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STIHL The Official Stihl Chainsaws Thread

mainer_in_ak

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Sounds great, Echo needs to get off their rear and come up with EFI.

So, what's up with the MS-290? Are they a good farm and firewood saw? Seems like you can always get a nice one for well under three bills from Fleabay or FB. If the 290 is just a bigger MS-250 then I would say it's a winner.
Rebuilt an ms 310 with an air leak. Same saw as the 290 but slightly bigger bore. I wasn't impressed. Plastic caged crank bearings, plastic caged clutch drum bearing. That all got upgraded. Spur sprocket upgraded to rim.

1 Bar stud was stripped out, where it screwed into plastic.

Open transfers didn't support the rings very well.

No flywheel key, just a dumb ass cast-in key on the flywheel.

Plastic oiler gear was stripped.

Got an echo cs 6700 for $225 and mildly ported it. Burbling rich at 13,700 rpms and it annihilated that plastic-Stihl . Needed way less parts too.
 
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lehman live edge slab

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Rebuilt an ms 310 with an air leak. Same saw as the 290 but slightly bigger bore. I wasn't impressed. Plastic caged crank bearings, plastic caged clutch drum bearing. That all got upgraded. Spur sprocket upgraded to rim.

1 Bar stud was stripped out, where it screwed into plastic.

Open transfers didn't support the rings very well.

No flywheel key, just a dumb ass cast-in key on the flywheel.

Plastic oiler gear was stripped.

Got an echo cs 6700 for $225 and mildly ported it. Burbling rich at 13,700 rpms and it annihilated that plastic-Stihl . Needed way less parts too.

That series of Stihl clamshell saw is actually very tough and last a long time. You’re going to hate all the new saws if you dislike a key cast into the flywheel and lots of saws use plastic cage bearings to save the cylinder if the saw eats a bearing which eventually it will. Metal bearing cage almost always eats the top end plastic cage hurts nothing so unless a roller comes loose the top is fine. They also support the rings plenty well to run hundreds of hours. I’ll post pictures of the neighbors 290 when I get it he bought it new and has ran on 100:1 amsoil from the first day because his dad was a dealer. We’ll see what shape it’s in, only needs new bar stud runs fine but I told him I’ll the labor for free and put crank seals and else it needs for parts cost to see what it’s like inside.
 

lehman live edge slab

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That series of Stihl clamshell saw is actually very tough and last a long time. You’re going to hate all the new saws if you dislike a key cast into the flywheel and lots of saws use plastic cage bearings to save the cylinder if the saw eats a bearing which eventually it will. Metal bearing cage almost always eats the top end plastic cage hurts nothing so unless a roller comes loose the top is fine. They also support the rings plenty well to run hundreds of hours. I’ll post pictures of the neighbors 290 when I get it he bought it new and has ran on 100:1 amsoil from the first day because his dad was a dealer. We’ll see what shape it’s in, only needs new bar stud runs fine but I told him I’ll the labor for free and put crank seals and else it needs for parts cost to see what it’s like inside.

Saws an early 290 bought right around 2000 and the guy heats with wood and cleared land with it. In fact he still using who knows how old of oil still labeled 100:1 before they even called it saber. He bought several cases through his dad and is still running it.
 

hacskaroly

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Rebuilt an ms 310 with an air leak. Same saw as the 290 but slightly bigger bore. I wasn't impressed. Plastic caged crank bearings, plastic caged clutch drum bearing. That all got upgraded. Spur sprocket upgraded to rim.
I know several people with 310s and they have been great saws for them through out the years. One guy was gifted one from his grandfather, tore it down to clean it up and got it back together and is running it. When I started working at a dealer, I really liked the 311, but found that the 261 did a same/better job at less weight. I also have two 271s (both rebuilt project saws) and they run great too.

I don't doubt the CS 6700 will run circles around these. I agree about the built in flywheel key, I have taken several saws apart and then panic and start looking for the Woodruff key that fell out only to find out its built into the flywheel.
 

lehman live edge slab

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I know several people with 310s and they have been great saws for them through out the years. One guy was gifted one from his grandfather, tore it down to clean it up and got it back together and is running it. When I started working at a dealer, I really liked the 311, but found that the 261 did a same/better job at less weight. I also have two 271s (both rebuilt project saws) and they run great too.

I don't doubt the CS 6700 will run circles around these. I agree about the built in flywheel key, I have taken several saws apart and then panic and start looking for the Woodruff key that fell out only to find out its built into the flywheel.

