Stihl 064/066/288 Saw Build

[Brewz]

In my limited experience with ported saws, the low needs to be spot on, especially with a rich high side. Otherwise you get lots of odd issues returning to and just off idle.

Like you said once you find that sweet spot, it is lie pure bliss.

Great job on this build, turned out great.

Thanks mate.
Its wearing one of your deflectors as a 3rd port

I had a bit of a play with the tune after I re-seated the carb and boot and it is definitely less forgiving.
I would say Jay nailed it when he said the low end was a bit rich.
When I gave it more LA and had to richen up the idle to bring idle speed back down, it would run fine but if I held revs at about half throttle for a few seconds and let the trigger off, it would rich stall. It would thn take a bit of work to clear the flood and get it going again.

Jason's method of bugger all LA and a lean idle is the ticket.

 

[Brewz]

Brews..... Double check that your jug is sitting down all the way. These need some clearancing sometimes when you drop em a ways

It hit the case half way through the sanding process and the case was well ground and clearanced to stop it fowling.

 

[jmssaws]

When you start porting the hell out of one you loose the ability to hold a good tune,especially at idle.

It helps me to not use the la,it just changes the low setting so I never use it. You will need to tune them right on the edge of lean,i rarely have a 066 tune over 1 and 1.
If your low is more than 1 turn out then the la is turned in to much. Back it out till it ain't touching then set the low.

 

[Brewz]

Yeah its opened my eyes.
I think if anyone ever asked me to do one for them, I would be making sure they were well versed in tuning a saw.
They are not something you would take on unless you knew how to listen for issues or tune changes and adjust.

I have a little orange screwdriver in my pocket all the time when cutting these days.

 

[jmssaws]

You want to tune it only when it's hot,good way to check tune is when at a idle just bump the throttle and it should return to a constant rpm,if it slows then picks up its to fat.

Another thing is if it isn't cold natured it's to fat. If it's not at operating temperature everything you do adjusting the carb will be fat. It should start lean and richen as it warms up.

 

[Brewz]

Great advice.... thanks mate!

 

[jmssaws]

Yeah its opened my eyes.
I think if anyone ever asked me to do one for them, I would be making sure they were well versed in tuning a saw.
They are not something you would take on unless you knew how to listen for issues or tune changes and adjust.

I have a little orange screwdriver in my pocket all the time when cutting these days.

I always feel better when the person I'm building a saw for knows how to tune,I can tell a lot about how they keep one tuned and the condition of the saw just by checking where the low and high are.
I don't have to start to see what's up i just check how far out both sides are.

 

[Deets066]

I always feel better when the person I'm building a saw for knows how to tune,I can tell a lot about how they keep one tuned and the condition of the saw just by checking where the low and high are.
I don't have to start to see what's up i just check how far out both sides are.

I've seen some crazy carb settings!

3 on the low and 1/4 on the high......... What's wrong with my saw? Lol

 

[Brewz]

Yeah I have taken to checking screws as well.
I was given a saw that would not run properly.
Checked the carb screws and found 1.5 turns on L and 1/4 turn on H.
first thought was it was sucking air on the intake and needed all the air wet down with fuel so it would idle. So much so that it hardly needed any H

I changed the gasket on the intake behind the carb and the screws returned to 1 and 1 and it ran like a champ.

I will be spending some time tinkering with the tune of the ported saws to re-train myself

 

[Brewz]

I am kind of excited at learning about this.
I recon when I get the tune right it will run even better.
It was crackling rich at 13300, I might push it up closer to 14K and see how it pulls a 404 8 pin

 

[jmssaws]

Both needles should be about the same unless it's tuned for a cant race or the likes.

 

[jmssaws]

I am kind of excited at learning about this.
I recon when I get the tune right it will run even better.
It was crackling rich at 13300, I might push it up closer to 14K and see how it pulls a 404 8 pin

I only check rpm for a video.
Learn to not use the tach and just tune it where it's happy,it's pretty obvious where it wants to tune and then check it with a tach,you will be amazed at how close your ear can be if you listen for the right thing.

 

[Brewz]

I only check rpm for a video.
Learn to not use the tach and just tune it where it's happy,it's pretty obvious where it wants to tune and then check it with a tach,you will be amazed at how close your ear can be if you listen for the right thing.

Yeah I have been working on training myself to do this and can get a stock saw spot on, but its another ball game when you get them running at up to 15000 rpm.
They sound lean at 14000 but may well be quite rich enough to run all day

 

[paragonbuilder]

Yeah I have been working on training myself to do this and can get a stock saw spot on, but its another ball game when you get them running at up to 15000 rpm.
They sound lean at 14000 but may well be quite rich enough to run all day

Are you sure that if it sounds lean it's not? They definitely sound faster up at 15k, but I can always hear the 4-stroking if it wants to tune higher.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[jmssaws]

A 066 that tunes to 15k is a rare item.
Generally they quit in the 14.3 to 14.5 area.

A 026 at 15k sounds a hell of a lot different than a 90cc saw at 15k.
Most would never get one neer that.

 

[Brewz]

Are you sure that if it sounds lean it's not? They definitely sound faster up at 15k, but I can always hear the 4-stroking if it wants to tune higher.

My words were poor.

The high RPM makes them sound lean when you are used to listening to stock saws.
I need to train my ear to listen for the 4 stroking at much higher RPM.
The only way to learn this is to rev the piss out of ported saws....... what a shame

 

[Brewz]

A 066 that tunes to 15k is a rare item.
Generally they quit in the 14.3 to 14.5 area.

A 026 at 15k sounds a hell of a lot different than a 90cc saw at 15k.
Most would never get one neer that.

My 064 4 strokes at 14500 and goes lean over 15K
The 066 in this thread was running at 13300 in the video and will 4 stroke up to 14K. Im not interested in pushing it harder than that and will run it in the 13's for work.
My 026....... well that thing sounds like a jet engine but is 4 stroking in the 15's

 

[jmssaws]

This saw will tune past 15k

 

[Brewz]

Do you find they make better power at full 4 stroking RPM or with a bit more fuel running a touch slower?

 

[jmssaws]

Do you find they make better power at full 4 stroking RPM or with a bit more fuel running a touch slower?

Only time a richer tune would be faster is in a very long cut.
If you have two saws with the same exact power but one makes it 1k faster then it will clobber the other,that's what we are doing with porting,we're making more power but we're also if doing it correctly making that power at a higher rpm.

I hear the word tourqe a lot but tourqe Is a useless number honestly for a 2 stroke.
Hp is king of them,we're trying to gain chain speed and the only way to make a saw faster is to turn the chain faster.

I have a 056 mag11 sitting here and there "tourqe" saws but there also not very fast because they lack rpm,the 2100 sitting here is real strong but it's not fast even with a long bar they are behind these 064's and 066's. Hp is the combination of tourqe and rpm and that's what makes fast saws.