DOLMAR/MAKITA The Official Sachs Dolmar Dolmar Makita Dolmar Chainsaws Thread

[Deputyrpa]

Yup, you should like it mote so now.

Iffen it would start..... It's flooding.

Where is the line coming out of the bottom of the carb supposed to be routed? I wasn't paying attention when I took it out. On the side, the rearward line is fuel, the front is impulse., correct?

 

[huskihl]

Iffen it would start..... It's flooding.

Where is the line coming out of the bottom of the carb supposed to be routed? I wasn't paying attention when I took it out. On the side, the rearward line is fuel, the front is impulse., correct?

The line coming out of the bottom is just the atmospheric vent for the metering diaphragm. It hooks to a peg on the right hand side of the carburetor floor.

 

[Wilhelm]

The one in the middle seems to go somewhere under the carb, out or into the carb floor.
The ribbed one also carb floor, different spot.
The left one, impulse?!
It has been a long while since I last had one of these apart.

 

[Wilhelm]

The line coming out of the bottom is just the atmospheric vent for the metering diaphragm. It hooks to a peg on the right hand side of the carburetor floor.

Yeah, this guy knows these saws!

 

[Deputyrpa]

Yeah, this guy knows these saws!

Yep, he does. I do have everything hooked up right, so now I have to figure out why it doesn't start. The only thing I did since it ran yesterday was gut and install the muffler and put the air filter on.

 

[Deputyrpa]

Since I received my Chinesium carb tools, I'll check the H, L and Idle settings and go from there. Too much fuel would indicate a carb issue, but I already dealt with that. It doesn't seem to be too much fuel - just flooding after many pulls. Maybe the kill switch or the plug up and died, so I have to check those.

 

[Powerstroke Cowboy]

Since I received my Chinesium carb tools, I'll check the H, L and Idle settings and go from there. Too much fuel would indicate a carb issue, but I already dealt with that. It doesn't seem to be too much fuel - just flooding after many pulls. Maybe the kill switch or the plug up and died, so I have to check those.

These saws are easy to flood. Little is much when it comes to choking these things.

From the sounds of it, it didn't even try to fire?

 

[Wilhelm]

Once You mod the muffler on these it gets hard to hear that "pop" under choke.
If You miss it and pull 1 time too often under choke these will flood miserably!

Try this:
- take the plug out
- turn the saw upsidedown to see whether fuel will flow out of the cylinder
- pull the engine slowly over several times
- let her sit a while with the plug out to allow fuel to evaporate
- put her back together and try to start her WITH NO CHOKE NOR HIGH IDLE

Also a possible start up solution when these are flooded:
- take a zip tie or piece of rope and engage FULL THROTTLE but NO CHOKE
- pull till she starts
- watch Your fingers and joints as she may hydro lock and rip the handle out of Your hand, maybe even backfire

 

[Wilhelm]

Cold start!

PS-6400

"Wilhelm" on YouTube - this is my channel

Sorry that there is no ‘dislike’ button on this forum. Only :( . Philbert

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PS-7300

"Wilhelm" on YouTube - this is my channel

Sorry that there is no ‘dislike’ button on this forum. Only :( . Philbert

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PS-7310

"Wilhelm" on YouTube - this is my channel

Sorry that there is no ‘dislike’ button on this forum. Only :( . Philbert

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PS-7900

"Wilhelm" on YouTube - this is my channel

Sorry that there is no ‘dislike’ button on this forum. Only :( . Philbert

opeforum.com

 

[Wilhelm]

I just re-watched my own videos, the pop on the PS-7310 is barely noticeable.

Why the first "cold" pull no choke & high idle?
Because these saws like to pop cold first pull!
With engaged choke & high idle such a "cold pop" will cause them to flood severely.
By my estimation about 75% of flooding is avoided by giving them one first pull without choke/high idle engaged.

 

[Wilhelm]

Why no DeCo?
You just end up pulling more often as You loose compression!

Also, the pop with the DeCo pushed in is so weak You'll just miss hearing it.

I tried utilizing the DeCo's on my saws, they don't work for me - so I don't use them at all.

