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STIHL The Official Stihl Chainsaws Thread

Mastermind

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Awesome, thanks! Tried to clean up the casting imperfections on the transfers, were some odd spots that i didnt like, same with the intake...still need to polish the exhaust as well, its a pretty rough cast port...LOL anything glaring i need to touch up? I have plenty of time as i am waiting on a new intake boot....

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Looks great.
 

bogieboy

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@Mastermind this look about right for a cross/MMSW 661 with that 21 thou squish? Is about 180 with the compression release pushed... also, no intake boot yet, just open port
 

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bogieboy

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I didn't expect it to be that high......but it will be good there.
I didnt either!!! I read thru the thread where you developed these, and if i recall it came out about 180...

I just checked my comp gauge with the shop air that is set to 90psig, and it read 100 psi, so i guess my measurements are about 10psi off comparing to a second gauge, still... thats 200 psi...LOL
 

Mastermind

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I didnt either!!! I read thru the thread where you developed these, and if i recall it came out about 180...

I just checked my comp gauge with the shop air that is set to 90psig, and it read 100 psi, so i guess my measurements are about 10psi off comparing to a second gauge, still... thats 200 psi...LOL
To be fair.....the Chinese don't seem to be capable of getting anything right.
 

Maintenance Chief

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Started out as a scrapyard find, but thanks to @Woodslasher for one of the felling spikes and @Duke Thieroff for a pop up piston, air filter cover, and full wrap handle , it will murder trees once again!
I used the OEM cylinder and case/crank, and a Bing 49 carburetor, unfortunately the tank couldn't be saved.
Ended up with .023 squish with a metal base gasket and the Dukes piston.
I have to put a new air filter and clutch drum on it before it cuts.
I did fire it up, it definitely sounds strong.
 

mirage

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Can anyone tell me the model number of this saw? I need to replace the seals in it and need to order the right ones.
 

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LandFakers

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View attachment 403220View attachment 403221View attachment 403222View attachment 403223
Started out as a scrapyard find, but thanks to @Woodslasher for one of the felling spikes and @Duke Thieroff for a pop up piston, air filter cover, and full wrap handle , it will murder trees once again!
I used the OEM cylinder and case/crank, and a Bing 49 carburetor, unfortunately the tank couldn't be saved.
Ended up with .023 squish with a metal base gasket and the Dukes piston.
I have to put a new air filter and clutch drum on it before it cuts.
I did fire it up, it definitely sounds strong.
Nice rebuild, looks great!
 

bogieboy

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Nice! That 660 is cleaner than the 661 i am building...LOL somehow mine has paint spatter all over it from the previous owner...20240106_210407.jpg
View attachment 403220View attachment 403221View attachment 403222View attachment 403223
Started out as a scrapyard find, but thanks to @Woodslasher for one of the felling spikes and @Duke Thieroff for a pop up piston, air filter cover, and full wrap handle , it will murder trees once again!
I used the OEM cylinder and case/crank, and a Bing 49 carburetor, unfortunately the tank couldn't be saved.
Ended up with .023 squish with a metal base gasket and the Dukes piston.
I have to put a new air filter and clutch drum on it before it cuts.
I did fire it up, it definitely sounds strong.
 

bogieboy

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Pretty sure i know the answer to this, but i will ask anyways....

This cylinder is toast right? The skirt damage you cant grab with a fingernail or pick, but the wrist pin scrapes are fairly deep....

20240108_153321.jpg
 

Mastermind

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Pretty sure i know the answer to this, but i will ask anyways....

This cylinder is toast right? The skirt damage you cant grab with a fingernail or pick, but the wrist pin scrapes are fairly deep....

View attachment 403389
It will run. The important part is the area above the ports. Clean up the bevels with some 220 grit.....and try it.
 

bogieboy

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It will run. The important part is the area above the ports. Clean up the bevels with some 220 grit.....and try it.
I have no need to, was just curious, this is the cyl out of the ms661 that i put the Cross/MMWS cyl and piston on... there is a pretty good ding above the transfers as well from the wrist pin, that pic was also after a quick hone with a brake cyl hone...
 

Mastermind

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I have no need to, was just curious, this is the cyl out of the ms661 that i put the Cross/MMWS cyl and piston on... there is a pretty good ding above the transfers as well from the wrist pin, that pic was also after a quick hone with a brake cyl hone...
I've used worse to get a saw back in service. Sorta figure it would be a short term fix.....but in most cases they keep on keepin on.
 

bogieboy

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Question for the collective, if given the option, would you rather have an early (1114 series) 020t, or an ms201tc-m, and why you would prefer said saw? If it matters i am too old and fat to climb, so usage would be a limbing saw...
 

Loony661

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Question for the collective, if given the option, would you rather have an early (1114 series) 020t, or an ms201tc-m, and why you would prefer said saw? If it matters i am too old and fat to climb, so usage would be a limbing saw...
My honest opinion is that if you’re not aloft with it, get a rear handle saw.
 

bogieboy

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My honest opinion is that if you’re not aloft with it, get a rear handle saw.
I have limbed with both, abd for some reason, i prefer the smaller formfactor of the top handle for that, but looking for a lighter, more powerful saw than my poulan 1800....LOL

Side question, given the ground limbing question, what rear handle would you recommend for the task?

Note that i already have an ms170, ms280, 044, and ms661 in the stihl lineup, as well as a mac 1-10, and a JD cs46, alongside the poulan 1800...
 
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