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Stihl 200T won't stay running

jbolts

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Hi guys

I got a pretty good deal on a 200T... it fires up and runs ...the story is the pistion has been changed.

Compression is over 150 around 155.

Holds pressure and vaccum.

I epoxied the carb as per youtube for the issue and same symptoms.

Tested with a chinese carb from farmertec and same exact symptoms.

It fires up ... I get it to idle perfect, tune the high side runs idles perfect no issues.

After a few minutes when it warms up it won't hold idle anymore, bogs and eventually won't run at all.

thoughts?

If there are already any threads about this I couldn't find them, if anyone can point them out would really appreciate it

Thanks in advance.
 

Wonkydonkey

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I'm guessing you epoxied the accelerator pump up.

As for your bogging when warm and dies as well as won’t hold a tune.

I would guess, it’s old & hardened. crank seals, then when it warms they soften and leak. Or you have an air leak somewhere? It could even be a pin hole in the fuel line ?


I will ask if you rotated the crank while you did the p&v test.


Lone wolf is the guy who knows these saws inside out 😉

@Lone Wolf
 

Ketchup

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Seals might show on vacuum test. Possibly bad tank vent. I would get a brand new oem carb. They’re pretty cheap.
 

jbolts

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I tried a different fuel line (chinese) no change
I did not rotate the crank during pressure and vacuum test.
I just got an oem stihl carb along with oem fuel line oem filter and oem tank vent
And yes I epoxied the accelerator pump on the original oem carb
 

jbolts

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Seals might show on vacuum test. Possibly bad tank vent. I would get a brand new oem carb. They’re pretty cheap.
$120 is not the cheapest as far as carbs go.. granted it's Canadian but still. I did test the tank vent... I think i had to coax it into working iirc
 

Ketchup

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$120 is not the cheapest as far as carbs go.. granted it's Canadian but still. I did test the tank vent... I think i had to coax it into working iirc
I guess it’s all relative. They’re cheap compared to a 661 or 395 carb, a bit spendy compared to a 2511.
I think you’re on the right track with the OEM parts (though FT seals work just fine). I guess it’s possible your coil is dying, but seems less likely.
 

telejed

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Don't forget impulse line. . .

If pressure and vac check out the coils do eventually go bad. Usually not before something else leads to a catastrophic failure for most (people), but I've had a few bad ones.
 

jbolts

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Don't forget impulse line. . .

If pressure and vac check out the coils do eventually go bad. Usually not before something else leads to a catastrophic failure for most (people), but I've had a few bad ones.
I'm not ruling it out... but I have a feeling it will come down to the coil

What are the odds exact same symptoms with different carb.

Also I forgot to mention it but I did try a different spark plug as well.
 

jbolts

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Also the coil from stihl dealer is cheaper than the carb it's $100
 

Al Smith

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If it's the carb it could very well be the accerator pump version of the Zama C1 Q made in China after it was made in Japan .Although the company will not admit it they had a lot of problems with that one .A cure they say is blocking off the pump .You can Google it .
 

Wonkydonkey

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After sipping a few beers & and looking @the insides of my eyelids . I'd thought I’d Just add….

If I were to get a saw cheap, And was having problems tuning it. ( as it happens, my son got a ms170 given to him a month ago). He got it out of a garage he helped clear out after someone past away.
He tipped out the old fuel and put fresh in it. And still couldn’t start it. When he came to me I put a bit of fuel in the carb throat and it started 3rd pull 😉👍
It could have been the old fuel & varnish in the carb and thus not letting the pump seal/valves to work.

The stink of varnish from the exhaust was overwhelming. After it ran for a bit the tune went out. And seamed consistent with putting the saw from side to side. Although it could still be the carb ?

I said to my son, I’ve got some new crank seals at home (farmatec) it’s cheap insurance. Even thou it’s sat in a garage for yrs we don’t know what life it has had before. It be a shame if it went lean and seized !

In the meantime while waiting for him to come over (he wants me to show him how to change the seals) I’ve brought a aftermarket carb so have & we can Tune the high side. But also check that it’s not the carb causing the problem ? . A carb kit would probably do the job but swapping it over is easier.
So we probably change the seals and probably adv the timing a bit while the flywheel is off as well a muff modd 😉 , see how it runs then put the new AM carb on.

I just wish he,d come over sooner than he probably will 🤷‍♂️
 

Ketchup

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I'm not ruling it out... but I have a feeling it will come down to the coil

What are the odds exact same symptoms with different carb.

