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DOLMAR/MAKITA The Official Sachs Dolmar Dolmar Makita Dolmar Chainsaws Thread

Deputyrpa

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At the expense of appearing stupid, I just realized how that little “stud” works. Indeed, the double D will work. If I remember (now) correctly, the tool slides down over the round head pushing down on a spring before engaging the double D part of the needle. I’ve seen it before , once on my Solo 656. Was only trying to be helpful.
I appreciate it! Upon the advice of @huskihl , I ordered a carb tool kit. I should get it today.
Get it running right with a gutted muffler and a bigger port you will be smiling for sure.

Or do a complete port job and the grin will never leave.
Oh yeah. I'm going to slice the muffler today and remove that dorky insert and other nonsense. The saw had apparently been running so rich that the muffler leaked fuel all over my bench. That leads me to believe that there may not be an air leak at all. The throttle cable may have gotten misrouted or something when I put the carb back on.
 
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Shane¹

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I appreciate it! Upon the advice of @huskihl , I ordered a carb tool kit. I should get it today.

Oh yeah. I'm going to slice the muffler today and remove that dorky insert and other nonsense. The saw had apparently been running so rich that the muffler leaked fuel all over my bench. That leads me to believe that there may not be an air leak at all. The throttle cable may have gotten misrouted or something when I put the carb back on.
I believe some of the 7910s had low pop off pressure due to the spring in the carb being too soft and it would flood them out might be worth looking into that too maybe just doing a quick carb rebuild to make sure all good
 

huskihl

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At the expense of appearing stupid, I just realized how that little “stud” works. Indeed, the double D will work. If I remember (now) correctly, the tool slides down over the round head pushing down on a spring before engaging the double D part of the needle. I’ve seen it before , once on my Solo 656. Was only trying to be helpful.
I’ve seen other ones that aren’t adjustable, but that may have been done by Home Depot themselves. They filled the entire H jet head with epoxy.
 

huskihl

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I believe some of the 7910s had low pop off pressure due to the spring in the carb being too soft and it would flood them out might be worth looking into that too maybe just doing a quick carb rebuild to make sure all good
It’s not really from pop off pressure, as we know it. 15 psi has always been enough traditionally if the needle is actually sealing. The ones I have tested had in excess of 30 psi pop off, but would still flow through the needle with any pressure in the tank. There is an imperfection in the seat. Polishing that seat with something cut on a similar angle seems to fix it
 

Deputyrpa

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I took the carb apart and polished the seat already. The wierd issue is that throttle cable. When attached to the plastic bracket on the throttle lever, it holds the throttle open quite a bit. More than can be done by the idle screw fully turned in.

I'm still working on my boat trailer axles. When I was TIG welding the new torsion suspension boxes on (1/2" aluminum), I would work on the saw while the TIG torch cooled down. Now I'm assembling the hubs and disc brakes. After I run out and get a hub, flare some brake line, and install the axle, I'll be back on the saw.
 

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huskihl

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I took the carb apart and polished the seat already. The wierd issue is that throttle cable. When attached to the plastic bracket on the throttle lever, it holds the throttle open quite a bit. More than can be done by the idle screw fully turned in.

I'm still working on my boat trailer axles. When I was TIG welding the new torsion suspension boxes on (1/2" aluminum), I would work on the saw while the TIG torch cooled down. Now I'm assembling the hubs and disc brakes. After I run out and get a hub, flare some brake line, and install the axle, I'll be back on the saw.
Good chance the end of the sheath is out of its place hold in the tank handle
 

Deputyrpa

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So I separted the 7910 muffler. NO stuffing in there, but this inner chamber is funky, and has a teenie escape hole. I'm figuring removing the chamber and going with a 1" pipe sliced and bent a bit at an angle to preven direct exhaust exit. I also have to hammer out the big dent in the front.
 

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farminkarman

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So I separted the 7910 muffler. NO stuffing in there, but this inner chamber is funky, and has a teenie escape hole. I'm figuring removing the chamber and going with a 1" pipe sliced and bent a bit at an angle to preven direct exhaust exit. I also have to hammer out the big dent in the front.
Now you know that Dolmar engineers hid a crackpipe in those mufflers.
 

Wilhelm

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So I separted the 7910 muffler. NO stuffing in there, but this inner chamber is funky, and has a teenie escape hole. I'm figuring removing the chamber and going with a 1" pipe sliced and bent a bit at an angle to preven direct exhaust exit. I also have to hammer out the big dent in the front.
That is an SLR muffler, exhaust scavanging.
Not as bad as a CAT muffler, but still choking the PH extremely.

Just cut the SLR pipe off its base and open up the existing exhaust outlet.
Your saw will like that!
Do not make any internal baffle, You'll just choke flow down!
 

Deputyrpa

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That is an SLR muffler, exhaust scavanging.
Not as bad as a CAT muffler, but still choking the PH extremely.

Just cut the SLR pipe off its base and open up the existing exhaust outlet.
Your saw will like that!
Do not make any internal baffle, You'll just choke flow down!
Can't I just throw the entire SLR away?
 

Wilhelm

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Can't I just throw the entire SLR away?

You could. But the flange is also part of the muffler mount.
I have pics of my SLR muffler mod somewhere here on OPE.
You need the SLR tubes mount as it doubles as part of the mufflers internal spacer.

Cut everything on both sides of the mounting plate off and You are done with that.
Then take the mufflers front half, remove the screen and grind the factory outlet hole open.
You don't "need" a second outlet unless You really want one or the saw is heavily ported.
 

Deputyrpa

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Thanks @Wilhelm. I just took a look and that's exactly what the SLR flange is only good for - a spacer between the screw tubes and the back half of the muffler. I'm looking for a 1" pipe in my scrap pile, but if i don't find one, I'll just open it up as you did.
 

Deputyrpa

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Good chance the end of the sheath is out of its place hold in the tank handle
So I checked everthing, and the trigger pivot was all seated good, and there were no obstructions and such. So I held the cable tip with a pliars and squeezed the trigger hard a few times until it gave up and rested correctly. I'm happy I didn't break any plastic. I was just trying to convince it, lol.
 
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