jbolts
OPE Member
Have you got a source?I like using the real Tygon tubing (it'll say Dupont Tygon right on the tubing) seems to hold up really well
Have you got a source?I like using the real Tygon tubing (it'll say Dupont Tygon right on the tubing) seems to hold up really well
I had swapped out the boot with a farmertec.100% agree.
Yellow line will be fine but does harden up over time. Is the intake boot OEM? I had nothing but problems with the AM boots. I could see one heating up and leaking.
I had swapped out the boot with a farmertec.
I had a few on hand and I don't think any 2 of them were quite the same. Some were softer some were harder. I received tehm all at the same time! lol
That said the original boot seems fine so I put it back on.
I bought pieces on ebay a while back. Here's one of the loops I bought, I can't remember what exact size I used on the impulse line (you'd have to mic it to see as it's been a while since I did it), pretty sure it was this 3/16 ID line. This seller has many different sizes, I bought several to have for fixing ethanol-wrecked saws and trimmers.Have you got a source?
Just to be clear, the am boot didn't help but the saw was problematic even with the oem boot.Which has been the problem all along, run low on rubber, no problem, just add more plasticizers to make up for it. What is platic made from? Oil.
I would say closer to 1/8", 3/16" seems big.I bought pieces on ebay a while back. Here's one of the loops I bought, I can't remember what exact size I used on the impulse line (you'd have to mic it to see as it's been a while since I did it), pretty sure it was this 3/16 ID line. This seller has many different sizes, I bought several to have for fixing ethanol-wrecked saws and trimmers.
Make sure it is REAL Dupont Tygon. It'll be stamped on the tubing. There is lots of fake Tygon tubing out there. Real Tygon is pricey compared to the junk stuff. But it'll last.
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They have quite a few different sizesI would say closer to 1/8", 3/16" seems big.
Just measured ... as far as I can tell it's 2.5mm so closer to .100"
I think the 3/16" od tubing is 3/32" id so I think you had it rightThey have quite a few different sizes
seals for a 201 work just fineNow the bearing showing the thrust plate inside the assembley which goes towards the out side .The inner rides on a shoulder cut into the crank shaft .I've taken saws apart the rollers fell right out of the bearing .They say the seals from an 024 will work but I can't attest to that because all I've used were OEM.both seals and bearings .
I wouldn't say avoid them all together. I've built a 200 kit, subbing in a lot of OEM (most of the expensive stuff) and it's still going. Got another kit sitting, need a few parts. The kit fuel tank bolt holes don't line up with the kit crankcase holes. . .Just to be clear, the am boot didn't help but the saw was problematic even with the oem boot.
Also the Farmertec fuel line never sealed properly when installed on the tank either
In summary basically every aftermarket part I tried did not work.
If nothing else maybe this will be a refresher... lesson learned?
Avoid after market parts at all cost, don't even bother
Am or oem?I use 026 seals in all of my 020T/200T builds with no issues at all.
I've been getting them aftermarket with no issuesAm or oem?
Great to know.I've been getting them aftermarket with no issues