I don’t see any point in the 311 except it gives them a cc class and price point in homeowner saw the 391 is the same saw minus top end so why carry the weight with less power. Same as the 210-250 same family same weight but 35cc to 45cc almost makes no sense to buy unless that’s all you could scrape together.
 

hacskaroly

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I don’t see any point in the 311 except it gives them a cc class and price point in homeowner saw the 391 is the same saw minus top end so why carry the weight with less power. Same as the 210-250 same family same weight but 35cc to 45cc almost makes no sense to buy unless that’s all you could scrape together.
For those who know and use chainsaws, this is a good point. Many people coming to get saws are clueless about what they really need or have a certain price point they want to keep it at. They want a big saw but don't want to may very much. I have had several people come in (from California and other such locations) and dressed to the 9's in lumberjack gear, ready to go cutting down the forest and are hell bent on doing it with a MS 170. I at least try to talk them into a 171 because of the adjustable carb and the side mount bar adjustment...

Now that I know more about saws and have had more experience using them, I'd only get a 310/311 if it was a project saw at a really good price (or even free).
 

HumBurner

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For those who know and use chainsaws, this is a good point. Many people coming to get saws are clueless about what they really need or have a certain price point they want to keep it at. They want a big saw but don't want to may very much. I have had several people come in (from California and other such locations) and dressed to the 9's in lumberjack gear, ready to go cutting down the forest and are hell bent on doing it with a MS 170. I at least try to talk them into a 171 because of the adjustable carb and the side mount bar adjustment...

Now that I know more about saws and have had more experience using them, I'd only get a 310/311 if it was a project saw at a really good price (or even free).

I was given a 311 in decent shape for free. I haven't had the nerve to spend the bucks on a new fuel- and air-filter for it to give it a try.
 

FergusonTO35

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I was given a 311 in decent shape for free. I haven't had the nerve to spend the bucks on a new fuel- and air-filter for it to give it a try.

If you don't want the 311, put it on Fleabay and spend the money on something you do want. Should be able to get $200 or so if its complete.
 

heimannm

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I have this TS-400 on the bench, found this broken wire. I presume it should have a ring terminal and be attached to ground right in that location??

20241101_171344.jpg

Thanks in advance.

Mark
 

hacskaroly

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I presume it should have a ring terminal and be attached to ground right in that location??
I don't think it has a ring terminal, doubt that screw bottoms out into a ground. I appears that it has a tubular crimp fitting (also found on MS 261s, 034s and the like) that inserts into where the red box is in the below pic so the ground lead hits it when the switch is moved to the off position.

Edit: It appears on further inspection that the other part is still inserted and just snapped off at the end there. You should be able to grab it with needle nose pliers and pull it out.

TS 400.jpg

The two IPLs I could find show this type of fitting on all the options available.

TS 400a.png
TS 400b.png

I hope this helps!
 

hacskaroly

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Here is a pic of what I am talking about, probably easier to see than to try to explain:

1730517988481.png
 

heimannm

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Excellent information, thank you.

I could see with your guidance where it was broken off, easy enough to get the broken bit out.

20241102_073819.jpg

A standard bullet connect is the correct diameter, but the end is closed.

20241102_074026.jpg

2 seconds on the disc sander takes care of that.

20241102_074130.jpg

The insulation was worn off the wire in a few spots...

20241102_074301.jpg

20241102_074634.jpg

Mark
 

FergusonTO35

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Ok, dumb question time. My MS-250 is set up with a .325 .050 18" bar and chain from the factory. If I put a .325 .063 16" bar and chain on it, I don't have to change the sprocket, right? Likewise, if I decided to go with a 3/8" .050 16" bar and chain I only have to change to a 3/8" sprocket? The saw uses a rim sprocket that is not part of the clutch drum.
 

hacskaroly

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Ok, dumb question time. My MS-250 is set up with a .325 .050 18" bar and chain from the factory. If I put a .325 .063 16" bar and chain on it, I don't have to change the sprocket, right? Likewise, if I decided to go with a 3/8" .050 16" bar and chain I only have to change to a 3/8" sprocket? The saw uses a rim sprocket that is not part of the clutch drum.
As far as I know the sprockets will take both, looking at Oregon's catalog and checking out the rim sprockets there, they don't seem to differentiate between if one sprocket will or will not run both .050 and .063, I am not at home and can't check. I did replace my 271 spur sprocket with a 261 rim sprocket and drum with no issues (this was .325 .063 chain), I don't see why .058 or even .050 would not work too. .043 might be a bit loose though.

Here is a link to a kit on ebay if you want to get part numbers:

STIHL OEM SPROCKET 1123 007 1032 .325 7T MS250 025 MS250C 021 MS210 MS210C MS230
 
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