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The Official Log Splitter thread

Homemade

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Yeah, I could see how the are nice if your splitting two vastly different length wood often.


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Dub11

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Hey guys I have a question. My uncle has a 22 ton splitter. The 6.75 intek seems like it' on its last leg. It looks to be belt driving from the motor to pump. So my question is would it be bad for the pump to install a 14 horse Briggs on it?
 

Fifelaker

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Hey guys I have a question. My uncle has a 22 ton splitter. The 6.75 intek seems like it' on its last leg. It looks to be belt driving from the motor to pump. So my question is would it be bad for the pump to install a 14 horse Briggs on it?
Won't hurt a thing. The pumps only care about RPM's and the magic number is 3,600 RPM's.
 

Dub11

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The Briggs would be over kill but if you already have it use it .The advantage would be if the pump has an adjustable pressure device you could set the transfer pressure higher before it transfers to low volume .

Yeah it would be over kill and a hassle. I got a carb on order for the original motor.

I just did want to assume it would be doable then break more chit in the process.
 

Nighthunter

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OK so I have a new honda gx 200 6.5 hp engine and gonna get a hydraulic pump for it. The shop where I'm getting the pump say that the engine would not power a 2 stage 12 gpm pump and that a 2 stage 8 gpm pump would be the biggest I can get as any bigger would overpower the engine. Has anyone got any suggestions
 

Ryan Browne

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OK so I have a new honda gx 200 6.5 hp engine and gonna get a hydraulic pump for it. The shop where I'm getting the pump say that the engine would not power a 2 stage 12 gpm pump and that a 2 stage 8 gpm pump would be the biggest I can get as any bigger would overpower the engine. Has anyone got any suggestions


I'm not an expert, but couldn't you just lower the relief pressure if it wants to stall the engine?
 

Al Smith

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A little tid bit of info which might be of interest .For reasons unknown the detent portion of my home built failed,would not transfer on return .It's a Prince model 3000- LS valve .After spending half an hour finding the working drawing I did some research and found an easier way than disassembling the valve .Pull the pin on the handle and rotate the slide assembly 180 degrees . worked . Evidently for again unknown reasons these things hang up the detent sleeve .I've got a screen on the pressure line and a 10 micron filter on the return line so it should certainly not be dirty oil .I've got 8-10 gallons of Dextron II so it's not over heating plus it's a 5 inch cylinder So it certainly cannot be burnt oil .A great mystery .
 
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weesa20

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Anyone use an auto cycle valve? Is it worth $300ish? I find myself splitting wood by my self more and more and can see an auto cycle valve more profitable then a 4 way.


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Yes. Have one on my tw6. Depending on the size of wood, I can set the piece, hit the levers and get the next piece staged. I work by myself as well.

a word of caution on the stroke reducers- I have seen reports of damage to both the rod-wedge/plate connection or to the rod seals. Many rod ends are not designed to withstand resistance on the return stroke and broke the wedge of the rod.

w
 

Al Smith

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Generally speaking most cylinders will bottom out before you hit the rod end .If the detent is not set heavy once it hits a certain pressure the return should stop .Having said that I personally would not trust an autocycle valve .It's hard to pick your nose with a couple of fingers missing .
While I'm at it I don't throttle mine up faster than at best 2/3 throttle even set horizontal on small stuff because it can run faster than I can feed it even with a 5 inch cylinder .
 

weesa20

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These are the ones I have seen people have trouble with. They go on the rod and effectively shorten the rod in relation to the cylinder to reduce the stroke.A897992B-7A8B-4030-A29C-BF57888F0372.jpeg
 

Ryan Browne

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Generally speaking most cylinders will bottom out before you hit the rod end .If the detent is not set heavy once it hits a certain pressure the return should stop .Having said that I personally would not trust an autocycle valve .It's hard to pick your nose with a couple of fingers missing .
While I'm at it I don't throttle mine up faster than at best 2/3 throttle even set horizontal on small stuff because it can run faster than I can feed it even with a 5 inch cylinder .

With an auto cycle, the pressure required to kick the valve out of detent must be pretty high because it has to be higher than the pressure that kicks the extend side of the valve out. Otherwise it'll get to the end of the stroke and kick both valves out instead of just the extend side.

Personally I don't think it's any more dangerous than a regular splitter. I like that once it's engaged I don't need to be standing next to it. Hard to lose a finger if my hands are 5' from the splitter grabbing the next round. But, I don't let anyone else's hands near the beam when I'm splitting, and there's only a couple people I'd let run it other than myself.
 

BuckthornBonnie

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The beauty of the auto cycle valve is finding a rhythm when working alone. I don’t frequently need to use the true auto cycle feature, but it does save some time. I typically have both levers down, and use the extend lever to manage the pushplate position. Sorta hard to explain in writing, but it works well. The full cycle is useful when moving splits, grabbing a distant round, etc.

Any splitter is dangerous. The AC valves add another element that users need to understand and respect during use.
 
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