Talk me out of a Home Depot Makita 64cc for $253

[LittleLebowski]

Fire her up get it warm before you make any adjustments yes. Then try the idle screw again. Then as it idles find the happy place on yer low needle I've had a saw that I had to mess with the low needle to make the chain stop doing that. Same saw the chain moves a little until it is warmed up

I tried and was not able to stop the chain from moving via adjusting idle nor the low needle. The saw runs well but will not stop moving the chain at idle. I took off the clutch cover and all looks well, all springs are intact. The saw has been cleaned fairly well by using an air compressor.

 

[jakethesnake]

I tried and was not able to stop the chain from moving via adjusting idle nor the low needle. The saw runs well but will not stop moving the chain at idle. I took off the clutch cover and all looks well, all springs are intact. The saw has been cleaned fairly well by using an air compressor.

Did you notice any change in the engine as you adjusted ?? It possibly though I doubt. Could be the clutch. I'm doubting that though. That sum *b-word should slow down with adjustments to the idle screw at least

 

[jakethesnake]

Not to sound like a jackass but you are certain you were on the correct needle?

 

[jakethesnake]

Also you are certain your driver is on the needle I had this happen with a new to me 346. Felt like I was turning the needle but I wasn't I tune that saw with the top cover off now as it feels like you're in but you ain't lol. True story there fought that saw for days then threw it back in the truck over and over again. There is no more that could be done less someone else knows If this doesn't resolve start a new thread that's all the smarter I am I don't know of anything else

 

[Wood Doctor]

He could be running lean on the low-sped setscrew setting. That will often boost up the idle. Try opening the low-speed setscrew up a quarter turn. It should slow it down. If it doesn't, then the engine has an air leak somewhere.

 

[LittleLebowski]

I think that jakethesnake is right and I'm not hitting the setscrew. Yes, I am indeed on the right needle but there's no discernible change on the idling of the saw. It feels like my small flathead is on the setscrew, but like I said, no discernible change.

Also, I really appreciate you gents taking the time to help the lowly, idiot homeowner with this.

 

[LittleLebowski]

Ok, I had to take off the protective boot in order to get to the L screw. Then, I found that the L screw was so loose, it was nearly ready to fall out. I got it threaded back in and nearly all of the way turned down, then commenced to adjusting it and the idle screw. I now have the idle screw adjusted to just before the point where the saw will die and not idle at all. I cannot get the chain to stop turning completely but it turns so slow that one can stop it with gloved fingers. Thoughts?

http://s66.photobucket.com/user/bax...F-4D12-8B7A-9B5A4EC5E121_zpsd8rhdnmk.mp4.html

 

[Wood Doctor]

That sounds like weak clutch springs (if it's idling low and the chain keeps turning), or the inside of the clutch could be caked up with grime. Clean it out and take a look at the clutch springs. Only one has to be weak to cause this.

Also, be sure that the chain is snug to the bar (not real tight but snug). I think you are making good progress.

 

[Termitebuffet]

That sounds like weak clutch springs (if it's idling low and the chain keeps turning), or the inside of the clutch could be caked up with grime. Clean it out and take a look at the clutch springs. Only one has to be weak to cause this.

Also, be sure that the chain is snug to the bar (not real tight but snug). I think you are making good progress.

This^^^^^^ [emoji2]

Zoo City Sawz

 

[LittleLebowski]

What do I look for on the clutch springs?

 

[dbittle]

You might also get one of the small handheld wireless tachometers. It is a handy little thing to have around to check idle speed and max rpm. If its supposed to idle at 2800, its idling at 2800, and the chain is turning, then you can really take a hard look at the clutch. If its idling at 3200 and you can't slow it down, then something else is going on.

 

[Termitebuffet]

What do I look fit on the clutch springs?

They should be cheap ...just put them on [emoji2]

Zoo City Sawz

 

[CR888]

On a well used 'ex renter' saw, I'd be spending a little time taking the plastics off and checking small things like lube needle cage, fuel lines, clean spark screen, flush fuel tank, check clutch drum/sprocket wear, gaskets, secure all fasteners/check AV springs, clean spark plug, tune, inspect starter pawls, pull rope, remove muffler and check piston, do compression test etc. This will also just get you familiar with a new saw model and possibly prevent issues down the road. You could go further doing a press/vac test, measure ring end gap, clean and test carb but if its running well just going over the basics is a good idea.

 

[LittleLebowski]

They should be cheap ...just put them on [emoji2]

Zoo City Sawz

I've seen that some people buy them at Home Depot/Lowes, is this a possibility?

 

[LittleLebowski]

On a well used 'ex renter' saw, I'd be spending a little time taking the plastics off and checking small things like lube needle cage, fuel lines, clean spark screen, flush fuel tank, check clutch drum/sprocket wear, gaskets, secure all fasteners/check AV springs, clean spark plug, tune, inspect starter pawls, pull rope, remove muffler and check piston, do compression test etc. This will also just get you familiar with a new saw model and possibly prevent issues down the road. You could go further doing a press/vac test, measure ring end gap, clean and test carb but if its running well just going over the basics is a good idea.

You're assuming I know more than I know

 

[Rob Stafari]

I've seen that some people buy them at Home Depot/Lowes, is this a possibility?

You can probably order them through Home Depot, but at the ones near me it would be a pain and might have to wait longer than ordering from one of our outstanding members like Nate @fordf150 who knows the saws.

 

[Rob Stafari]

You're assuming I know more than I know

Time to learn my friend. Fortunately most of it's really not all too difficult and there's a couple things in his list that should become routine maintenance. If you don't have one yet, you're gonna need a long T-handle T27 torx. Order one online or pick one up in a set at your local Craftsman tool dealer if you have one. I believe I attached a manual for the dcs6401. Its the older model but most of the basics will be the same. Compressed air is your friend. Pull the covers and clean everything off real well, especially the cylinder fins and in the clutch and chain brake areas(page 28). Everything, including your saw, needs good regular cleaning to stay healthy. While the clutch drum is off you'll probably need to scrape some buildup from the inside that the air won't move. If that buildup hasn't been cleaned at dealer, it may take some extra effort to get the drum off, just make sure the chainbrake is disengaged when you go to remove it. Lube that needle bearing up well before reinstalling. Clean your guide bar grooves and oil holes while its off, the thinner sawzall blades work real well for this. Put it all back together, have fun, but most importantly... BE SAFE!

 

[CR888]

One of my best saw maintenance decisions was buying the Wiha hand tools chainsaw kit. About 10 top quality hand T-handle drivers that enable most of the basic saw stuff. A little fiddling, a bit of search/reading and asking a few questions will enable you to do many things.

 

[LittleLebowski]

So far, I hosed out the clutch with a can of non chlorinated brake cleaner, tons of gunk came out but no change in operation of the saw. I'll order new clutch springs and already have a new air filter coming. The saw runs perfectly otherwise, I really like it. Seems better for bucking given the power and reach.

 

[CR888]

Usually its worn/stretched clutch springs that turn a chain at idle, however a worn out clutch drum can do it too. Drums often get over looked as you see the outside of them and presume there fine however you should run your fingernail on the inside of the drum walls.to see if there's a lip or excessive wear. Drums last for many sprockets but are a wear item that needs periodic replacement.