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DOLMAR/MAKITA The Official Sachs Dolmar Dolmar Makita Dolmar Chainsaws Thread

old_sir_henry

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I have reassembled the crankcase with the new Solo 681 crankshaft. Fits and turns :aaaaa:

crankcase_reassembled_1.jpg

crankcase_reassembled_2.jpg


then I gave the case some spots of fresh alkyd enamel and then put the body for another 2 hours back into the oven.

crankcase_coating_1.jpg

crankcase_coating_2.jpg

Next thing will be to determine, how thick (if any) the cylinder gasket needs to be to accommodate for the longer stroke.

I'll keep you current ...
 

old_sir_henry

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Happy Xmas everybody, even if it's almost over now.
Since you can't spend all the days singing or eating a little chainsaw work might come in handy...

I for one have carried on with my 8700 project and reassembled the top-end of the machine.
I did need 1.5 mm additional gasket to achieve ~0.5mm clearance between top of the piston
and cylinder. First I thought I could get away with full gasket delete, but that was before
I figured I had forgotten the piston pin's needle bearing ...

reassembly_right_side.jpg

The oil-pump didn't need any shimming, everything fits perfectly well. Unfortunately I found I'll need
a new carb bottom since the existing one has a broken a hinge-pin for one of the cover clamps.
And since my Dolmar dealer is in holiday for the next one and a half weeks, progress stalls.

So I'm using the time to prepare some peripheral components such as covers:

black_covers.jpg

and reassembling the muffler with spark arrestors cannibalized out of a hobby 101 muffler.

spark_arrestor_ls.jpg

I had planned the deflector to allow the arrestor mesh to slide into it and here is the proof it actually works as intended.
 
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old_sir_henry

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Here in Germany prices for big classic SACHS-DOLMAR saws seem to go nuts currently.

In german ebay there is a 133 super offered with 1000 € starting price and 1400 €
"Buy it now" (2nd 8-day auction, the first ended with no bids). Crazy.
I bought my 133 super (a saw in real good shape) 2 1/2 years ago for reasonable 240 €
and 250 to 300 € are what could be considered as current market price.

In classified ebay a copycat offered a 133 (not super) for 999 € and another seller has announced a
143 without any pricetag but for max bid and please not to bother him with 500 € offers. Both ads are NLA.
(Both my 143 in good condition did cost me ~300 € each, the second and better one only 5 months ago,
so 500 € is in fact a pretty good price which the seller of the saw seems to consider not worth bothering)

OK, these people will very likely not reach their fantasy prices and they are that much off what's
realistic but the fact that they dare might be a door opener for coming rises in prices for classic saws.

What is the situation in other countries? Do you see similar tendencies?
 

old_sir_henry

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Few days ago I wrote:
And since the Solo crankshaft has 2 mm lager stroke than the Dolmar,

that was wrong, sorry. The Solo crank only gives 1 mm more stroke, otherwise we'd end up with 89.5 ccm.
But 87 ccm hopefully will be number to count on, provided the saw will start at all and if, not crash within
the first hours after all those mods applied.
And please don't ask for timings: I don't know, I haven't applied a degree wheel. This might happen later once the saw is running at all.
 

old_sir_henry

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ca and cc 100-150€

apparently more wide spread since there are quite a few of them available.
But shape of the offered saws is even more wide spread. For 150 € you'll probably find
a very good CA, for a similar CC add another 100 €.

But what are price tendencies outside Germany?
 

Graf

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sorry, I meant I found 150€ for cc and 100€ for ca

just curious, how much is a Sachs Dolmar Wankel?
 

SOS Ridgerider

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Brand new Makita 5600 getting a couple of different muffler mods.
3C4FDD74-2DC3-4859-BD56-DF95B8BD9EB9.jpeg

Not much inside the muffler on these, other than the baffle.
800B215C-01A5-461B-A1BE-49F7E23B02C0.jpeg

Stock looking muffler, with removed baffle, back on the saw.
28213D45-A7B0-4476-8F29-8B56E3B78FFC.jpeg

Second muffler. Baffle removed, stock outlet opened as much as possible, and an extra outlet installed.
83A34C88-CFA8-4566-9D89-EC7F3ACF2185.jpeg 1AC386C1-EA67-46B7-AAE2-0C544D7B2AE0.jpeg

We’ll try it out tomorrow, and see if there’s a difference. If the one with the extra outlet doesn’t make it run any better, it’ll at least be a lot louder. Lol
 

SOS Ridgerider

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Did you buy the saw with multiple mufflers to be prepared for experiments?
Don't they normally come with only one pot installed?
This saw belongs to @166 who is a Makita dealer. He sent a couple of mufflers to see how this saw reacts to different muffler mods.
Dolmar customers in the US receive two new stock mufflers with each new to them saw model so they can figure out what muffler mod works best for them.

@SOS Ridgerider

:p
Yes, that’s exactly how it works over here:D:rolleyes:
 

old_sir_henry

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The PS-8700 is finished so far. There are still some parts to change like airbox-bottom an choke guide but ordering of parts
is postponed to the saw having withstand its first test runs, provided it will start and run at all...

I will try to fire her up tomorrow.

For now I have put her to a couple of future room mates:

8700_finished_roommates.jpg
 
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old_sir_henry

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I'm currently suffering a modest cold I must have caught these days, so I wasn't as enthusiastic to fire up the 8700 as expected.

Fueled her and found her spilling oil on the clutch side. So I had to fix that first. Meant removing bar & chain, guide plate, clutch, brake loop and oil-pump in order to clean and re-insert the grommet of the suction line.

Found she also spills a little fuel through the air valve but left that as is for now.

Then outside I gave a little fuel into the intake funnel and pulled.

She is a hard one to pull!

Especially if absolutely nothing happens!

I even removed the spark plug and gave some droplets of fuel directly into the spark bore but again, not a single cough.
Then again unscrewed the plug, connected it and held it to the metal body of the saw and pulled: Plug fires! But no cough. Since I have been fooled by failing spark plugs before I then replaced it with a brandnew NGK plug, and voilà: Saw fires on first stroke.

But by far doesn't run well, she doesn't accelerate well, it feels more like the engine is starving when you open the throttle as if L were extremely lean. I opened up L about 1/2 and H 1/8 turn (starting from H1 / L1)and that seemed to help a bit but still one must be very careful and slow when
pulling the trigger and I don't think she goes up to max speed yet but I haven't had a tach installed.

At least she runs at all, hasn't crashed within the first minutes and didn't spit chips of metal ...
What would be a recommend base setting for the modified carb? I'm currently at approx. H 1 1/4 and L 1 1/2.
 
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