STIHL The Official Stihl Chainsaws Thread

[Mastermind]

I have limbed with both, abd for some reason, i prefer the smaller formfactor of the top handle for that, but looking for a lighter, more powerful saw than my poulan 1800....LOL

Side question, given the ground limbing question, what rear handle would you recommend for the task?

Note that i already have an ms170, ms280, 044, and ms661 in the stihl lineup, as well as a mac 1-10, and a JD cs46, alongside the poulan 1800...

Get an MS261CM.

 

[bogieboy]

Get an MS261CM.

Any reason for that over a muffler modded 280c? Similar displacement and power output, with a slight edge in weight for the 261... other than that i dont see a real big reason to go to a 261?

 

[Mastermind]

Any reason for that over a muffler modded 280c? Similar displacement and power output, with a slight edge in weight for the 261... other than that i dont see a real big reason to go to a 261?

I've never seem a 280.....so I have no idea. Carry on.

 

[bogieboy]

I've never seem a 280.....so I have no idea. Carry on.

Now you have...LOL first generation M-tronics testbed (stihl called it intellicarb) half mag half plastic cases, kind of an unloved mongrel in the saw community, as it was a short run proprietary parts build.... hence why no one liked it... also, was a dog unless you muffler modded them... then they really wake up.... like stock saw/ported saw wake up with a muff mod alone...

 

[hacskaroly]

first generation M-tronics testbed

From what I have hear from customers that used the first generation M-Tronics, there were some growing pains with it. The MS-261CM is a really good saw, it is my favorite saw of this size, 4 hp, 11 lbs, 18-20" bar, .325 or 3/8 chain...lots of options and very reliable.

Edit: Quick look at the MS 280, it shows being only 3.6 hp, so it is more in line with a current MS 271, the MS 261 still has almost a 1/2 hp advantage over the MS 280. Also the MS 261 has parts galore available for rebuilding if needed.

 

[Mastermind]

From what I have hear from customers that used the first generation M-Tronics, there were some growing pains with it. The MS-261CM is a really good saw, it is my favorite saw of this size, 4 hp, 11 lbs, 18-20" bar, .325 or 3/8 chain...lots of options and very reliable.

Edit: Quick look at the MS 280, it shows being only 3.6 hp, so it is more in line with a current MS 271, the MS 261 still has almost a 1/2 hp advantage over the MS 280. Also the MS 261 has parts galore available for rebuilding if needed.

And....its a true pro saw.

 

[bogieboy]

From what I have hear from customers that used the first generation M-Tronics, there were some growing pains with it. The MS-261CM is a really good saw, it is my favorite saw of this size, 4 hp, 11 lbs, 18-20" bar, .325 or 3/8 chain...lots of options and very reliable.

Edit: Quick look at the MS 280, it shows being only 3.6 hp, so it is more in line with a current MS 271, the MS 261 still has almost a 1/2 hp advantage over the MS 280. Also the MS 261 has parts galore available for rebuilding if needed.

The muff mod really opens these up though, i would like to put it on a dyno and see what it makes now, as it is noticably quicker in the cut over my coworkers stock carbed 280, which would be equally as restrictive as the electronic carb version. I wouldnt doudt that it is pushing every bit of 4hp, if not closer to 4.5, it pulls a 20" full chisel 3/8 bar no problem....

And....its a true pro saw.

Majority of that is marketing in my eye, coming from 2 different stihl dealers, the saws either run or they dont.... i have a 15 yr old ms170 that spent 10 years as an orchard saw, and it still runs fine... i have put a new fuel line in it, have not touched the carb, and it fires every time, within 4 pulls.... most certainly not a pro saw, but has probably 500 hrs on it.... i have put a good 50-100 hrs on it myself....

Bottom line if you dont beat the tar outta a saw, and keep good fuel and oil in it, it will last a good long time....least in my experience

 

[hacskaroly]

Majority of that is marketing in my eye, coming from 2 different stihl dealers, the saws either run or they dont

Marketing does play into selling saws and true, they either run or they don't (some do fit into the middle as to not run very well - but still running). Stihl does have to market to two different types of people, those who sometimes use saws and others who use them all the time. While the homeowner saws work great and when taken care of can last a long time, the professional series have options that can make them more appealing. One feature with professional saws, you get the option of a carb or M-Tronics. Another is weight vs homeowner saw. The MS-311 is a 4.1 hp saw and weights 13 lbs, the MS 261 is 4.0 hp and weighs 11 lbs. If you don't mind the weight, the MS 311 is perfectly fine. The professional series saws tend to have more aftermarket parts available than the homeowner series. I spent 6 months looking for a MS 271/291 cylinder and could not find one beyond Stihl's $300 setup. I paid $50 for a MS 261 chi-com piston and cylinder and had my saw up and running with no issues.

