STIHL The Official Stihl Chainsaws Thread

[67L36Driver]

Dealing with a MS191t that sheared the flywheel ‘key’.

I’ve tried to get it (the flywheel) registered and torqued down only to end up too far advanced. It rips the pull rope handle out of my hand. Not good for 76 yo fingers. [emoji90]

Is there an alternate to the original 1132 400 1200A that would work?

Not finding the OE flywheel for reasonable.[emoji2959]

Please tell me an 017 (ish) 1130 400 1201 flywheel will work.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

That flywheel and ignition module are exclusive to the 191T according to everything I just researched. The crank is the same as the 017/018/MS170/MS180, so their flywheels would certainly fit the crank. Dimensional fit and timing would be the issues there for the flywheel which would probably require the associated ignition module.

Easiest approach is to keep retarding the timing until it runs right. Having a clean crank and flywheel is key to getting it right and having it stay that way. Brake cleaner or alcohol is your friend there.

 

[67L36Driver]

Yup, used the brake clean.

I may use the swarf (dust) from my chain grinder to add grip to the mating surface on the next try.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

Stihl would tell you it'll have the opposite effect. There's even a tech note about it.

 

[MustangMike]

Yea, I always go "clean" with brake cleaner.

 

[huskyboy]

Damn stihls. Lol

 

[Al Smith]

With no malice of fore thought some times the so called experts don't know the entire story .

 

[M2theB]

Posted this on the bench thread and thought might post here too

041 FB. Found the seal like this. Looks backwards to me but I don’t know what’s normal for this saw.
Is it in backwards?

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

Is it in backwards?

Yup.

 

[M2theB]

Yup.

just pulled the new ones out of the mail box and lined them up and came to the same conclusion

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

Where did you get the new ones?

 

[M2theB]

Little Red Barn

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

Don't be surprised if you can just press em in with a thumb and finger.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

Is the flywheel side seal a metal housing seal?

 

[Maintenance Chief]

Hell the backwards seal looks decent!

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

It actually does. LOL

The replacement seals for the 029's/ms290's when the shortblock is still assembled are different from the ones that are used if it has been separated. They're odd and actually do go in backward.

 

[M2theB]

Is the flywheel side seal a metal housing seal?

Yes

 

[M2theB]

Hell the backwards seal looks decent!

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

Out of curiosity I did some digging this morning and couldn't find anyone anywhere offering a metal housing version of a 25x37x7 seal in double lip. All were the rubber coated housing.

I've used those type of seals twice in the same application on the same saw and they both failed. One right out of the gate and the second after several starts with minimal run time. The original was included in a set from Sawzilla under their Proline label that had a metal flywheel side seal (that installed as it should have). The second was supposed to be a metal housing version from Motion Industries which ended up being identical to the one from Sawzilla. My guess is the only reason it lasted a little longer was some extra Dirko. Both leaked around the outside diameter. This was on an old 045 that I eventually found a metal NOS OEM seal which fit correctly and cured the problem. I was able to install both rubberized seals by simply pressing them into place by hand. Not a very convincing fit to me if they don't need to be driven home with a hammer and a socket. Hopefully the ones in question are a tighter fit than what I experienced. On the other hand, the rubberized style were just starting to appear right about the time of the 041 and may indeed have actually been used in production. I'm certainly curious to hear how the LRB seals work out. I'm sure they're the same as the Proline and everyone else who is offering them and seem to be the only game in town for the PTO seal.

The above said, I don't hesitate to use the rubberized aftermarket seals on the Stihl clamshells since that's basically what they come with and are also a compressed fit vs. interference. (Big difference in how the outside diameter can be sealed.) There's also an exception for their "soft" seal if the engine is still assembled as I mentioned. Weird seal that basically goes in back-assward. And at $18.99 a pop, it makes it worthwhile to pull the shortblock and use the 'hard' AM seals for a couple bux apiece anyway -- which are still 'soft' seals (in my opinion) with the rubberized outside diameter but can be nicely coated with a layer of sealant for a snug fit prior to assembly.

​

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

Just got off the phone with a Stihl dealer buddy and he claims that 041 PTO side seal has always been a rubberized seal from day one. Could have sworn I've seen the metal one along the way, but good to know for the record..., and he would definitely know. Not much sense in me squakin' about trying to find a metal one now, is there? LOL Sorry for the unnecessary distraction.

I hope the LRB version works out ok. If not, there are plenty of reputable sources for 25x37x7 double lip gartered nitrile oil seals out there with varying degrees of quality and specs. Gotta be one that'll work if the LRB doesn't.