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Stihl 200T won't stay running

jbolts

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100% agree.

Yellow line will be fine but does harden up over time. Is the intake boot OEM? I had nothing but problems with the AM boots. I could see one heating up and leaking.
I had swapped out the boot with a farmertec.
I had a few on hand and I don't think any 2 of them were quite the same. Some were softer some were harder. I received tehm all at the same time! lol
That said the original boot seems fine so I put it back on.
 

Stump Shot

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I had swapped out the boot with a farmertec.
I had a few on hand and I don't think any 2 of them were quite the same. Some were softer some were harder. I received tehm all at the same time! lol
That said the original boot seems fine so I put it back on.

Which has been the problem all along, run low on rubber, no problem, just add more plasticizers to make up for it. What is platic made from? Oil.:confundio1:
 

Scotty Overkill

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Have you got a source?
I bought pieces on ebay a while back. Here's one of the loops I bought, I can't remember what exact size I used on the impulse line (you'd have to mic it to see as it's been a while since I did it), pretty sure it was this 3/16 ID line. This seller has many different sizes, I bought several to have for fixing ethanol-wrecked saws and trimmers.

Make sure it is REAL Dupont Tygon. It'll be stamped on the tubing. There is lots of fake Tygon tubing out there. Real Tygon is pricey compared to the junk stuff. But it'll last.

Screenshot_20230427-132955_eBay.jpg
 

Al Smith

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Keep in mind these little saws were born to be hot rods .That is if everything is working .If not they falter .I do have a crankshaft in my garage and old bearings .If there's an interest I can snap a picture showing the bearing with the thrust washer inside and the seal witness marks plus the build up of oily residue that eventually will take out the seals when the bearings gets worn out .I'm not certain if I kept any old seals .
 

jbolts

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Which has been the problem all along, run low on rubber, no problem, just add more plasticizers to make up for it. What is platic made from? Oil.:confundio1:
Just to be clear, the am boot didn't help but the saw was problematic even with the oem boot.

Also the Farmertec fuel line never sealed properly when installed on the tank either

In summary basically every aftermarket part I tried did not work.

If nothing else maybe this will be a refresher... lesson learned?

Avoid after market parts at all cost, don't even bother :mad:
 

jbolts

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I bought pieces on ebay a while back. Here's one of the loops I bought, I can't remember what exact size I used on the impulse line (you'd have to mic it to see as it's been a while since I did it), pretty sure it was this 3/16 ID line. This seller has many different sizes, I bought several to have for fixing ethanol-wrecked saws and trimmers.

Make sure it is REAL Dupont Tygon. It'll be stamped on the tubing. There is lots of fake Tygon tubing out there. Real Tygon is pricey compared to the junk stuff. But it'll last.

View attachment 375640
I would say closer to 1/8", 3/16" seems big.

Just measured ... as far as I can tell it's 2.5mm so closer to .100"
 

Al Smith

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Here is 200T cranks showing the marks from the seals and crud that wears out the seals
 

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Al Smith

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Now the bearing showing the thrust plate inside the assembley which goes towards the out side .The inner rides on a shoulder cut into the crank shaft .I've taken saws apart the rollers fell right out of the bearing .They say the seals from an 024 will work but I can't attest to that because all I've used were OEM.both seals and bearings .
 

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Al Smith

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I might add in a pinch you can clean the crud off the crank and just change the seals in order to keep running but they will wear out too in time .
 

telejed

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Now the bearing showing the thrust plate inside the assembley which goes towards the out side .The inner rides on a shoulder cut into the crank shaft .I've taken saws apart the rollers fell right out of the bearing .They say the seals from an 024 will work but I can't attest to that because all I've used were OEM.both seals and bearings .
seals for a 201 work just fine
 

telejed

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Just to be clear, the am boot didn't help but the saw was problematic even with the oem boot.

Also the Farmertec fuel line never sealed properly when installed on the tank either

In summary basically every aftermarket part I tried did not work.

If nothing else maybe this will be a refresher... lesson learned?

Avoid after market parts at all cost, don't even bother :mad:
I wouldn't say avoid them all together. I've built a 200 kit, subbing in a lot of OEM (most of the expensive stuff) and it's still going. Got another kit sitting, need a few parts. The kit fuel tank bolt holes don't line up with the kit crankcase holes. . .

Still in all, the kit, a carb, intake boot, bearings, seals, and a P&C, handle linkage, you can put one together for less than a new 201 and as far as I'm concerned have way more saw. 201 needs some expensive massaging to get it to 200 performance.
 

jbolts

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The 200T starts one pull no choke even after sitting
Pretty happy :D
My only other saw that starts no choke is one of my 357xps and even that one takes at least 2 pulls
 
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