STIHL The Official Stihl Chainsaws Thread

[fossil]

If you can get the broken bolt and helicoil out, I've had great luck filling in the area with aluminum brazing rod.

You will need MAP gas or something hot to get the area up to temperature because the cylinder is a large heat sink.

Follow the instruction carefully and when you're filling the hole stir the molten metal with the rod to get gas out of the bottom of the hole. Over fill it because it will shrink down once it cools.

File the filled area flat to the gasket surface and drill and tap it. The rod is pretty stout stuff.

It's a cheap, permanent fix you can do yourself.

 

[RI Chevy]

How about some JB Weld?

 

[Maintenance Chief]

How about some JB Weld?

Any thing associated with the muffler and jb weld has be a problem for me, and others I've seen on saws . I think the heat plus vibrations destroy it pretty quickly.
I think I'll try the aluminum brazing rod after I get all the bits out.

 

[stihl livin]

View attachment 234626 View attachment 234627 View attachment 234628 View attachment 234630 View attachment 234631
As you can see the muffler mount treaded holes have some issues also . I like that the heli- coil is growing out of the side of the wall and that there was a failed attempt to drill/ remove the old broken shank of the first screw but evidently they just gave up.
Im not sure whats fixable or reasonable to fix on this cylinder, I know i could get the steel bit of screw and heli coil out but I dont have a tig welder . What's it usually run to have it welded up?

contact mr Carr. He has some great skills to fix these things up for you. @srcarr52

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

Ditto from everything I've heard and read. That would include the plug threads, too. Otherwise, Tim's method certainly sounds viable. Depending on the plug thread carnage, I'd try a Heli-Coil Save-a-Thread insert. It's not a helical insert. More like a Time-Sert. I've used several with good success and they're my method of choice. Just gotta whack em real good with the provided punch to seat the knurled collar into the side of the hole as the last step. Can't mess around there or it can unthread when you try to remove a plug. Learned that with my first one. I also use red Loctite now instead of hi-temp silicon. Not sure that makes much difference, tho.

That saw may surprise you if you get it running right. I have four of em here from an area logger who loves his. Just can't seem to keep from runnin' over em or beatin' the snot out of em. Not the most robust design but it takes quite a lot to kill one. Never could figure out why anybody would buy one unless they wanted Mtron, tho. A 461 is more saw at roughly the same weight for only another couple bucks. The largest and oldest dealer in my area never even stocked 441's in favor of 461's. Sold a bunch of em, too.

 

[srcarr52]

Fixing an exhaust bolt hole usually runs around $40 to ditch cut it, weld it back in, make it flat and shoot the new hole.
$75 to weld the spark plug threads back in.
$10 to install a save-a-thread insert.

 

[Eddie Southgate]

My son just dragged home an 056av Magnum II and an 056av that may be a plain 056av . I got the Magnum II to start by squirting a tad of mix through the plug hole but the other one is a tad locked up , got it soaking and will try to turn it in a few days . Was wondering if anyone had a link to a manual download for the magnum II ? I found one that covers the other saws but could not find any listing specifically for the magnum II . Little *s-word gave $150 for both .

Is there an indicator besides the top tag that it would be a super or magnum ? Can read it on the one but on the other saw it looks like there was something under the 056 AV but if it was it's completely gone but has a ghost look like it did say something . Thanks for any help you can give.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

That's a lot of territory to cover as the 1115 series went through numerous changes over the years. Best way to start is to measure cylinder bores to see what ya have, then go from there to dig up the applicable info. Serial numbers will help identify production ranges and reflect design changes in the various IPLs. Here's a link to a boatload of info I digitized several years back courtesy of @Definitive Dave. There's a lot to digest, but just about anything you want to know about the 1115 series will be there somewhere. The tech notes provide the general history of design changes. The Mag II is a slightly different animal than the earlier versions.

https://drive.google.com/drive/fold...pGZVV1OFNYdGptSVJhUmNVWkJ0SWlkYTg?usp=sharing

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

Let's see if this will attach separately.....

Guess so. Early Owner's Manual

 

[Eddie Southgate]

Thanks Pogo .

 

[Eddie Southgate]

Pogo ,

Those files bogged my internet down so bad my roku went off line for over 30 minutes after I downloaded the last one ! My internet kinda sucks . Really appreciate the files .

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

Sorry 'bout that. LOL The files are pretty large as PDF's go. I took high-res pics of each page as .jpegs instead of scanning directly to PDF. Converted all the page pics of each IPL in batches to PDF's and then merged em all into a single PDF for each manual or IPL. Sounds like a pain in the ass, but I actually found it to be faster and higher quality than fumbling around with a scanner.

That old hard copy stuff is like gold these days. It simply doesn't exist in digital form. I hope it comes in handy. That's what it's for.

 

[Eddie Southgate]

Lost a hero the other day and didn't know it till just now . Listen close to the best song writer that ever lived .

.

 

[Al Smith]

My son just dragged home an 056av Magnum II and an 056av that may be a plain 056av . I got the Magnum II to start by squirting a tad of mix through the plug hole but the other one is a tad locked up , got it soaking

On a stuck engine an old trick I've used forever that will work if it's stuck above the ports .Use an old spark plug to make an adapter using the plug shell with a grease zert and a grease gun full of oil .It will either come or bleed . Remove the cylinder bolts and jack the cylinder off the piston .it usually only needs to move a fraction of an inch .If you like look up a post I made under Partner p-100 topic .Pictures are there .

 

[Eddie Southgate]

Thanks Al , if the PB Blast I got soaking in it now don't work that's what I'll do . That trick works for a lot of things that you need to move . I have known of people using it to unload a Muzzleloader that they forgot to put powder in , bit messy but it do work .

 

[Al Smith]

It's so simple.The average cheapie TSC grease gun is around 5,000 PSI . Something is going to move or break .another old trick is heat the cylinder up with a heat gun .I salvaged the piston from a Cat D4 pony engine and the crankshaft from a tractor then sat for 40 years that went through a fire using that method except I heated the cylinder with a rose bud .Now that was hot .

 

[Al Smith]

. That trick works for a lot of things that you need to move . I have known of people using it to unload a Muzzleloader that they forgot to put powder in , bit messy but it do work .

I have known a few people forget to powder them ,try to snatch the ball out with a worm then unscrew the nipple and pack as much flash powder in as they can and torch it off .Works sometimes,some times not .--I've also known people to shoot the ram rod which is only good for one trip .I also now this nut that black powered an old flat head Dodge truck engine loose using a plug modified for arc and a model T Ford coil .That guy was a tight wad nut .It's a wonder he didn't blow his head off .

 

[old 040]

Finally got around to giving this old girl a clean up and go-over, guessing around 1973 vintage, other than the B/C (which I still have) it's all original, still runs great, still have a soft spot for the 030 and early 031's.....

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

Sweet!

 

[Eddie Southgate]

Need some advice from you 041av owners . Needing to replace the air filters in my two saws I bought three off ebay that turn out to obviously be cheap chinese replacements that do not fit . They are a tad too long and the locating pins do not fit . I see that oregon makes a replacement for #1110 120 1601 which is the number on my original filters .Can anyone tell me if they actually fit correctly or not ? Mine is so old on one the flocking is coming off and the other one has holes in the screen and the flocking is coming off . Thanks .