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STIHL The Official Stihl Chainsaws Thread

dougie

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Its ultimately down to the owners decision, but it will be hoping for just buy a new one....doesnt make sense to put $1400 into a $1600 saw... i usually reccommend once youre at 2/3 the cost just get a new one with a warranty...
I think if i was the dealer I'd give the owner a portion of the cost of labor as trade in value. Not knowing those numbers I could guess at labor cost on this, but would help push them to new, save the labor time, and potentially get some salvageable used parts for helping those in a tight spot.

:D

dw
 

bogieboy

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I think if i was the dealer I'd give the owner a portion of the cost of labor as trade in value. Not knowing those numbers I could guess at labor cost on this, but would help push them to new, save the labor time, and potentially get some salvageable used parts for helping those in a tight spot.

:D

dw
Honestly, if we did that, we would be loosing money... the profit margins are very narrow on new equipment, and pretty well set by the manufacturers on most stuff.... the labor to rebuild that saw would be about $250....
 

bogieboy

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So, got my cross/mmws cyl in this afternoon, threw the slug on and checked squish, comes in at about .023", with no base gasket same for both intake and exhaust, so, to those who have gone before me, would this be a good spot to be for a bead of Dirko HT and call it good, or should i put a stock MLS gasket in it, forgot to measure the thickness before i left work, but i would guess it to be right about 8-10 thou?

Also, have not had a chance to pick up a degree wheel, so have not checked port timing, but the transfers visually are a LOT bigger than stock, so this should be a rowdy saw... intake and exhaust are visibly wider as well, will try and grab some pics tomorrow...


One other question for the collective, are any of the aftermarket intake boots worth a hoot? I can get stihl parts at cost, so it really narrows the price margin there....the intake is torn from when the saw was originally torn down, i plan on doing a kit in the carb, intake, fuel filter, and pulse line at the very least, plugged it into the MDG1 this morning, 104hrs, 1274 starts... pretty impressive i think...

Maybe @Mastermind can shed some light here?
 

Mastermind

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So, got my cross/mmws cyl in this afternoon, threw the slug on and checked squish, comes in at about .023", with no base gasket same for both intake and exhaust, so, to those who have gone before me, would this be a good spot to be for a bead of Dirko HT and call it good, or should i put a stock MLS gasket in it, forgot to measure the thickness before i left work, but i would guess it to be right about 8-10 thou?

Also, have not had a chance to pick up a degree wheel, so have not checked port timing, but the transfers visually are a LOT bigger than stock, so this should be a rowdy saw... intake and exhaust are visibly wider as well, will try and grab some pics tomorrow...


One other question for the collective, are any of the aftermarket intake boots worth a hoot? I can get stihl parts at cost, so it really narrows the price margin there....the intake is torn from when the saw was originally torn down, i plan on doing a kit in the carb, intake, fuel filter, and pulse line at the very least, plugged it into the MDG1 this morning, 104hrs, 1274 starts... pretty impressive i think...

Maybe @Mastermind can shed some light here?
Light on what exactly? I'm missing the question evidently.
 

bogieboy

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Light on what exactly? I'm missing the question evidently.
Wether the .023 squish would be ok for a work saw, or should i throw a base gasket in there... i have been a stihl tech for 8 yrs, but never strayed into the performance side of things til recently, i would like for this saw to last, as i certainly cant afford a new 661...
 

Mastermind

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Wether the .023 squish would be ok for a work saw, or should i throw a base gasket in there... i have been a stihl tech for 8 yrs, but never strayed into the performance side of things til recently, i would like for this saw to last, as i certainly cant afford a new 661...
.023 is fine. But seems wrong. It should be about that with a gasket.
 

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.023 is fine. But seems wrong. It should be about that with a gasket.
Interesting.... the kit i have is one of the clearance kits from HL, which has some casting....deficiencies....LOL intake was a bit off center on the boot side, bit of flashing on the port entry, and looked like a hair of oxidation from potential moisture on the piston, a couple of chalky white spots on the crown...

I will double check the squish tomorrow, i didnt tighten the jug, just snugged two bolts on opposing corners and checked front and rear of the cyl for squish... also, i didnt have the finest of solders to check with, LOL it turned over kinda hard at that reading....
 

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@bogieboy

Check the squish side to side right above the wrist pin. Personally I like to check all four "corners" at the same time.

If it turned over hard you will want thinner soldering wire. When you check the squish run the cylinder up and over TDC till it passes by easy. The reading will be a lot more accurate.
 

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@bogieboy

Check the squish side to side right above the wrist pin. Personally I like to check all four "corners" at the same time.

If it turned over hard you will want thinner soldering wire. When you check the squish run the cylinder up and over TDC till it passes by easy. The reading will be a lot more accurate.
Thanks for the tips, i will see if i have finer solder, i think i do... i did turn it over til it went easy, didnt even think to do side to side though... the few porting vids i watched on the tube they checked front and back...
 

