POULAN The Official Poulan Thread

[Al Smith]

A Poulan S-25 weights about the same as a Stihl 020AV top handle and they both cut at nearly the same speed .The Poulan was the first saw I ever bought ,new in the early 70's and it still runs fine .It doesn't get much run time these days because I have a pair of Stihl 200 Ts ,one has been "enhanced ".BTW I also have a Stihl 020AV the most frustrating saw to work on ever made .

 

[lehman live edge slab]

A Poulan S-25 weights about the same as a Stihl 020AV top handle and they both cut at nearly the same speed .The Poulan was the first saw I ever bought ,new in the early 70's and it still runs fine .It doesn't get much run time these days because I have a pair of Stihl 200 Ts ,one has been "enhanced ".BTW I also have a Stihl 020AV the most frustrating saw to work on ever made .

I may be a little sick but I don’t mind the 020av or 020 avp to work on but can’t stand a mini mac

 

[heimannm]

With Mini Mac saws you get a lot of practice...on every saw.

 

[Al Smith]

You can add the little Homelites to that list too .

 

[Al Smith]

This"turtle shell" design was a popular way to build certain earlier small saws and in some form more modern saws .One that sticks out are the small Husqarna top handles .If memory serves 235 maybe ? You just about need to field strip those things to do anything on them .I've got a couple of them with failed oilers .The trimmers gave them to me . .Reason they bought them was becausse they were less expensive than a Stihl 020T .They ran fine they just wouldn't oil .I've got a box full of them I may or likely not ever repair them .For that matter I might never find the box again .

 

[FergusonTO35]

With Mini Mac saws you get a lot of practice...on every saw.

Back in the 2010's I had a whole fleet of Mini Macs because I hate myself. Seriously though, I didn't find them hard to work on or keep going so much as they are time consuming to work on. The case has to come apart to do anything but the most basic maintenance items. On the plus side, they didn't strike me as cheaply made, even the Eager Beaver versions. Also, when you buy a Mini Mac even as a non-runner it probably doesn't have much actual use on it. Most parts including the housing were metal and the fuel tank and other plastic bits were pretty robust. They gave me good service and most of them ran when I sold them.

 

[Al Smith]

Since the conversation of Mini Macs came up I also have a box full of them and maybe another 3 or 4 intact ,all freebies .The oilers were the weak link .Once used by the trimmers who might get lucky and get two years out of them then buy another one .One or two of those things had such short run time they had the original chains ,never filed .Bought to trim the apple tree then sat for 5 months and then wouldn't oil .The little Homelites did about the same xl2 etc .All that goes back nearly 50 years and then the Poulans and the Stihl were the best on the market.

 

[Clarkbug]

Hey all.

I picked up a Poulan Pro PP295 at a flea market for a few dollars. It appears to have lived under an oily sawdust pile for the past several years. First time delving into anything on the yellow side. I have to say the cable throttle linkage was a bit of a pain to deal with....

Fuel line broke at the tank and the air filter was nasty, so figure that's why it was put away. But, I checked compression and it's low 100's. I tried to pull the muffler, but it's not coming loose. From the IPLs I can find it looks like I have a type 1 or 2 (tag is missing), so just two bolts on the outside of it, and I am guessing one is inside.

Questions for you guys: Is that compression too low to bother with? Any tips for separating the muffler halfs so I can get a gander at the piston? Looking through the plug hole it doesn't look like scoring on the exhaust side of the jug...

Thanks!

 

[fossil]

Squirt some mix in the spark pug hole and see if it will start.

That will get some lube in there. Some saws sitting for a long time might have a dry cylinder or stuck rings.

As far as the muffler bolts go, use some heat on the bolts.

A peppy saw for what they are.

 

[Clarkbug]

Squirt some mix in the spark pug hole and see if it will start.

That will get some lube in there. Some saws sitting for a long time might have a dry cylinder or stuck rings.

As far as the muffler bolts go, use some heat on the bolts.

A peppy saw for what they are.

Thanks for the ideas!

Wanted to clarify I can get the two external bolts out, but I think there is one more inside the can I cannot get to. I'll have to see if I can heat up the seam to get it to pop open for me.

EDIT: It runs for a second with fuel poured down the plug hole, so that's something. Guess it's worth trying to fix it up....

Secondary question. Does anyone know off hand the o-ring sizes for the fuel and oil caps? I'm pretty sure these ones are shot. I can measure, but didn't know if it was a common knowledge sorta thing with these saws...

 

[fossil]

Thanks for the ideas!

Wanted to clarify I can get the two external bolts out, but I think there is one more inside the can I cannot get to. I'll have to see if I can heat up the seam to get it to pop open for me.

EDIT: It runs for a second with fuel poured down the plug hole, so that's something. Guess it's worth trying to fix it up....

Secondary question. Does anyone know off hand the o-ring sizes for the fuel and oil caps? I'm pretty sure these ones are shot. I can measure, but didn't know if it was a common knowledge sorta thing with these saws...

The proper "O" rings for the fuel and oil caps measure 1/8" thick with an ID of 1-1/16" . Make sure they are nitrile (BUNA N)

To split the muffler take a small slot screw driver with a sharp tip and pry it open. You can tap the flange back into place before you assemble it.

 

[Clarkbug]

The proper "O" rings for the fuel and oil caps measure 1/8" thick with an ID of 1-1/16" . Make sure they are nitrile (BUNA N)

To split the muffler take a small slot screw driver with a sharp tip and pry it open. You can tap the flange back into place before you assemble it.

Much thanks! Ill snag some o rings and will try that trick to separate the halves.

I don't have the tool that fits the clutch, but would an adjustable pin wrench for an angle grinder work? Or I can try to find some pins or bolts that will fit and find a way to hold them at the right spacing. I tried using some plates from a brake caliper tools set that I have, but none of them lined up appropriately.

 

[Bill G]

There are several people looking for Poulan 4000 top ends. I am wondering if there are any other models that will fit the 4000. I have several 4200 and 4400 saws here but of course they are larger.

 

[fossil]

Much thanks! Ill snag some o rings and will try that trick to separate the halves.

I don't have the tool that fits the clutch, but would an adjustable pin wrench for an angle grinder work? Or I can try to find some pins or bolts that will fit and find a way to hold them at the right spacing. I tried using some plates from a brake caliper tools set that I have, but none of them lined up appropriately.

I made a few sockets that work well on clutches. Take an old or cheap socket and cut down on them with a hack saw and break the piesces out af the socket to leave two opossing tabs. Works well.