bearing factory on the Far East side makes em, they make bearings for different folks with different labels you would know that I have seen in oem swag and ex-mark equipments
The bigger “vendors” like farmertec and China bearing house are eager to sell enough of them to get their own cost down
So I take it you’ve sold enough sets and had close to oem results as far as getting bad ones. I know doesn’t matter who makes the bearings a bad one happens once and awhile. Maybe I’ll try a set in my other 064 that needs them.
 

brandonstclair20

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So I take it you’ve sold enough sets and had close to oem results as far as getting bad ones. I know doesn’t matter who makes the bearings a bad one happens once and awhile. Maybe I’ll try a set in my other 064 that needs them.

I use to use aftermarket bearings and they seemed okay except for one that the seal pocket was too small for the seal. The oem ones do seem to spin better.


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PogoInTheWoods

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Received a response from Wolf Creek stating the bearings are sourced from (through?) NWP in Taiwan. A decent quality player in the AM game. Just bought a NWP 55 rancher p/c kit from Dave that was pretty nice for the price.
 

sandmanxx

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Anyone know if this is a stihl part / and what part it is or what exactly they to to??

They are M5 ( generically the nut / tube would be a standoff or spacer of some sort ) .. Plus the stud is a M5
Having said that and the fact they are M5 and in small stihl bag - I would guess they are OEM... I need
to figure out what part they are so I can get a few!


standoff.jpg
 

brandonstclair20

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Are Stihl clutches supposed to have this much space between the clutch and drum. I haven’t noticed this much space before.
b8e7b81bfbc2c159f75ea1ebdddd0862.jpg



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Canadian farm boy

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Are Stihl clutches supposed to have this much space between the clutch and drum. I haven’t noticed this much space before.
b8e7b81bfbc2c159f75ea1ebdddd0862.jpg



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What's the part number on that drum? Does the number start with 1128 or 1122?
 

Cracker Boy

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I hate cell phones for posting in forums ..

Anyway - it's not OEM $$ vrs other $$ here. I just want the specs on that CEKN .

Noted RPM limits / load / etc .. Just wondering. The sales Dept typed back again - stated they have no idea what I am talking about SMH .
Cell is all i use its tough.i get a lot of grammar comments fimor that reason lol
 

FergusonTO35

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Well, I may have the little 024 figured out. Apparently it was suffering from a small vacuum leak from carb to intake boot, a smear of Permatex no. 2 took care of that. Also, the original carb with OEM kit installed wouldn't hold tune. Had to constantly adjust it to do anything at all, one minute acted lean next minute acted rich.

Decided to try an aftermarket from Definitive Dave. Put it on this morning and ran for a couple of minutes. Instant huge improvement, she now runs consistent with the adjustment and idles way better. Should be able to try it out for real soon.
 

FergusonTO35

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Thanks. I tried it out on some random wood in the field while sighting in my muzzleloader for next weekend. The saw cuts great, at least as well as my Echo CS-400. It idles when you let go of the trigger, but after around 20 seconds the rpms start to drop and it dies. I'm thinking maybe the carb is just not adjusted right. The initial settings for the OEM carb are 1 turn out each. I just counted the turns, currently sitting at 3/4 out on the low and around 1-3/4 on the high. Any ideas as to what the settings should look like?
 

RI Chevy

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You have to adjust the LA screw to keep the L at the closest to about 1 turn as possible.
Back the LA screw out a bit and turn the L screw back out toward that 1 preset.
Should help the idle a bit.
 
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