 

[Deputyrpa]

Thanks Wilhelm! I had already watched all of your videos when I first got the saw, LOL! I tried all that after my last post, and I did not get any pops at all. I even changed to a new plug. There's lots of fuel in the cylinder. I removed the muffler and the piston was juicy. I also removed the carb and took it apart to check everything, and it's fine - clean as a whistle and nice needle action. I'll let it dry out and try again. I'm wondering if it's the impulse line. It's still supple, but looks suspect near the cylinder. Also, the gas absolutely fountained out of the line when I disconnected it from the carb. I have to find the vent.

 

[Wilhelm]

I gave up a couple times on trying to start my PS-7900, next day she'd get a pop one pull.

These saws are also prone to vapor locking, but upon checking the plug You'd notice it being dry as opposed to being wet from flooding.

 

[Deputyrpa]

I replaced the impulse line. Filled it with gas. And she started right up. It didn't idle correctly because of that cable being a hair too short for some reason, so I pried the backet upward as I tightened the carb down. Then I held the trigger and pulled the cable with a pliars. That seemed to do the trick. She runs good! I had my safety slippers on.

 

[huskihl]

Thanks Wilhelm! I had already watched all of your videos when I first got the saw, LOL! I tried all that after my last post, and I did not get any pops at all. I even changed to a new plug. There's lots of fuel in the cylinder. I removed the muffler and the piston was juicy. I also removed the carb and took it apart to check everything, and it's fine - clean as a whistle and nice needle action. I'll let it dry out and try again. I'm wondering if it's the impulse line. It's still supple, but looks suspect near the cylinder. Also, the gas absolutely fountained out of the line when I disconnected it from the carb. I have to find the vent.

It’s not the vent, they aren’t supposed to vent out. Your metering needle is still leaking if the muffler is filling with fuel

 

[Deputyrpa]

It’s not the vent, they aren’t supposed to vent out. Your metering needle is still leaking if the muffler is filling with fuel

Yeah, I figured that out after I looked at it.

 

[huskihl]

Yeah, I figured that out after I looked at it.

A free flowing vent probably fixes it, but it’s a bandaid. If it still fills with gas, try polishing that seat more and stretch the spring a little. Also make sure the gasket is on first, then metering diaphragm and then the cover. And that the lever is flush or even slightly low

 

[Deputyrpa]

A free flowing vent probably fixes it, but it’s a bandaid. If it still fills with gas, try polishing that seat more and stretch the spring a little. Also make sure the gasket is on first, then metering diaphragm and then the cover. And that the lever is flush or even slightly low

Thanks. When I took the carb off again this afternoon, I rechecked all of that. I did bend the needle tab down just a hair below flush. It seems all issues have been resolved, as it runs better now.

 

[Deputyrpa]

Dag Nabbit! I deployed JB weld to glue the clutch cover crack. As soon as I put the bar and chain on and torqued it down, it cracked again. I have to grind off the JB and TIG weld it. I've been gtting a lot of practice lately.....

I also noticed that the chain was quite hard to spin with the bolts torqued down.. There's a slight front-to-back cup in the cover which I will address when I weld the crack.

But the aluminum is worn to the point where the cover indexes into the bar slot. That may be the cause of the crack. Perhaps I can build that back up with welds, or take the easy road and mill that entire area flat. When I say "mill", I mean hand file, LOL!

 

[Powerstroke Cowboy]

Dag Nabbit! I deployed JB weld to glue the clutch cover crack. As soon as I put the bar and chain on and torqued it down, it cracked again. I have to grind off the JB and TIG weld it. I've been gtting a lot of practice lately.....
View attachment 380106
I also noticed that the chain was quite hard to spin with the bolts torqued down.. There's a slight front-to-back cup in the cover which I will address when I weld the crack.
View attachment 380104
But the aluminum is worn to the point where the cover indexes into the bar slot. That may be the cause of the crack. Perhaps I can build that back up with welds, or take the easy road and mill that entire area flat. When I say "mill", I mean hand file, LOL!
View attachment 380105

That's to bad!! I believe the cover is Magnesium, not Aluminium.

If you look at the slot where the chip deflector goes in your first picture you will see Mg, I believe that's stands for Magnesium.