STIHL The Official Stihl Chainsaws Thread

[Nutball]

Thanks, I tried a 6mm, but thought it was too small.

The throttle rod on 291's likes to come out of the guide which is 2 vertucal plastic pins. If the top gap was blocked, the rod shouldn't come out any more. Maybe heat shrink tubing would be best. Anyway I worked with a 291 that had the rod come loose several times in a day. It has now happened once to 2 others.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

Gotcha.

The throttle rod should snap into that guide on the carb carrier and be captive as a result. If not the case, the correct remedy is to replace the carb carrier and/or determine why the rod wants to ride out of the guide in the first place. The rotation of the rod against the throttle shaft on the carb should actually be pushing it downward into the slot, not upward.

 

[RI Chevy]

I had to take a Snapon 8mm deep socket, put it on my drill and sand down the outside nose of the socket in order to take my 261cm carb nuts off.

 

[Nutball]

I assume vibration eventually wears out the guide such that the throttle rod doesn't snap in any more and can just fall out, or the snap is a bad design like the 372 choke. When the 291 has full choke set, the throttle rod is free to rattle out of the guide, otherwise it is well designed to not let it out or even back in without full choke.

 

[RockiesRider]

Anyone have a line on v stacks for an 046 or 044?

 

[Nutball]

How do you remove the spark plug on a 193t?

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

Need to use a suitable means to pry the boot off by its tab and unscrew the plug like any other spark plug..., just with very limited space to maneuver. I think they changed to the smaller plug requiring a smaller socket in those, also.

 

[Nutball]

But, should I have to ask? Should I have to spend 10min attacking it with a screwdriver when it should be a simple pop off? Somebody was drinking motomix when they designed this. The worst part may be the cover on the boot which just serves to get in the way.

Pry the boot cover up,
pry the boot off the plug,
pry the spring off the plug,
remove ignition and pull wire out of boot

The hard part will be getting the spring back on the wire in the boot with no room to work. They have enough empty space in there to stuff 2ft of spark wire.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

Not exactly how I'd do it.

And you did ask.

You're welcome.

 

[Nutball]

Yes I did. I figured I'm doing it wrong, but they did seem to over complicate it. Ideally there should be room to turn it slightly so the spring lets go of the plug, and enough wire to pull the boot away so a wrench can get in there.

What suitable too do you use?

 

[Nutball]

I think the ignition coil died. The muffler looked slobbery and I know its good to occasionally get these top handles hot since they often idle and make quick little cuts. Half way through the first or second cookie it died like the off switch was hit. Very new saw still, hardly used. I get weak spark by touching the wire to the cylinder, but nothing on the spark plug. I wonder what would have failed inside the coil.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

Any spark at all out of the coil is a good sign. I'd say there is a higher probability that your problem is in the plug lead given the difficulty you've already had with it -- either before or after your testing. Ensure the spring is intact under the boot. Best way to do those is just pull the coil to make everything easier. If you haven't done many, slide the boot over the plug lead first. Then install the spring and pull the boot over it using a little oil to lube the boot. That method generally holds the pierced end together until the spring is inside the boot. Put the cover piece on after the ignition is back in place to make it easier to get the plug wire routed. Using a meter to check the lead from the coil is always a good idea both before and after re-doing a boot. If the coil is bad, why bother with the boot, right?

I'll try to pop the boot off just using a scrench or screwdriver to see if it will cooperate. If it doesn't, I'll pull the boot cover back out of the way and use medium sized needle nose pliers to grab the boot and the spring at the same time to avoid everything coming apart like evidently happened in your case.

Slobbery muffler usually indicates running way too rich -- for whatever reason.

Good luck with it.

 

[Nutball]

Yes, I think I tuned it some too because it was rich. I have another 193t from the same place, loose bar stud. I'll test the strength of it's spark, maybe swap the coil too to make sure the flywheel magnet didn't do something weird.

 

[Nutball]

What causes the brake band on Stihl top handle saws to get so far out of place it gets in the way of the chain? How does one prevent it from happening in the future?

 

[Lone Wolf]

What causes the brake band on Stihl top handle saws to get so far out of place it gets in the way of the chain? How does one prevent it from happening in the future?

Take the cover off and take a pic and post it.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

What causes the brake band on Stihl top handle saws to get so far out of place it gets in the way of the chain? How does one prevent it from happening in the future?

It could be broken. It's a pretty wimpy band. Just cleaning the funk out of the cover can dislodge it. They do wear out over time if the chain brake is used often (as it should be as a safety feature) or gets triggered a lot. It can also obviously become dislodged from the normal position if pulling the cover with it engaged.

There's also a retaining ridge at the top of the cover to help hold the band in position. It could be completely ground away if you've thrown enough chains or run enough loose ones.

 

[Frank bierce]

I think it may be time to let some saws go. Got a few together

 

[lehman live edge slab]

I think it may be time to let some saws go. Got a few together


View attachment 310865

Never time to let them go, well not to many at least look at my shelf of runners and lots are old ones that work but only fun to run for short times. Down to my 066 round top and a couple small ones like a 171 for now to run for cutting until my 500i finally shows up. Been on order for over a month

 

[jacob j.]

I think it may be time to let some saws go. Got a few together


View attachment 310865

I don't think you'll have any problem getting rid of that pile...

 

[Al Smith]

What causes the brake band on Stihl top handle saws to get so far out of place it gets in the way of the chain? How does one prevent it from happening in the future?

Since you mentioned it I have a 200T I picked up from dealers dead pile they thought had thrown a rod .Turns out the clutch brake band anchor pin came loose rattled around and some how got lodged in the hole next to one of the magnets in the flywheel and hung it .20 whole dollars and I had it running 20 minutes after I got it home .The Saturday money saver or just plain good luck .