STIHL The Official Stihl Chainsaws Thread

[MustangMike]

That timing advance helps, doesn't it???

My 044 likes to tune at about 15,000. My 440 at about 14,600. Both have base gasket delete, muff mods, and timing advance.

 

[RI Chevy]

Just asking, but is it fair to say that bigger saws max out at lower RPMs than smaller saws?
For example, 026 vs. 066.

 

[Canadian farm boy]

Just asking, but is it fair to say that bigger saws max out at lower RPMs than smaller saws?
For example, 026 vs. 066.

Kinda seems that way but there's exceptions to every rule.

 

[MustangMike]

I think the 066/660 usually turns a lower RPM because it has a longer stroke. I think most 044/440s, and even more so the hybrids, will rev with the best of them.

 

[lehman live edge slab]

Ended up running about 13,200 no load when cleaning up in cut. Might be little rich still because I tend to error on that side.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

13.5 for the 066/ms660 - Mine's at around 14,200 with a simple muffler mod and carb tweak.

Power band is 7k for an 026 tuned to 14k -- 9.5k for an 044/066 tuned to 14k and 13.5k respectively.

 

[MustangMike]

Yea, tuned my Flying Tiger 660 (w/Cross P&C) at 13,680. Has base gasket delete, muff mod, and timing advance.

It seems to like it there.

 

[lehman live edge slab]

Yea, tuned my Flying Tiger 660 (w/Cross P&C) at 13,680. Has base gasket delete, muff mod, and timing advance.

It seems to like it there.

A lot of you are above factory spec rpm and I realize that your moded and stuff but wouldn't a person almost always be safe as long as you didn't go above the max rpm no load in stihl's charts that I have? An older 025 is tuned to 13000 and an ms 250 is 14000 in a Stihl manual. Don't think they really changed much on those saws.

 

[MustangMike]

Like anything else, modifications change things. Also, for reasons I don't always understand, one saw will run stronger a little rich, another will prefer being a little lean. They all have their own personalities.

 

[lehman live edge slab]

Like anything else, modifications change things. Also, for reasons I don't always understand, one saw will run stronger a little rich, another will prefer being a little lean. They all have their own personalities.

Yeah I could see that and as far as stock gos you'd think Stihl would build in a certain amount of safety factor since they are telling the techs what to tune them to with a tach. I'm not a certified Stihl tech or anything just assuming.
Just play with chainsaws and woodworking as a hobby. Welder by trade but the older I get the more sick of it I get. Also enjoy all of the comments and advice, I know I've been on here a ton for only being a member a few days but seems to be some good people here.

 

[stihl livin]

@lehman live edge slab I see your a fellow Minnesotan. What part do you currently call home. I'm just south of St. Paul about 1/2 hour

 

[lehman live edge slab]

1 hour north of duluth

 

[hseII]

Yeah I could see that and as far as stock gos you'd think Stihl would build in a certain amount of safety factor since they are telling the techs what to tune them to with a tach. I'm not a certified Stihl tech or anything just assuming.
Just play with chainsaws and woodworking as a hobby. Welder by trade but the older I get the more sick of it I get. Also enjoy all of the comments and advice, I know I've been on here a ton for only being a member a few days but seems to be some good people here.

Those #s are a repeatable standard.

Each saw is similar, but different.

Some saws of the same model sill seem to like to live at a certain place another saw doesn't.

I've had 2-026 that like 14,000-14,500, & another one that likes flipping 15,xxx!

I don't run it there, but it seems to prefer it.


The other Zoo City Saws Test Dummy

 

[Al Smith]

I don't pay much attention to a tach .However I few I have tested 200T 15.6 ,038 Mag 14.6, 6-10 McCulloch 15.2< advance timing 30 degrees .

 

[lehman live edge slab]

Yeah all I used to do is tune by ear then I got a tach.
Had a few friends that wanted everything they could get out of their stock 50cc class. I can hear the difference when adjusting but before I used to richen it up more than I should have. After checking with tach I was 2000 or a little more below stihls spec. Now I'm better because knowing what I was off by i richen it back up less and am a lot closer than I used to be.
And knock on wood haven't blown one yet. All
Firewood saws so refused to push the ragged edge edge.

 

[Willard]

This MS462C sounds pretty snappy
If this saw is factory stock Stihl has a winner here.
72.2cc. 13.261 lbs

 

[FergusonTO35]

Yes.

I don't like letting shops adjust my carb, half the time they hire people who don't know as much as you do.

If the saw has any mods (muff mod, etc) start with the Lo one full turn our, and the Hi 1 + 1/4 turn out. When it warms up a bit, make sure the saw 4 strokes (breaks up) at WOT if it is not in the wood, and cleans up in the cut. Likely you will end up with the Hi about 1 + 1/16 turn out, but this is just an educated guess. (If your carb has limiters, pull them).

The bottom screw is the idle adjustment. Try adjusting that to get the idle where you want it. If that does not work, adjust the Lo a bit, then go back to the idle adjustment screw.

You need to learn to tune your saw anyway, may as well do it now. If conditions change (or saws can adjust on their own), and it does not 4 stroke, turn that Hi screw out (counter clockwise). Running the Hi too lean will burn up your saw.

Saws with nearly identical carbs and displacements can vary widely on how much to turn the screws (as I'm sure you know). My Poulan 2150 won't even start with the low speed less than around 2-1/3 turns out. My Echo CS-400 would chug like a locomotive that rich, if it didn't flood.

 

[FergusonTO35]

As far as I can tell, I have everything I need to make the 024 live again other than the little plastic tube from oil pump to bar mount. You would think this was a common part but none were available on Fleabay in the USA. Called my local dealer and he ordered me one plus a spare. Looks like you have to heat this tube up and mold it to the necessary shape. Is there an easy way to do this?

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

Heat gun. You'll have an easier time of it by fitting the brass insert on the delivery end first and then working the line down to the pump. Should be (may be?) a spring included with the kit to run inside the line so it doesn't kink at the bend to the pump nipple. Use a small drift to push the brass insert end of the line home in the channel opening. Install the pump end of the line with the pump not screwed to the case yet. (Much easier to manage.) Should be just enough length in the line to get the pump over the crank and into position unless you cut it too short or don't have it far enough down into the channel at the bar mount.

 

[MustangMike]

I was just trying to give starting points, and some of my smaller saws vary a lot, but my 044/440/046/460/066/660s are all remarkable close in spite of many different carbs (ZAMA, HD-16, HD-11, and the new 461 carb on a 460 (forgot the darn #).

However, all carbs should be final tuned by ear.