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STIHL The Official Stihl Chainsaws Thread

Majorpayne

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First time poppin' into the Stihl thread over here for an issue I'm having with my flat top 066. Love this saw. Rebuilt it with pieces and parts over the course of three years after rescuing it as a nasty carcass from a flooded basement. It flat out screams and usually runs better than I ever figured it would, except...

Every now and again after I've been cutting for a while and it's nice and warmed up it'll act like the timing has become way advanced after a shutdown when I try to restart..., as in wants to yank my arm off when I try to pull it over if I can even pull it over.
Almost acts like it's bound up or has developed ungodly compression from somewhere but will pull over fine if I just go slowly as opposed to pulling it like I'm starting it.

Coil hasn't moved. Gap is good. Flywheel key is intact. All that stuff seems to be in order. Really has me scratching my head when it happens and usually means the end of cutting with it for the day. Try it the next day and it pulls over and starts normally and may or may not exhibit the problem in essentially the same cutting conditions as the day before.

My theory is that just enough fuel is somehow pooling in the case/cylinder and creating ridiculous compression. but if I pull the plug and pull it over I don't get the usual spew out the plug hole like I should if it was flooded. The plug isn't saturated either.
The one thing I haven't tried yet is to pull the plug wire to see if it still happens with no spark. If it does, I could rule out any timing peculiarities. I've also considered hydro-lock as a possibility but always thought that was more of a tank/carb/fuel delivery issue.

TIA for any input.
I had 044 that would jerk the rope out of my hand sometimes. There was a little slop between the flywheel key and key way. I put the flywheel on and held it to my left and tightened with impact seemed to take care of but I sold it.
 

MustangMike

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Sounds to me like hydro lock. I'll bet the carb is seeping a bit, and after is evaporates, all is OK.

When it happens, move the piston all the way down, roll the saw 180 degrees side ways (with plug out) and see if anything comes out. (This should allow any fluid in the case to come out through the transfers).

I've had it happen on a 660 and 2 460s. Usually it is the float valve in the carb that is leaking and/or may be improperly adjusted.
 

Hoggwood

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Nothing fancy here. Finally wrapped up a project I started a month ago.

3 cheap castaways. 024,026, and a locked up 260. A couple of bags of random parts/fasteners thrown in. Quite a bit of mix and match to try and get a combo that worked. Some swears and a few cycles of heat/soaking to get the rings out of the rusted up 260. Winds up quick.


Pile of Chity Stihl.JPG


Stihl 026 260.JPG
 

ranchdadmike

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What's the difference between these two 028's (if any)?
4ea3f4d1d6450146cb33606c7d54a676.jpg
9ab702ecc34dd26adc761507fe5fb8a5.jpg



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Marshall Rugg

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I just tried to start my 044. It fired one time on the second pull and shut off. I just changed the spark plug and air filter today. It has spark. The fuel lines are in good shape. It sat all summer long. I even put new gas in it. What am I missing?
 

FergusonTO35

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I'll be posting updates here as the 024 comes back together. The crankcase and jug are all back together, just need to attach all the other stuff to it. I've never been a huge Stihl fan but the 024 certainly is a charming little saw, essentially my Echo CS-400 with a side of sauerkraut. I'm surprised at what a pricey saw the 024 was back in the day. According to some old ads I found, it usually went for well over $300.00 retail. The 024 reminds me of my grandfather who was a diehard Stihl fan in spite of catching a bullet in the right arm from a German soldier in 1945. He had a saw of this vintage, don't remember the model number but it was a few sizes larger.
 

Marshall Rugg

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044 - maybe the tank vent. IMO, that was one of the big improvements with the 440 (so even my 044 has a 440 tank).


I believe that's what it was. I pulled carb off to look at the diaphragm and when I pulled the gas line off gas shot out. Where is the vent located?
 

PogoInTheWoods

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I believe that's what it was. I pulled carb off to look at the diaphragm and when I pulled the gas line off gas shot out. Where is the vent located?

There is a certain amount of pressure in the tank. Gas will shoot out of the fuel line if you don't crack the fuel cap to equalize the tank pressure first. That actually indicates that the tank vent is probably working. It should hold pressure from the inside out but allow air in as the fuel level goes down...one way air valve. It's located on the top left of the tank as pictured below. There were several variations as illustrated.

0904171330_resized.jpg

Untitled.jpg

If you haven't tuned a saw before I'd rely on someone who has to dial in the carb for you until you get the hang of it. It's not difficult, but there are very fine lines between a good and bad running saw from just making small adjustments. There's also a fine line between running great and burning up if the carb is set too lean on the "H" side. Small adjustments make big differences and there is a learning curve to understanding 2 cycle tuning IMO. Going by the book or the settings on the air filter cover is a start, but that doesn't always provide the desired results due to any number of factors not being in order..., a bad tank vent or air leak at an oil seal for example...., or a dirty air filter or dirty carb itself.

At least you got it running. Care to share what the problem was?
 

Marshall Rugg

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There is a certain amount of pressure in the tank. Gas will shoot out of the fuel line if you don't crack the fuel cap to equalize the tank pressure first. That actually indicates that the tank vent is probably working. It should hold pressure from the inside out but allow air in as the fuel level goes down...one way air valve. It's located on the top left of the tank as pictured below. There were several variations as illustrated.


If you haven't tuned a saw before I'd rely on someone who has to dial in the carb for you until you get the hang of it. It's not difficult, but there are very fine lines between a good and bad running saw from just making small adjustments. There's also a fine line between running great and burning up if the carb is set too lean on the "H" side. Small adjustments make big differences and there is a learning curve to understanding 2 cycle tuning IMO. Going by the book or the settings on the air filter cover is a start, but that doesn't always provide the desired results due to any number of factors not being in order..., a bad tank vent or air leak at an oil seal for example...., or a dirty air filter or dirty carb itself.

At least you got it running. Care to share what the problem was?

Not sure what was wrong. I took carb line off gas shot out. I put carb back on. Took front muffler cover off and turned the motor over until I could see top of piston then blowed out the cylinder with air compressor. Put everything back together and took spark plug out and blower out the spark plug hole and spark plug with air compressor. The it fired up.
 
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