A lot of time it comes down to personal preference, for me, I would not take a MS 170 if it was given to me, but I would buy a MS 171 - I like the features on it better. If the exhaust modded 280 is working for you then you probably don't need a 261. If you end up looking for something in between a 170 and 261, then your options might be a MS 211 (running 3/8p chain) or a MS 250/251 (running .325 chain).

 

[bogieboy]

@Mastermind on the 170, it was given to me, and aside fromwearing out and replacing the bar, i am only into it for an oem fuel line... it also has been upgraded to the ms180c bar tensioninside cover, so its tool-less bar adjustment as well, its tired enough to not need a sprung recoil (ala ez-start)

I think at the end of the day, the question of top handles is to potentially replace the 170 in the rotation, as i am trying to whittle down the saws i have to one good saw in each "displacement category"... i like my 280, the 044 needs some more work on the porting yet, bit its getting there, and theres the 661/cross/mmws jug... thats speaks for it self (least i hope, still waiting on the intake boot to arrive LOL) but the small limbing saw category is lacking in my lineup... i find myself grabbing the poulan 1800 over the 170, and like the top handle for that one handed limbing, but the lack of AV gets your hands buzzing in short order, hence the original question...LOL

 

[Mastermind]

@Mastermind on the 170, it was given to me, and aside fromwearing out and replacing the bar, i am only into it for an oem fuel line... it also has been upgraded to the ms180c bar tensioninside cover, so its tool-less bar adjustment as well, its tired enough to not need a sprung recoil (ala ez-start)

I think at the end of the day, the question of top handles is to potentially replace the 170 in the rotation, as i am trying to whittle down the saws i have to one good saw in each "displacement category"... i like my 280, the 044 needs some more work on the porting yet, bit its getting there, and theres the 661/cross/mmws jug... thats speaks for it self (least i hope, still waiting on the intake boot to arrive LOL) but the small limbing saw category is lacking in my lineup... i find myself grabbing the poulan 1800 over the 170, and like the top handle for that one handed limbing, but the lack of AV gets your hands buzzing in short order, hence the original question...LOL

Since the homeowner type saws are ok with you, get an MS192.

 

[Loony661]

I have limbed with both, abd for some reason, i prefer the smaller formfactor of the top handle for that, but looking for a lighter, more powerful saw than my poulan 1800....LOL

Side question, given the ground limbing question, what rear handle would you recommend for the task?

Note that i already have an ms170, ms280, 044, and ms661 in the stihl lineup, as well as a mac 1-10, and a JD cs46, alongside the poulan 1800...

Stihl makes all of their top handle saws in rear handle versions, for light weight and the safest operation. Top handles are for arborists aloft, where space and maneuverability are a premium. Rear handles offer better control against kickback, have more reach if you do decide to one-hand (but you probably shouldn’t) and can be just as lightweight.

 

[maulhead]

Stihl makes all of their top handle saws in rear handle versions, for light weight and the safest operation. Top handles are for arborists aloft, where space and maneuverability are a premium. Rear handles offer better control against kickback, have more reach if you do decide to one-hand (but you probably shouldn’t) and can be just as lightweight.

Agreed, I had a 200T for a while, I figured it would be nice for small stuff as a ground saw. It was uncomfortable, awkward, and some times freaky (strange & somewhat frightening) using it two handed as a ground trim saw to me. I preferred to use a 241 or 261 for small stuff, they just felt a lot safer. So I sold the 200T to climber guy, who used it where it belongs, up in a tree. JMHO I would not use top handle saw for ground work.

 

[bogieboy]

Got the intake boot in the 661 today, and it lives! Nice and snappy revs, even with a full chisel 20" bar on it... now i just gotta find some wood to sink it into and really seat the rings good...

 

[bogieboy]

Decided to do a little digging on why my 10mm 044 seemed like it was a bit of a dog yesterday, popped the spark plug out and found that i didnt have thick enough solder to measure the squish as it sat... so, tore it down, pulled the base gasket, cleaned up the transfers a bit better (didnt have good carbides when i rebuilt it last year, so there was minimal done to it) and widened out the intake and exhaust a hair, and put it back together (for now at least) and rechecked squish and it fell down to .031" with no base gasket...

