STIHL The Official Stihl Chainsaws Thread

[PogoInTheWoods]

The MediaCAT chain letter threads got all of Stihl's official CD digital stuff up until around 2012 circulated pretty well in a non-expiring format and is still going to some extent. Then there are the 'Beg for Manuals' threads for individual IPLs and Shop Manuals.

 

[Al Smith]

The problem stemmed from what the German based company claimed to be "intellectual " property which just means to me they wanted to control all sources of information .This I might add is not only limited to chainsaws but nearly everything that originates from that country . The way they pizzed and moaned about you'd almost think it was the secret of turning lead into gold .

 

[CrystalRiver1]

Heys Studs,

Help me ID this Stihl saw...the seller knows nothing about saws and even less about how to ID one.
It's missing rear top cover and pictures are crappy/bad angles!

Anybody???

Thanks

 

[lehman live edge slab]

Heys Studs,

Help me ID this Stihl saw...the seller knows nothing about saws and even less about how to ID one.
It's missing rear top cover and pictures are crappy/bad angles!

Anybody???

Thanks

View attachment 262933
View attachment 262934

Stihl 038 of some variety is my guess

 

[Al Smith]

That would be my guess also .Plus it looks like some variation of a couple of Homelite xl-12's

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

038.

 

[heimannm]

Update on the 011. I received the box and installed the "membrane" or better known as the reed plate in the subject 011. I had already acquired a Golf piston and had the rest of the saw put together, in fact installing the bearings on the big end of the connecting rod was not such a bad task.

Saw started right up and with a little adjusting seems to run O.K.....then it just quit like it was switched off. I messed with it for a while, made sure there was spark with an in line tester and all seemed good. Compression is around 130 PSI so that seems in order. I primed it, it started and ran then missed a bit like erratic spark then quit. Rebuilt the carburetor with new diaphragms, checked the metering lever setting, replaced the fuel line and fuel filter. Again, starts fines, seems to run nicely then at idle it misses like a spark issue and dies and will not restart. If I pull the plug immediately after it dies the plug is very dry and dark grey.

The spark plug wire does look pretty iffy where it passes through the clamp at the bottom of the saw with the insulation loose but the in line spark tester does not seem to show any misses.

Any ideas will be appreciated.

Mark

 

[lehman live edge slab]

The wire should just screw into the coil so easy enough to change and should also be a coil in box I sent. Those kill switches are a bit goofy also so I’d look it over. Sometimes they will kill spark in run position. Was the new reed the right one or was it the other style?

 

[heimannm]

The NOS reed was correct, in reality the 011 saws are pretty easy to work on.

Mark

 

[lehman live edge slab]

Yeah they’re not bad, might need to build yourself one out of the left overs. Could always go on a shelf the 011av I sent had pretty nice paint on it

 

[lehman live edge slab]

Any luck on the 011?

 

[heimannm]

Too many other things today. I will see about replacing the spark plug wire but I don't think that is the issue, seems to be fuel related.

Mark

 

[lehman live edge slab]

Too many other things today. I will see about replacing the spark plug wire but I don't think that is the issue, seems to be fuel related.

Mark

Maybe a soft fuel line collapsing when you rev it up

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

The fuel line can be pinched between the carb and the side of the air box and still look ok. May be worth checking.

Ditto on the kill switch being flakey on these. And the plug wire certainly sounds suspicious.

If a new case gasket was fitted, the web piece across the intake port must be trimmed away, but that's pretty obvious.

Could also be an air leak at the oil pump that doesn't get bad enough to kill the saw until a certain point. Vac/pressure test should detect that if visual inspection doesn't show a torn diaphragm or a poor gasket seal.

Still sounds like a spark issue to me. Start it in the dark and look for arcing -- or when pulling it over (or using a drill to crank it) after it dies.

 

[lehman live edge slab]

Actually just went through my cousins 064 he bought that had been rebuilt before he got it with china cylinder ect. Well got it all fixed up and he cut 4-5 chords with it set it down one time and it died and wouldn’t restart. He dropped it off again and I couldn’t get it to start just fire. Went over carb again put it in the saw fires up ran good till I set the saw down idled a bit died and no restart till I moved the plug wire. Wire was broken right where it comes out of coil on back side where it wasn’t visible. New plug wire runs great all the time now.

 

[Jungleman]

Howdy folks. Been a while since I posted here so I hope everyone's doing ok this year dealing with this Krona.

So I got a question about this little MS170 we use at work. I got about 5 stihls that I keep tuned up and running smooth but this 170 has been a problem child for years. It seems to always need the carburetor cleaned. It bogs down constantly. I replaced the carburetor kit last year and it ran ok for a bit. Now we got some chainsaw work coming up and it is once again boggingndown. I'm on the verge of either asking my boss to let me get a new carburetor or taking it to a shop to be serviced. I prefer doing it myself though.
Soaked the muffler in diesel and scraped it out a bit but it wasnt too dirty. It doesnt have a screen in there either so it cant be that.
Every time I pull out the carb to check it it is nice and clean and I just cant imagine needing to buy a new one.

So, any thoughts for this? Should I just go with the obvious and get a new carb? Any tips from some old vets? I ain't no rookie but I certainly dont have the knowledge as most guys on this forum.

Thanks.

Oh and dont tell me about old fuel lol I use fresh 97 octane and stihl 2 cycle oil only.

 

[lehman live edge slab]

Carb could be just failing internally,Adjustable jets or fixed jet carb? Could be lean because carb is internally plugged if it’s non adjustable carb. The fixed jet carbs were on the lean side to start with so between that and the exhaust screen being gone or could be running lean. Also depends on method of cleaning carb last time and did you use a good kit or cheap kit? Some kits have cheap diaphragms that don’t last. But if the carb is adjustable type and you cleaned with ultrasonic cleaner then put in a new good kit I’d say carb is bad. If it’s a fixed jet I’d buy a new adjustable one and replace it anyway but no cheap aftermarket carb buy an oem one my opinion. Last aftermarket one I tried on an 044 tuned in fine at the beginning but later went to give it another tweak and the low jet is locked up and can’t turn it like the threads galled up rebuilt the oem carb and it will go back on this week.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

Given no top end scoring and good compression with no air leaks anywhere, a new OEM carb is around $22 for that saw and will cure your problem. Part number is 1130-120-0603 for the C1Q-S57. It is a fixed jet carb as are all carbs for that saw with the exception of earlier 017's with the Walbro carb (which still had a fixed high jet with low adjust only). I'm not aware of a fully adjustable carb for the 1130 saws.

 

[lehman live edge slab]

Given no top end scoring and good compression with no air leaks anywhere, a new OEM carb is around $22 for that saw and will cure your problem. Part number is 1130-120-0603 for the C1Q-S57. It is a fixed jet carb as are all carbs for that saw with the exception of earlier 017's with the Walbro carb (which still had a fixed high jet with low adjust only). I'm not aware of a fully adjustable carb for the 1130 saws.

Yeah sorry was thinking on the 021-025 saws for the full adjustable carb.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

Yeah, the 1123-120-0605 WT215 is the no brainer there at $30. They usually dial in nicely.