Also I forgot to mention it but I did try a different spark plug as well.
You’re right to think it’s not the carb since swapping it caused no change. BUT. You used an AM carb (which is suspect) to replace an old worn carb (which is suspect). Carbs frequently die on 200t. So yeah, it’s probably not the carb, but it still could be.

I would swap in your new parts and test. If it has the same problem I would double check the pressure/vac. If it aces the vacuum test, has new hoses, carb and vent, then you’ll probably need a new coil.
 

lehman live edge slab

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Hi guys

I got a pretty good deal on a 200T... it fires up and runs ...the story is the pistion has been changed.

Compression is over 150 around 155.

Holds pressure and vaccum.

I epoxied the carb as per youtube for the issue and same symptoms.

Tested with a chinese carb from farmertec and same exact symptoms.

It fires up ... I get it to idle perfect, tune the high side runs idles perfect no issues.

After a few minutes when it warms up it won't hold idle anymore, bogs and eventually won't run at all.

thoughts?

If there are already any threads about this I couldn't find them, if anyone can point them out would really appreciate it

Thanks in advance.
If it has Bakelite style oem crank seals I’d replace them with the small side 026 seals because I personally think they’re better with less chance of leaking when warmed up and temp changes ect. But just my opinion
 

Stump Shot

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Check the pto crank bearing, if out can test ok, then leak when ran.
Check spark with a tester that jumps a 5-6mm air gap and that should work out if your coil is good or not.
 

Scotty Overkill

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I'll add my .02 cents here....

Make sure you're using an OEM fuel filter. I tore down my one 034 to the bones dealing with an issue similar to yours only to find that the Chinese fuel filter (brand new, mind you) was completely blocked, i believe whatever filter material they use to manufacture them was reacting with the fuel....stay away from them and use OEM only).

Also when rebuilding a carburetor, stay away from the acetate (paper-thin plastic) fuel pump diaphragms and use the weaved, mesh-looking diaphragm. The acetate ones stretch pretty quickly (especially if there's high crankcase pressure/vacuun) in my experiences, I've had that very issue myself on one of my 200T's. Came down to being a fuel pump diaphragm. I think that's one of the biggest issues with the Chinese carburetors, that and weak adjustment screw springs.....
 

Stump Shot

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As Scotty mentioned, we went through a period of trying to repair these little saws on the cheap with AM parts. This ended up costing money in the long run, after going through failure after failure after failure. Even the air filters didn't fit quite right. These saws can hold their value and are worth putting the extra money into initially for genuine replacement parts.
Kind of reminds me of the old Midas Man commercial, pay me now, or pay me later...
 

jbolts

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Update:
Putting it back together as I write
Fuel filter was aftermarket... was about half the size of oem
Impulse line does not look original I'm replacing it with generic fuel line I got from the stihl dealer ... it's transparent yellow but it seems very kink proof.
I dremeled the impulse line passage out a bit bigger to prevent kinking
pressure tested the tank all's good there
I have a feeling the original carb will work now but I'll put on the new one just the same along with the new vent even though the old one seems fine
I'm guessing fuel filter or impulse line at this point... although I did try a different impulse line already
Thanks for all the input really appreciate it
 

jbolts

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All back together all's good! :D

Running as it should idle's punch is as it should be at wot

I suspect the fuel filter was the culprit

I didn't mind putting some money into it as these saws if in decent shape, guys are asking upwards of $700 and I've even seen them for 900

Thanks again and damn those chinese parts :mad:
 
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Ketchup

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If it has Bakelite style oem crank seals I’d replace them with the small side 026 seals because I personally think they’re better with less chance of leaking when warmed up and temp changes ect. But just my opinion
100% agree.
Update:
Putting it back together as I write
Fuel filter was aftermarket... was about half the size of oem
Impulse line does not look original I'm replacing it with generic fuel line I got from the stihl dealer ... it's transparent yellow but it seems very kink proof.
I dremeled the impulse line passage out a bit bigger to prevent kinking
pressure tested the tank all's good there
I have a feeling the original carb will work now but I'll put on the new one just the same along with the new vent even though the old one seems fine
I'm guessing fuel filter or impulse line at this point... although I did try a different impulse line already
Thanks for all the input really appreciate it
Yellow line will be fine but does harden up over time. Is the intake boot OEM? I had nothing but problems with the AM boots. I could see one heating up and leaking.
 
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