Anyone have tips for lowering the cylinder more without a lathe or belt sander? It certainly woke the saw up a bit, but i feel like i am leaving a fair bit on the table with that large of a squish...i think it would pep up a fair bit with another .010 off the base... i suppose i could go the tape sandpaper to a flat bench route...LOL

 

[Powerstroke Cowboy]

Decided to do a little digging on why my 10mm 044 seemed like it was a bit of a dog yesterday, popped the spark plug out and found that i didnt have thick enough solder to measure the squish as it sat... so, tore it down, pulled the base gasket, cleaned up the transfers a bit better (didnt have good carbides when i rebuilt it last year, so there was minimal done to it) and widened out the intake and exhaust a hair, and put it back together (for now at least) and rechecked squish and it fell down to .031" with no base gasket...

Anyone have tips for lowering the cylinder more without a lathe or belt sander? It certainly woke the saw up a bit, but i feel like i am leaving a fair bit on the table with that large of a squish...i think it would pep up a fair bit with another .010 off the base... i suppose i could go the tape sandpaper to a flat bench route...LOL

220 grit sheet sandpaper on a flat surface and elbow grease. Take measurements on all for corners of the base, write them down so you can keep checking to make sure your taking material off evenly Also, rotate the cylinder as your sanding. This helps keep it even. You can go up in grit after your close if you want.

If you tape the paper down, make sure it on a movable object so you can dump or nock the shavings off, they build up quick and plug the sandpaper.

 

[bogieboy]

I am calling the scrap heap ms661 a success... stock bottom end, Cross/MMWS jug and piston, muffler mod (pulled the baffle and opened up the exhaust port to almost the full size of the guard) and a modded mccullogh 32" hardnose, because it was free... LOL

Total investment: $25....cost of enjoyment: Priceless...

Also fun side note, cut wood at a friends place, whos a tree guy, had 2 of his guys (both very familiar with a 661) start it and play with it... niether went for the compression release, both about kissed the saw on the first start attempt (remember that 210psi compression? LOL ) even after being warned it was worked over and a bit hard to pull.... LOL

Ended up putting almost a half gallon thru it today...ran flawless and very strong... i bet it would pull a roller nose way quicker theu the wood....

Side note, are there any high output oilers for a 661? Even after knocking the pin in and cranking the oiler all the way up, i dont like how dry the chain is, especially for a hard nose bar (for the time being)

 

[bogieboy]

I can also say i am very happy with the widening of the intake and exhaust on the 044, along with opening up the lower half of the transfers.... i dont think i am gonna be concerened about that .031 squish any more...LOL this is a 20" bar in the same log as the 661, i may have cut the rakers on this chain specifically with cookie cutting with the 661 in mind...LOL but it ended up on the 044.... i am impressed none the less....

 

[lehman live edge slab]

Now you have...LOL first generation M-tronics testbed (stihl called it intellicarb) half mag half plastic cases, kind of an unloved mongrel in the saw community, as it was a short run proprietary parts build.... hence why no one liked it... also, was a dog unless you muffler modded them... then they really wake up.... like stock saw/ported saw wake up with a muff mod alone...

View attachment 403703View attachment 403704

The bastard child of the Stihl line up 270/280, always felt weird to me the way they were built. Kinda long and skinny shaped.

 

[lehman live edge slab]

The muff mod really opens these up though, i would like to put it on a dyno and see what it makes now, as it is noticably quicker in the cut over my coworkers stock carbed 280, which would be equally as restrictive as the electronic carb version. I wouldnt doudt that it is pushing every bit of 4hp, if not closer to 4.5, it pulls a 20" full chisel 3/8 bar no problem....

Majority of that is marketing in my eye, coming from 2 different stihl dealers, the saws either run or they dont.... i have a 15 yr old ms170 that spent 10 years as an orchard saw, and it still runs fine... i have put a new fuel line in it, have not touched the carb, and it fires every time, within 4 pulls.... most certainly not a pro saw, but has probably 500 hrs on it.... i have put a good 50-100 hrs on it myself....

Bottom line if you dont beat the tar outta a saw, and keep good fuel and oil in it, it will last a good long time....least in my experience

Still a large difference on longevity between the pro and ranch saws seems like.

 

[lehman live edge slab]

Got my 400 back from Steve today and he did a fine job on it especially for a first attempt