Stihl 064/066/288 Saw Build

[jmssaws]

I just realized the only thing I never checked was compression.

Bang on 180 psi cold after 30 seconds run time on the new ring.
That's an improvement on the 150 it used to blow and still easy to start without the decomp

Perfect

 

[Moparmyway]

It finished up at 99/123/82.5 with factory gasket and .020 squish.

It's going to go sooooo much better

Yup, I'd run her right there with those numbers

Bang on 180 psi cold after 30 seconds run time on the new ring.

Ring, as in singular ?

 

[Brewz]

Yep, running a Meteor 288 single ring piston.
I forked out for an OEM husky 288 piston bearing.
I dont want to do all that work and have the extra load of more power and RPM kill a cheap AM bearing.
I cant imagine the result would be good at 14000 RPM

 

[Brewz]

I did a bit of work on the piston windows, smoothing out the inside leading edges as well as making them a touch larger.

Before:



After:

 

[jmssaws]

You can lighten that piston a bunch,I use a hyway piston with a caber ring.
The hyway is much lighter,meteor is a good but very heavy and over built.

 

[Brewz]

You can lighten that piston a bunch,I use a hyway piston with a caber ring.
The hyway is much lighter,meteor is a good but very heavy and over built.

It will be fine.

I am not after huge RPM or megga snappiness. It will be a work saw so robust is good

 

[Brewz]

I would like to say thank you to everyone on this great forum, particularly those who have helped me, shared knowledge they didn't have to, been patient with my incessant questions on the board and behind the scenes (you know who you are )
I am so keen to learn this stuff, and I really appreciate every drop of advice!

But on this job and my 064, a big THANKS goes to @jmssaws for his drive and seemingly boundless enthusiasm for all things 1122.
Jay...... the work, knowledge, experience, research and amazing results that you share with us on here is what has enabled me to put this together.

Keep it up!

 

[jmssaws]

It will be fine.

I am not after huge RPM or megga snappiness. It will be a work saw so robust is good

Lighter not only makes more power but it is easier on the rotating assembly.
On a 2 stroke anything you can make lighter is better.
I've messed around a bunch with flywheel and clutch weights and with any length bar the lighter the better.
A 2 stroke is a hp engine more than tourqe. The saw that turns the chain fastest is what we want.

 

[Brewz]

Ok, that makes sense!

So where can weight be safely removed from the Meteor?

 

[jmssaws]

Ok, that makes sense!

So where can weight be safely removed from the Meteor?

Set it beside a oem piston And you will see,the pin bosses are huge

 

[Brewz]

Hahaha and I just got it back together

I will give it a bit of run time and then pull the piston and lighten it, or get a Hyway and see the difference

 

[Brewz]

Took it out and gave it a run today.
Tuned it fatish at 13300 rpm and sunk the Stihl RS 404 into some old dead dry hardwood.

Runs great, plenty of power and lets,me dog it in and lift the handle.

It does something odd when it comes out of the cut though.

Idle revs drop right down to the point where its almost stalling and it will run like this for about 30 seconds, then revs come back up.
It will then sit and idle happily, piss rev etc etc but when I load it up in a cut again, it comes back idling lower.
It sounds like a rich idle too.

I tried tuning it with no LA, some LA and lots of LA with a rich Smokey idle and it does the same thing.

Ideas?

 

[Brewz]

Thinking about it more, there is definitely something amiss because I remember thinking it didn't tune as nice or as easy as it did in stock form.

Its got to be sucking air on the intake somewhere and the leak stops when its hot after a loaded cut.

I think I will pull the carb and boot, check and re fit it all, see it it idles better.

 

[jmssaws]

It's just a little fat on the low side.
Back the la out till it's just touching then set the low just off lean.

 

[Brewz]

I tried that earlier but it still had trouble.

It ran great but felt off when trying to tune it.

I just took the carb and boot off, checked everything and put it back together.

It now tunes easily like it used to and took me no time to get that nice snappy response off idle that it didn't want to do before.

At first I thought...... Ahhhhh its just cause of the heavy piston

 

[Brewz]

I got a bit of a video of its first couple cuts.
2nd cut it went through the timber faster than expected and i did a bit of digging with the chain.

Good old 404, it didn't bother it at all and kept cutting just fine

 

[Brewz]

It's just a little fat on the low side.
Back the la out till it's just touching then set the low just off lean.

It seems to be less forgiving of a rich idle. Is this normal when you hot these things up.

When I tuned it this time I took your advice and when I hit that sweet spot I heard it. It sounded like your saws ha ha.
Kind if a cleaner sound, almost constant sound like a rotary going barp barp barp really fast.
Throttle lag almost disappears.

Love it

 

[Brewz]

 

[Red97]

It seems to be less forgiving of a rich idle. Is this normal when you hot these things up.

When I tuned it this time I took your advice and when I hit that sweet spot I heard it. It sounded like your saws ha ha.
Kind if a cleaner sound, almost constant sound like a rotary going barp barp barp really fast.
Throttle lag almost disappears.

Love it

In my limited experience with ported saws, the low needs to be spot on, especially with a rich high side. Otherwise you get lots of odd issues returning to and just off idle.

Like you said once you find that sweet spot, it is lie pure bliss.

Great job on this build, turned out great.

 

[Deets066]

Brews..... Double check that your jug is sitting down all the way. These need some clearancing sometimes when you drop em a ways