Maintenance Chief

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Thanks for the tips, i will see if i have finer solder, i think i do... i did turn it over til it went easy, didnt even think to do side to side though... the few porting vids i watched on the tube they checked front and back...
I check the 4 spots for anything under .025, anytime I get a first measurement over that I really don't worry.
Using thin solder is important though.
 

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I check the 4 spots for anything under .025, anytime I get a first measurement over that I really don't worry.
Using thin solder is important though.
Just did left and right over the pin, both sides came out .021 with no gasket, and thinner solder, so i think i will run a gasket on this one just to be safe, unless you guys think that will be an ok squish?
 

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Has Stihl stopped making square ground? And skip tooth?

Specifically 33RSF and 33RSLF?
They are still making them, at the store I use to work at a few months ago had both 33 RSF and 33 RSLF on spool and in boxes and were getting more every couple of weeks. We were typically staying a head with one spool of 33 RSF on the floor and three in the back because we were going through it so fast.
 

hacskaroly

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stihl people here keep wanting me to fix 271 291 391s they are getting quotes of near 500.00 at the dealerships to fix them
What's going on with that series?

We would see the same thing (and I would through in the 261 too), mostly it was first time saw owners that were running bad gas, no oil, WOT with chain brake on, leaving the saw rolling around in the back of the truck all year long...etc. They would come in asking for a tune-up when there was a whole lot more going on. Without aftermarket cylinders for the 271/291 anything beyond a tune-up and basic parts starts getting expensive. I had a buddy of mine that bought a 291 as a project saw that had some serious scoring on the cylinder. We tried for 6 months to find a 271/291 cylinder that was affordable and in good shape...nothing. I finally honed out the cylinder the best I could, used some JB weld to fill some deep stuff and put a new piston and cylinder on it and its been running good for him for about 6 months so far.

Funny thing is that some people will pay the $500 to get one of those saws fixed instead of just spending the money on a new saw or buying a cheaper saw they can run into the ground, throw away and get a new one. I had one customer tell me he bought a used saw and wanted to change the oil in it and wanted to know which weight motor oil to use...I was tempted to just tell him to set it down and just walk away...lol
 

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Just did left and right over the pin, both sides came out .021 with no gasket, and thinner solder, so i think i will run a gasket on this one just to be safe, unless you guys think that will be an ok squish?
That is safe. With a gasket you would have a large squish. Do you have the ability to take some material off the base of the cylinder?
 

dougie

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I had one customer tell me he bought a used saw and wanted to change the oil in it and wanted to know which weight motor oil to use...I was tempted to just tell him to set it down and just walk away...lol
10w30 goes in the front hole - just dump out what is in there and pour in 10w30 :cool:

dw
 

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That is safe. With a gasket you would have a large squish. Do you have the ability to take some material off the base of the cylinder?
Yes and no.....LOL our shop has an oooolllld lathe, but it currently has a broken leather belt, and our belt sander shredded its last sanding belt, and we havent reordered one, as we havent had to deck any techumseh heads in a long time... so, either way i would need to order parts to get one or the other up and running, which, we bever use either one for anything that makes money, so.... not a worthwile investment on that front...
 

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.

Funny thing is that some people will pay the $500 to get one of those saws fixed instead of just spending the money on a new saw or buying a cheaper saw they can run into the ground, throw away and get a new one. I had one customer tell me he bought a used saw and wanted to change the oil in it and wanted to know which weight motor oil to use...I was tempted to just tell him to set it down and just walk away...lol
See this all the time too, more with the municipalities, they have $XX budget for equipment, and $XX budget for repairs.... have had one or two that threw more than the cost of new at a used damaged piece simply because they ran out of equipment budget, but still had plenty of repair budget.... gotta love the gubment...
 

dougie

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See this all the time too, more with the municipalities, they have $XX budget for equipment, and $XX budget for repairs.... have had one or two that threw more than the cost of new at a used damaged piece simply because they ran out of equipment budget, but still had plenty of repair budget.... gotta love the gubment...
This is why we can't have nice things and half our pay goes to wasteful spending... though I see the same in the private sector I am in, managers trying to use up money for X category at the end of the year, but can't do something we need because that is a Y category spend.

All part of the if you don't use your budget you lose your budget and parsing up the money and ear marking for 1 thing only... on a repair side as long as the keep the right side crank case w/ SN they rest could all be replaced it would be a "repair" and yeah I'm sure you cane change the right side SN case, just making a point.

dw
 

Mastermind

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Just did left and right over the pin, both sides came out .021 with no gasket, and thinner solder, so i think i will run a gasket on this one just to be safe, unless you guys think that will be an ok squish?
That will be fine. Run it !!!
 

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That will be fine. Run it !!!
Awesome, thanks! Tried to clean up the casting imperfections on the transfers, were some odd spots that i didnt like, same with the intake...still need to polish the exhaust as well, its a pretty rough cast port...LOL anything glaring i need to touch up? I have plenty of time as i am waiting on a new intake boot....

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